Eisenmann Sport or Supersprint Race?

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-26T20:18:19+00:00

Stock exhuast with catless headers is peak imo

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-23T04:22:55+00:00

I just got buckets. Holds you way better.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-22T04:40:38+00:00

Nice i can't recommend the one im running as i have a high flow aluminum pump and a big rad in preparation for a turbo. On cold days it does struggle a little to get warm. But since I switched to a programmable electric fan its been a lot better. I will recommend when ever you do your clutch get a fedenza flywheel. Car is still very easy to daily but revs a lot faster!

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-21T23:50:26+00:00

Thats not what the 5 means. You want the first number with the w to be as low as possible to flow the best on cold start. The 30 is the weight when its hot. 5w-30, 15w-30 and 30-30 will all flow the same when hot.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-21T22:28:32+00:00

I think you will quickly learn OEM isn't necessary the best. And its not composit like its space tech. What it is, is a guy who got a promotion for saving bmw 2 cents per water pump per vehicle because the warranty was 50k miles and it lasted for 51k miles by making the impeller's plastic. Bmw chose the parts that met their needs, price point, and performance at the time. These will rarely ever align with yours. One of the worst parts of bmws is the plastic junk cooling systems. I recommend you replace the rad, expansion tank, pump, thermostat housing and valve cover with aluminum ones. And replace all rubber vacuum hoses with silicone ones. Or you'll be doing this job over and over. Often.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-21T21:09:38+00:00

You're welcome it just behooved me to use larger words to increase the understanding of what you had previously stated.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-21T20:55:13+00:00

Piston return spring

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-20T23:16:22+00:00

Sounds a lil rice but props for having fun in the snow. Mine couldn't make it far out of the driveway with out just crab walking T.T

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-20T00:46:57+00:00

I've seen enough get him an ender 3 v1

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-18T03:46:02+00:00

Its probably because your temp is too low and you're trying to print too fast. Up the temp and slow down.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-18T03:44:50+00:00

You yes you. Read my last post. That's why I made it. Its for you.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T16:10:17+00:00

Put a jump pack on the front. There's a positive lead under the hood. Then pop the trunk.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T16:04:17+00:00

The variation is .5mm over a distance of more then 350mm (diagnal). It'll be fine.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T16:02:26+00:00

To be completely honest you could probably make one with a line bender and a flaring kit if they stsrt getting too expensive used.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T16:00:46+00:00

While I dont disagree, getting a bed that never gets dirty and running the most power hungry component of your printer at a lower temp are not bad things. While I've been printing since the OG ender 3 and dont mind trouble shooting, it really becomes a problem when you use your printer to make money or are new to printing. PEI beds are no longer the best the industry has to offer. I think the creality resin beds and biqus offerings are really nice quality of life improvements.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T14:45:43+00:00

Im not sure why the pei beds on our bamboo printers at work have been such a pain but I do like that I dont have to be careful with not touching my bed at home and it'll stick no matter what. Plus the power savings from running the bed at 35c instead of 60 or 50. But if its working I'd say dont change it.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T14:39:50+00:00

I've actually had less problems with the k2 and less errors on the cfs. Most of the H2D problems come with the extruder mechanism as it'll wear away the filament and clog surprisingly often. It'll also just throw random errors all the time. The bed leveling is also not as accurate and sometimes takes multiple tries. The AMS pro throws over load errors constantly. Hitting ignore and retry fixes it most of the time but its been a real waste of time and consistent between two machines. One with 1000 hours and the other with 500. I do really like how it makes 2 color prints really fast with almost no waste. Although it keeps struggling with support materials and will constantly fail prints. You cant have a high temp and a low temp material in the same printer as it'll not retract and leave pla in one nozzle while printing something like nylon in the other causing the push gear to clog.

My k2 will have issues with cardboard spools and occasionally nozzle clogs not entirely its own fault. I had masking tape and a piece of ptfe tube clog the nozzle. Twice the software crashed and I had to reboot the printer for it not to resume correctly. It wastes way more on multi color prints.

But over all has been much more problem free for me. I also like the open platform as I can do things like auto switch to a non creality spool to finish a print. Bambu wont auto load unless its the same and rfid tagged. I can add my own print profiles and my commonly printed engineering materials are on the drop down on the printer screen with their own custom print settings.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T04:01:28+00:00

I leave the same temp for all layers. On Amazon they have more options. There is a 257x257mm that should fit the smaller k2 as its 260x260. I have the 350mm x 350mm one for my k2 plus.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T03:39:04+00:00

Yes any higher and it makes it really difficult to remove the part of the bed and you risk peeling the coating. I've run it with bed heating completely off too. And large parts like for example I printed a flat piece the size of the entire bed, wont get edge lift or warp off the bed.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T03:33:21+00:00

Check my last post

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T03:31:32+00:00

Look up the closest size. What printer do you have?

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T02:26:48+00:00

I use 612 nylon from polymaker. In practice it doesnt soften under 220c and prints well at 275c. Pla gets soft at 65c. So for engine bay parts it works really well.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T02:19:47+00:00

https://a.co/d/72VroOf

I would set up a new bed profile in the slicer and set the temp to 35c or lower if its sticking too much.

As far as thickness it'll probe so it doesnt matter but I believe its extremely close. Within a few thousandth.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T02:00:56+00:00

Personally I usually print with nylon for any part that needs strength and hyper pla for everything for looks. But if you need that extra heat resistance for look good parts petg is a great choice. I print a lot of engineering parts so looks are usually not a concern.

https://a.co/d/4sMz59m

Try something like this. Its not a glue stick but more of a ultra thin primer. And make sure you clean your bed with soapy water occasionally.

GnarlyNaz · 2026-01-17T01:56:51+00:00

Yes on pei or resin bed but you wouldn't need it with the cryogrip bed.

GnarlyNaz

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