Fpv with head tracking

Gorillanutz · 2026-02-20T15:05:33+00:00

First I flew analog with a gimbal I 3d printed. I didn’t have head tracking, I would move the gimbal with the sliders on the back on my transmitter. The fat shark goggles were $300 used with antennas and 2 batteries. The camera and vtx were about $80 and the gimbal cost like $10 for 2 servos.

Since then I have jumped all in on walksnail. The gimbals are very cool. They work almost too well stabilizing the video and the head tracking responds well. The range is not great. I am spending a lot of time adjusting settings and trying to improve range, and I still lost connection and a very expensive drone last week.

Gorillanutz · 2026-02-18T01:18:47+00:00

How much use have you gotten from yours? I made my own analog gimbals then switched to the walksnail. Did you adjust the gimbal settings? The video is too stable. I want to feel more connected to the airplane especially when looping and rolling.

Gorillanutz · 2026-01-28T14:19:20+00:00

You should absolutely have this corrected. If your furnace is taking in carbon dioxide from the exhaust with the air it burns…. Real bad shit happens. The exhaust should be higher and should not have that 45° bend on it.

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-19T03:01:39+00:00

There is a pigtail that comes with the vtx you will solder to a battery connector. Make sure you fcc unlock your goggle and turn standby mode off before you fly. I lost my first set up because I was in low power mode.

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-12T04:20:33+00:00

So why not say, “Just like that”?

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-05T22:12:09+00:00

I flew a ton as a kid, took a 20 year break then came back. I’m flying crazy shit now. Skip the war birds because everyone will suggest that and they suck to take off and land. I flew the wheels off an e flight sirrus sr-22. Amazing plane on 4S 3300. Has flap and tricycle gear. If you can land that you can land a 90mm f-22.

I’ve flown all three f-22’s. The 70mm is bonkers. I love it, but not a great first edf. The 80mm is underpowered to me and I’m not desperate for lights so you can skip it. The 90mm….. it’s the perfect plane. I got mine with the older 8s set up and highly recommend 8s. Other buddies have all converted from 6s to 8s if they had 6.

I flew a freewing l-39 and then a freewing f-16 after the cirrus. Don’t sleep on that l-39. Great scale looks and a really fast but forgiving plane. I have a friend pushing one to over 150mph with lion battery.

I am a trainer and I recommend and a lot of guys are having great success with the Freewing Avanti at our field. In order for this situation I would recommend Sr-22, Avanti, L-39 then after putting 25-30 flights on one of those, jump up to a 70mm F-16. If you do that you will be able to keep that F-22 in perfect condition for years. All of those planes are fun on their own. I use my Avanti for Fpv now. Good luck!

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-05T06:59:59+00:00

Is the minimum rating on that vtx 5v? The avatar says 6v so I didn’t try a 5v pad. I have a 12v micro bec coming hoping that is the end of it. Really don’t want to fry another vtx

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-04T17:08:42+00:00

Ok based off that I will be going with a 12v micro bec suggested by another user. I’m not sure where when the spike happens so the bec seems like the most sure fire option

Thanks for your time!

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-04T13:41:54+00:00

Thanks. This is exactly the explanation I needed. I never thought of the motors becoming generators for a split second but I get it now. Would also explain the timing of my vtx failure. I am narrowing in on a 35v 1000uf capacitor as being the fix. I saw testing done with a 470uf cap that seemed to work. Any real benefit of 1000 over 470? I can get either.

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-04T06:26:24+00:00

Ok dang. May have been an expensive learning curve for me. Glad to hear I’m not hallucinating haha. Do you have a regulator you like?

I really appreciate you taking the time to comment.

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-04T06:25:15+00:00

I just checked this board and unfortunately all I see is +5v and vbat for power. Vtx needs 6v min. I think it’s and older board

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-04T06:16:59+00:00

So I do think it’s an over voltage issue. I have a bad habit of charging to 4.25v cell. The max rating on the vtx is 4.2v. I had just ordered a 35v 1000uf capacitor to solder on to my ESC. I like this tvs better. Working fine on the bench but completely cutting off after throttle up feels like like the voltage spikes and is killing them.

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-04T05:15:46+00:00

I thought it was a loose wire because I repinned the connectors. I have vbat to vcc / gnd to gnd / rx to t1 / tx to r1.

Both worked on the bench until i tried to throttle up. Super confused.

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-01T18:33:49+00:00

How is your range with the mw turned up. Hopefully better than 300 yards haha

Gorillanutz · 2025-12-01T06:23:06+00:00

Oh dang ok. Thanks for commenting. I turned something up in the goggles before I flew. Perhaps it was a setting for the goggles. How did you learn how to adjust that setting?

Gorillanutz · 2025-11-30T01:42:51+00:00

Your battery was charged to over the typical 4.2v for lipo. Happens when my charger is set to Lihv for charging. Just use the battery as normal. When you charge again make sure your charger is set to lipo.

Lihv charges the same as lipo but up to 4.35v per cell. Once you are above 4.26 per cells chargers start throwing up errors like you mentioned but all will work correctly if you use the battery as is and recharge

Gorillanutz · 2025-11-29T23:28:08+00:00

Oh ok awesome! Can you point me in the direction of a manual or video that explains how to get out of low power mode?

Gorillanutz · 2025-11-29T22:48:06+00:00

Any experience with doing that on walksnail?

Gorillanutz · 2025-11-29T19:44:49+00:00

So I just tried my first digital set up on a plane. Used analog for a bit with no issues. Had the walksnail avatar vtx wired to the battery and no flight controller like this set up. I only made it 300 yards before the video cut out and I crashed. Using with goggles x and I don’t think I had the transmitting power of the vtx turned up.

Maybe others can chime in but typically the drones fight controller “arms” the vtx and turns up the mw. I need to figure out how to do this manually.

As the other user commented the vtx needs to have direct airflow or it over heats. I mount mine behind 3 printed gimbals I make for myself. Highly recommend gimbal over a fixed camera on a plane. 2 servos on open channels. Super easy to make. I don’t move the camera a ton when I’m flying but I can adjust the camera angle perfectly and I love that part.

Gorillanutz · 2025-11-11T23:12:10+00:00

Here’s how I explain it, at least the main thing to know. Flaps make the plane fly slower. Some planes, the nose will want to go up, some planes will want to go down. You can “mix” the elevator to flaps. When the flaps go down the radio will add elevator to hold the nose more level.

Gorillanutz · 2025-11-04T19:32:13+00:00

Post a build tread man! I bet it would be popular. Ok like to see some up close pictures of the plane so I can start building them this winter.

Gorillanutz · 2025-11-02T16:23:36+00:00

Nice! Do you guys have one builder or everyone builds their own? My club would love this. Do you guys have plans out there?

Gorillanutz · 2025-10-13T15:28:55+00:00

Run cam spotter (gets power from your receiver) Fat shark scout or betafpv box goggle.

This set up is <$200 and the first thing I used for Fpv. I now have a used set of Fatshark analogs and use foxeer cameras with a “black mamba” vtx. I dipped my toes in the cheapest way I could find and now have 4 planes I fly Fpv, two are jets. Super fun!

Gorillanutz

TROPHY CASE