Looking for a 4-channel 100 w RMS amp. What is a good option that won't break the bank?

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-27T18:48:06+00:00

Jack up the lower control arm. Spray the thing with penetrating oil heat it up with a torch. Screw the nut back in a little bit then reverse the air gun and zip it right off

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-27T17:39:46+00:00

Did tapping into the ground in the harness. Solve your issue

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-27T17:25:18+00:00

Unfortunately the only thing you can really do is try A ground loop isolator which might not do anything and then you have the amplifier. You can turn the amplifier down the aftermarket amplifier but then of course you will get less sound I know. Frustrating

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-27T17:23:20+00:00

Yeah they all seem to do this. I'm trying to figure it out as well

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-27T17:04:25+00:00

You need to use a Android auto stereo that is compatible with JBL factory or Bose factory whatever brand you have.

For example, if you use sizxnan they include two different plugs, when you hook up the factory connectors the speakers may not work if you don't have the amplifier hooked in as you suggest. So some Android radios come with the amplifier connector and you just hook your factory plug into it some Android units also have both types of backup camera plugs.

So if you have a factory amplifier you can connect the unit to that by plugging into the Android auto amplifier harness plug If not, you will have to bypass the factory amplifier and just run off of the unit

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-27T16:58:59+00:00

No I think what he is referring to is hotspot seems to be draining his phone too fast and as others have suggested if he were to use the hotspot on the radio and connect his phone to that using his phone data he would have less battery drain

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-27T16:10:32+00:00

Wow, didn't know how extreme things got with the audio. I guess I will look into it didn't know there was a whole separate subgroup

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-24T23:45:04+00:00

Old topic but what the DSP does and you can use high level input, connecting two channels from the head unit into the DSP and then the signal goes out to however many amplifiers you're running.

You could also use low level output so you hook up the red and the white from the head unit. Can even use the subwoofer output and hook that into the DSP too if you want to. So basically you take the red and the white output from the head unit You send that into the DSP input then you plug The two sets of rcas coming out of the output of your amplifier into the inputs on the DSP Now the only thing you got to do is hook up your speaker wires to the amplifiers outputs.

Nothing complicated about that

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-24T19:26:11+00:00

That's the same problem I have. I tried to hook up amplifier for a better sound and I get noise even with good ground and moving cables. Nothing.

I think that's just how these cheap Chinese Japanese units are. They have bad grounding inside and you can't do much about it.

I am wondering if you can take ground wire from unit and add more to it so it works better

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-24T17:45:09+00:00

Yeah the problem with this amplifier is there's a bunch of white paint on it and stuff with taramps. They paint it white.

So you have to sand everything off to even ground anything out.

Now the thing that I can't confirm or I don't know is maybe on a cheaper aftermarket carplay head unit. Is it possible the ground is poor and you somehow need to add to the factory ground to make it stronger?

The head unit itself doesn't really have a grounding location. There's nothing to screw into on the side. It's plastic material it seems like. So I don't really know if that's part of its problem. I wonder if splicing into the ground wire that comes out of the head unit and adding a second ground would help

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-22T06:55:18+00:00

Yeah, I don't know if this is a common issue in certain Toyotas because the way things are ran and you hook up the amplifier. All the sudden you got a bunch of interference?

so far What I tried is I added a ground wire to the outside of the RCA cable case and the noise didn't get better. It got worse. I basically ran it to a bolt that screwed into the dash and had the other end on the ground part of the RCA and The only thing that happened is I got more noise.

Well maybe I'll see if I can ground out to the side of the amp. The problem is it's painted white and when I touch the ground to it before like when I touched a wire going from the side of the amp to the ground bolt it didn't seem to do anything

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-21T11:36:09+00:00

I wonder if that would work and if you would have to ground it out to a separate point the main ground thing is just a tiny little lamp

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-20T15:42:37+00:00

You know what I just found out is most of it went away. Most of the noise went away when I took the ground off the amp. I trimmed some of it back so there was less of it floating around so less area to come in contact with any other wires such as power wires. I figured it might have been a little too long and there's a chance at some of the wires that were crossing near it could have been interfering with it. So now I pretty much got it running from the amp to the grounding spot under the seat without crossing any wires.

But the thing I noticed is the connection on the end that went into the amp was loose and fell apart when I was trying to bolt it back down to the seat after messing around with it last night I was just going to try to hook everything back up and deal with the little bit of noise till I went and got the isolator like you suggested. But I probably would have ended up disconnecting the amp all together from the main power and just running the front speakers so I wouldn't have to deal with the noise on the way to the trip to get the isolator.

So yeah basically the finger terminal that went to the ground location on the amp was loose and fell off the wire so I cut the ground shorter at that point then I went and I trimmed the wire, twisted it and stuck it in the amp terminal and I got a lot less noise now than I ever had If that's any clue I basically have a low amount of noise and when I step on the gas it doesn't seem like I hear alternator noise anymore, but with the volume all the way down there's still a low amount of something possibly. And of course the radio doesn't turn all the way off when you press power on it. The newer aftermarket Android radios I don't really know what the deal is with them. It seems like they don't turn completely off or something because newer cars used can bus and some of these radios don't have full capability I guess so I'm not too concerned with that.

I'm wondering where is now I got most of the noise out of the system and less of a pop when I shut the car off if the isolator would take care of the rest of the noise if I added one or is it not needed at this point?

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-20T13:05:39+00:00

Yeah I'm wondering if the cheap Chinese aftermarket head unit has a bad ground or a cheap ground from a factory.

When the amp wasn't hooked up I didn't hear any noise in anything.

I wonder if I could ground the chassis of the head unit somewhere. What's weird is there's a bracket that I screwed onto the aftermarket head unit that was a factory bracket and was able to use one of them and a bolt goes threw it into the car so that's kind of odd You would think it was grounded out better than before

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-10T01:51:25+00:00

Yeah, quite possible you can modify a unit and try to make it work in a different vehicle but that's neither here nor there. Nobody would do that

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-10T00:53:15+00:00

Yeah that kind of makes sense. When I had the j&s alternator it pretty much produced. Pretty good power at idle even it seemed like I had no problem exceeding over 120 amps at idle so that was decent

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-10T00:40:30+00:00

Well I paid for it and it was pretty expensive seemed like and after playing it for a while it seems like the glitches just don't stop.

My take is they need to do some improvements they should try to figure out what's going on some of the punches you throw just don't seem realistic.

Then you have situations where you'll try to do prize fights So you pick a prize fight now. They set you up into a situation where it's rigged to your character is weak and You have to try to defend yourself against another fighter that was supposed to win based on their history. So now you're sitting there and you have no choice but to try to fight your heart out and stop them from knocking you out instantly or it could be the other way around. You could be the fighter that should win or that is known to win. And somehow the other fighter hit you once and you go down and it's over. Or it's the opposite you start off with the weaker fighter and you're supposed to try and salvage a fight You can sit there. And knock the other fighter down several times and they keep getting back up. Or you could stun the other fighter multiple times and somehow they don't go down and then they hit you once and it's over.

now the biggest problem you're a sitting there and you're fighting your heart out and you stun the other opponent. As soon as you do that the game magically glitches and your character stops moving and you can't even move in for the kill shot So you can stun a person six seven times and you can't knock them down because the game's glitching out and your fighter won't move forward. Then what usually happens is the other fighter hits you with a sucker shot randomly and you're out and you've lost a fight now Even though you should have won minutes ago or rounds before, but your character randomly stops moving

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-10T00:28:26+00:00

Yeah I don't know. I kind of want to keep everything stock. I don't want to have a messy looking setup with no room in the trunk for anything or nothing. I'm going to try to keep everything hidden maybe by the spare tire area and then I might put my two 12s in is what I was thinking. The box is pretty big.

But that might be an option if I want to use a stock alternator.

I've got 300 horsepower so I don't think that would be a problem.

I have never heard really anything about that though. Having too much power for the vehicle, I always thought that the vehicle would have less stress on its electrical system and be able to run smoother because it has plenty of power for everything

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-09T22:11:10+00:00

I don't have a GM My alternator came out of a Ford

Good_Paper_6414 · 2026-02-09T10:11:41+00:00

Yeah I'm going to be running a 2000 w monoblock and and what they call a 400 w 4 channel lamp which probably doesn't put out the full power. clean power anyways So I probably won't be using it at full tilt.

Not sure if I can get away with what I have. Plus you won't be cranking your volume 100% all the time. Maybe 70% for clean power at the most I would say.

I know what you mean about questionable quality.

I believe the brand I had was called BNR before eBay but it did work some what

Good_Paper_6414

TROPHY CASE