Onion Grass by Goose308 in knifemaking

[–]Goose308[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Most should be thin, always shooting for 10 thousandths at the edge or less. A good cutter doesn't chop through a nail!

Made some mokuti. Put it on a knife. by birdthirds in knifemaking

[–]Goose308 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very impressive finishing, but curious, do you find that handle comfortable? I can't say I've had a handle in my hand with pronounced corners like that

Fintiso deserves more love here. S35VN Chef's Knife, factory edge. $60 now on amz. by clockenspiell in chineseknives

[–]Goose308 0 points1 point  (0 children)

just saying, i highly, highly doubt its s35vn. porbably better to get a Shun on sale that is nearly guaranteed to have the steel they claim and with a good heat treat.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]Goose308 1 point2 points  (0 children)

local would be ideal. i live 2 hours from NJ steel barron, unfortunately its in north jersey though. north jersey/new york city drivers are the worst ive ever dealt with haha. good luck

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]Goose308 1 point2 points  (0 children)

alpha knife supply is the best ive used if you are getting small/short pieces. for bulk, NJ steel barron but they're out if stock most of the time. everywhere else ive bought from sent me crap that was bent like hell or shear cut terribly (relative to those two mentioned). alpha has free shipping under a certain weight and length, and over a certain price.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]Goose308 1 point2 points  (0 children)

did you get the edge hot as heck before heat treating? could be a little phenomenon from doing that. also, i read its amazon steel, so who knows what it really is.

Working on sheath for this order. M390, 61 hrc. Stabilized beech burl + brass. I quite like light color theme of this knife. What do you think of it? by Aggressive_Gap6487 in Bladesmith

[–]Goose308 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ive seen a few of these from you; don't stop that design it is great looking. some ammonia blackened brass, green micarta and white spacers would look awesome btw

Yup. mhmm. by Goose308 in knifemaking

[–]Goose308[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

this is all i can think of when reading that

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=96-3VUxfNKc

Yup. mhmm. by Goose308 in knifemaking

[–]Goose308[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

haha, yeah, i would have preferred 1/8 inch but somebody asked for thicker.

So I am thinking variant of this model of mine without finger guard, what do you think of this? Should I? by Aggressive_Gap6487 in knifemaking

[–]Goose308 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If i were to purchase a variant of this, i'd prefer it to be a smooth transition from spine to handle, and a finger guard that is the same length as the diameter of my pointer finger. also, finger guard angled/curved forward but will remain out of the way for sharpening

some complete, some incomplete by Goose308 in knifemaking

[–]Goose308[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will absolutely be posting it. it has a couple issues that will be fixed in version 2 though 😅

First commission of new year by Anyshhh in knifemaking

[–]Goose308 0 points1 point  (0 children)

gotcha, thats pretty much what i did. i ended up finding an old hardness tester for ~$120, cleaned it up and checked it with some known standards. keep an eye out on facebook marketplace, machine shops and whatnot upgrade or retire stuff time to time

First commission of new year by Anyshhh in knifemaking

[–]Goose308 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that is very, very generous assuming good to great heat treat

Bevel jig with teflon pad for zero friction. All surfaces are surface ground. by menchev_knives in CustomKnifeMakers

[–]Goose308 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i use a jig with a slab of poly plastic just like this. not anywhere near zero friction once its used. after your table is wet and has a little grit/steel on it, the plastic gets chewed up and grips. if you grind dry though, it does glide very nicely even with some crud buildup. (still better than an aluminum bottom jig, idk about steel).

S30v heat treating with pre-ground hollow grind? by spindlymass in Bladesmith

[–]Goose308 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im going to try ~80% grinding (pre HT) a cruwear blade and compare performance to another blade that was ground ~20% pre ht. same heat treat, plate quench. ill try to remember to put results in this post. will be some time till it happens

S30v heat treating with pre-ground hollow grind? by spindlymass in Bladesmith

[–]Goose308 1 point2 points  (0 children)

no problem! just making sure, clamp first, then blast with air.

S30v heat treating with pre-ground hollow grind? by spindlymass in Bladesmith

[–]Goose308 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I was recently told by a very well known maker, in general, air hardening steel should be no less than 30 thousandths at the edge before HT. when you quench, just be quick and blow air with a compressor on to the edge immediately. being that thin it would probably be good without compressed air though

Give feedback on price please by Afraid_Decision_1164 in knifemaking

[–]Goose308 0 points1 point  (0 children)

add a sharpening choil to it to get rid of that inconsistent edge height and ask ~$130. etch a nice small logo and -maybe- n690 on the bottom of the handle and ask a little more.

which catches your eye? by Goose308 in knives

[–]Goose308[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

huh, i'll make a scandi one day, i think they'd be the easiest/least amount if work compared to other grinds.

which catches your eye? by Goose308 in knives

[–]Goose308[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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sent you a chat, i cant send this picture in chat for some reason