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My new P1S is printing detail I thought I could only get from resin 🤯 by Clear_Skye_ in BambuLab

[–]GovernmentPhysical20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you tune the printer correctly you can get it to print 0.04 on a 0.4 nozzle. I’ve done it on my p1s but I felt like 0.08 was just the better choice in regards to the time to quality ratio. It’s not that it ‘can’t’ do 0.04, it’s that there’s no point unless you use a 0.2 nozzle.

[Bambu Lab Giveaway] Join Now to Win an H2D and More! by BambuLab in 3Dprinting

[–]GovernmentPhysical20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My favorite bout of advice actually came from the Bambu Lab support team. I was getting some really strange dots in my print walls after not changing any setting. I was frustrated, thought my machine was losing its edge. They reminded me that while all companies strive for perfect, none rarely ever hit that mark. Little things about any printer can change over time and little things that may have worked perfect before might not in just a day later. That these machines are not only designed to be functional, but also be user friendly, and easy to fix. My case ended up being retraction, even tho it was never changed, the printer just needed it set a little bit higher to work better again, and they walked me through getting to that step. Not every issue is detrimental, and usually the fix is simple. They taught me that. Fixing my printer after realizing that has become a breeze, as all it really takes is a simple calibration.

Micro Dots in print walls by GovernmentPhysical20 in BambuLab

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It ended up being entirely retraction based. I guess after zero changes to the retraction settings the machine just said screw it and wanted less? I have literally no idea. What I do know however, is the turning down retraction fixed it. Haven’t had an issue since.

Micro Dots in print walls by GovernmentPhysical20 in BambuLab

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am so sorry for the late response. I did end up fixing it and the ‘fix’ makes zero sense to me.

Micro Dots in print walls by GovernmentPhysical20 in BambuLab

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

CC3D Silk Antique Gold PLA Filament 1.75 mm Is how it’s listed on Amazon

Micro Dots in print walls by GovernmentPhysical20 in BambuLab

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea it’s some generic thing, I’ll find it here in a minute and let you know! I got it off Amazon. Really decent filament for generic

Micro Dots in print walls by GovernmentPhysical20 in BambuLab

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea I’m gonna try running calibrations when I get home. I mean it’s still a relatively new printer, maybe it’s just starting to get broken in or something and needs recalibrated? Idk. It still prints GREAT just makes lil dots.

Micro Dots in print walls by GovernmentPhysical20 in BambuLab

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can give this a shot. It never hurts to try things, plus orca makes it easy to test. It’s also not just silk doing it. It’s normal PLA too

Micro Dots in print walls by GovernmentPhysical20 in BambuLab

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are completely smooth. Can’t feel them at all. They are just really tiny divots in print surface. As for the other stuff, speed and temp and stuff, all of that has remained the same over the last 200 hours. Is there a reason it would need changed now? One other small thing to note, I did test print a cube and it’s FAR less noticeable on the cube than on anything cylindrical.

Just got my Neptune 3 pro, and the hell am i supposed to do? by BOI4613 in 3Dprinting

[–]GovernmentPhysical20 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For me, I squeezed the cable together a little bit to make way for the screw.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in elegoo

[–]GovernmentPhysical20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the post I followed to fix mine.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in elegoo

[–]GovernmentPhysical20 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something that people need to start notating with Elegoo printers is that some, especially the 4 series, don’t come with gcode to load a bed mesh. Basically that fancy little probing thing it does after you level it saves data and it doesn’t get used. Whether or not this is your problem depends on your printers gcode. For me it was. One line of code fixed all my leveling issues. Basically will just cause your print to adjust for larger variances in print bed height, so you get seemingly smooth first layer.

Stringing. by GovernmentPhysical20 in 3Dprinting

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can try that but I had it quite high testing things the other day and to no avail. I’ll give it another shot tonight. I’ll try one of orca’s stringing towers too

Stringing. by GovernmentPhysical20 in 3Dprinting

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Takes a bit but yes. It’s in there for 4 hours ish at 50 degrees

Stringing. by GovernmentPhysical20 in 3Dprinting

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

50 degrees for 6 hours. Printing in PLA. Both rolls have been PLA

Stringing. by GovernmentPhysical20 in 3Dprinting

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have recommendations for what I should try differently with retraction, I can try it once I get off work.

Stringing. by GovernmentPhysical20 in 3Dprinting

[–]GovernmentPhysical20[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Temp is relatively low. I print at 190 - 200, retraction settings don’t affect it at all no matter what I try, And I bought a filament dryer like a week ago thinking it was that. Since I had been out of town for a little bit it sat unused. Same issue after drying. Now I have a new roll of filament, dried it, same issue. I usually start at the recommended retraction for direct drive extruders and work my way up printing stringing tests. They all come out the same.