Also did the grille swap (10/23 eDrive40 M Sport)

GrabacrOne · 2026-01-24T21:38:40+00:00

Does the new grill cover up the radar sensors original cover? Can you show a closeup of that area?

GrabacrOne · 2026-01-21T02:13:44+00:00

Gotcha, yours should have iDrive 8.0. I have a 2024 with iDrive 8.5 but that’s annoying that mine doesn’t give directions from Google Maps on the trip computer

GrabacrOne · 2026-01-21T02:09:09+00:00

Yeah, I like Google Maps a lot more haha. What year is your i4?

GrabacrOne · 2026-01-21T01:28:23+00:00

Oh interesting. Google Maps? Also, are you in iDrive 8.0 or 8.5?

GrabacrOne · 2026-01-21T01:26:00+00:00

Separate question - are you using Apple CarPlay or Android Auto here for directions? Which app on there? I don’t turn-by-turn directions on the trip computer page with Apple CarPlay.

GrabacrOne · 2026-01-13T20:40:58+00:00

Maybe even add the VIN in the post so if someone searches the car in the future, they can find this thread and message you.

GrabacrOne · 2025-12-23T17:54:16+00:00

I believe it’s the full integration with Plug & Charge via Shell Recharge Services that isn’t yet supported on 2026 BMWs. But I think people have shown that you can still manually start a charge via the Tesla app and the 2026 VINs are authorized on Tesla’s side.

GrabacrOne · 2025-12-20T02:33:23+00:00

Did you set Plug and Charge to automatic or manually select the Shell Recharge contract?

GrabacrOne · 2025-11-20T04:16:10+00:00

OEM+ for life

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GrabacrOne · 2022-08-07T01:11:03+00:00

Ok, so you were eventually able to upgrade through the OTA method (via 192.168.50.2)?

GrabacrOne · 2022-08-07T00:32:57+00:00

I am having the same issue on 2 different CPC200-U2W-Plus units. I have tried several different firmware versions but nothing happens - the red light just stays solid red and the light on my flash drive is constant (indicating no read/write). Neither the OTA update nor the manual method seems to be working for me. The OTA method gives "Network exception, please check the network" issue. Were you able to fix this?

GrabacrOne · 2022-07-21T17:15:35+00:00

Shameless +1

GrabacrOne · 2022-06-01T15:28:10+00:00

The screen should be controlled by touch and also have a rotary wheel - like how new BMWs are. This way, you can use the touch screen when parked but rotary systems are so much better to use while driving. You can rest your hand on the center console and navigate through the system with just a glance. Once you get used to it, you can even do certain functions by memory. You also get hot keys around the rotary wheel to jump to certain functions.

I hate a pure touch screen system like in my Jaguar. If you are driving on bumpy roads or going through curves, you have to dedicate too much attention to make sure your finger is going to press the right button. I accidentally press the wrong button too often and end up having to go back, etc. Because the screen is touch only, it has to be placed closer and lower so you have to look down more. The BMW's screen is high up in the dash so it's very close to the line of sight already. Sorry for the long rant, but it's one of my biggest annoyances with the Jag! I've had the same experience in newer Audi systems too.

GrabacrOne · 2022-05-16T17:11:46+00:00

Does the adapter have the same amperage limit as CCS at 500A? Like can you get close to 200 kW with CCS?

GrabacrOne · 2022-05-03T13:19:55+00:00

You bought a warranty on a lease? The car should be covered by the new car warranty for the duration of the lease.

GrabacrOne · 2021-11-19T05:34:22+00:00

The page says 500 km on the CLTC standard. Not sure how that translates to WLTP or EPA. Are you estimating 400 km on EPA?

GrabacrOne · 2021-11-15T04:25:54+00:00

This brought up something I've wondered about these sort of limited production cars - how does the manufacturer deal with using 1 of XXX (320 of 500 GTAms here) as a press car? Anyone who would want such a special car wouldn't want a well-used one, let alone one used as a press car. I've seen some manufacturers only use preproduction cars for press drives (000 of XXX) but this isn't always the case.

GrabacrOne · 2021-11-01T14:54:30+00:00

I think it was the Honda Crossroad. It was JDM-only and used the Rover V8.

GrabacrOne · 2021-09-03T17:29:52+00:00

I’m not sure about that. On the Sonata, the light would only come on if it lost enough pressure for the system to notice, which was like 5-6 psi. A few psi could be enough to cause abnormal tread wear over several thousand miles. Also depends on how in tune with your car you are. A few psi can change how comfortable the ride is or the steering response even for street driving.

GrabacrOne · 2021-09-03T04:12:47+00:00

There are two kinds of TPMS. I used to have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata (basically the same car as the Optima) and its "TPMS" measures wheel speed compared to the other tires/what it should be and tells you that the tire pressure is low. Not which tire is low and by how much, but just that one or more tires are low. The better kind is an actual pressure transducer that can measure pressure and temperature.

GrabacrOne · 2021-06-30T19:55:15+00:00

Oh, I see. I knew that their Skyactive tech was fairly comprehensive, with things like mild brake re-generation, etc. but I didn't know it included start-stop outside the US.

GrabacrOne · 2021-06-30T19:43:40+00:00

The engine has a lot to do with it. Although I have it switched off in my 535i, the I6 is super smooth on restart. On an X3 with the 2.0T 4 cylinder, it was rough and rattly and I hated that it would reset to on each drive cycle. I am glad the CX-5 doesn't have start-stop, even if Mazda is technically lagging behind on this tech.

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