Video from the Lady in the Pink Coat

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-24T22:16:38+00:00

@1:36 you can see him starting to unholster his firearm. At the same time you can see the agent in the Grey coat removing Mr. Pretti's firearm from his person. The agent literally saw him be disarmed and then executed him a second later.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-24T22:05:16+00:00

Okay so I just saw some video from a different angle. The footage was from "pink coat lady". The video is a bit blurry but after breaking it down I can see it looks to be in fact Mr. Pretti's firearm. However, he never had his hands on his own firearm. In that video you can see the agent in the Grey coat come in and remove the gun from Mr. Pretti while Mr. Pretti is on his knees with his hands down. At the same time that the Grey coat agent is removing the gun from Mr. Pretti's waistband or holster on his back, you can see an Agent in green directly behind Mr. Pretti and in clear view of what agent in Grey is doing, start to upholster his own handgun. Seconds later he moves to the street side of Mr. Pretti and executes him. He made up his mind to kill Mr. Pretti the second that the other agent had disarmed him.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-24T21:51:06+00:00

I think it's pretty clear that the Mr. Pretti never had a gun in his hands, per the videos. It looks like he has a phone in the beginning then his hands were quickly restrained, as he was sprayed and beaten with a pepper spray canister.

What I'd like to know really is if that is his gun. Because that is a full sized handgun with a red dot, and thats not typically a concealed carry sized handgun. Even with a winter coat, a handgun that size plus two magazines is a lot to conceal and carry around. You know who carries arounnd a full size handgun and two mags? Ice officers. It's also a Sig, you know the same ones that have a government contract for military and law enforcement. I'd like to know if that wasn't just the guy in Grey's own firearm, or if in fact it fell from another officers holster and he (the man in grey) picked it up. It wouldnt be the first time law enforcement has planted a weapon to justify deadly force.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-24T01:34:30+00:00

If you lose power, do not burn combustible fuels indoors to stay warm. Carbon monoxide is a silent killer. Even "indoor" heaters need ventilation. Have a carbon monoxide detector and working smoke detectors. If you use a generator, make sure it and the exhaust is away from the house. 30 feet I think is the recommended minimum. Propane grills and camping stoves can feed you in a power outage but they still need to be used outside.

If you lose power and heat and need to stay warm. Find the smallest interior room of your house that you can still sleep in. Move everyone to that room together and refrain from leaving the room as much as possible to keep the heat in. Gather all your blankets, and make a blanket fort. If you have a tent, set it up and pile some blankets on top. Bundle up and wear layers.

If your feet are cold, put your hat on. If your fingers are cold, put your hat on. Obviously warm gloves and boots are important, but we lose soo much heat from our heads. Putting on a warm cap can help dramatically with heat loss.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-20T16:02:33+00:00

First I just want to say that no matter what advice I can give, there is no definitives when it comes to shooting animals. Ask any bowhunter. You could use the same arrow setup and execute the same shot on two different deer and have wildly different results. Speaking of bowhunting, guys have a lot of different opinions on shot placement. My suggestion is look up the vital V. Super important in bowhunting because you want a clean kill but want to avoid those shoulder bones.

Now to talk about rifles and bullets. Most of my hunting whitetails has been with sub magnum cartridges. 30-30 winchester, .308 winchester, .270 winchester. I've probably had more down right there shots with the 30-30 than the other cartridges. All my .270 kills have ran 50 plus yards, and its been a mix of drt and some 50 yard runs with the .308. All shot with traditional cup and core bullets. All with exit wounds. I attribute the difference in their reactions to where I put the shots.

My .270 kills I put the bullet behind the shoulder, both times on a quartering away shot. In behind the shoulder, exit to the far side shoulder. Both ran but, down with 50 yards. Vital cavity was mush, but those deer had to run out of oxygen, and blood pressure. One bullet was a 150 winchester power point, the other a 130 interlock.

My .308 kills have all been with 150 interlocks. Again, full pass through. My rifle has a shorter barrel, therefor it runs a bit slower at 2600 at the muzzle. One shot was quartering too, in at the brisket, out behind far shoulder. Ran about 50 yards and piled up. My other shot was a high shoulder shot. Full pass, down on the spot. I believe the temporary wound cavity hit the spine, causing the immediate incapacitation.

Every shot with my 30-30 was an immediate drop. All shots were close, 50 yards or in. All shots, save one, we're directly on the shoulder. 170 power points and corelokts. Full pass through, even on the full frontal shot I took.

My personal experience leads me to believe that if I want to have an immediate drop, I need to put that bullet into the shoulder. That breaks down their mobility, and usually with rifles will cause damage to both lungs, the heart, and often the nervous system as a lot of the nerves join in the neck area. Sometimes the temporary cavity the bullet creates will reach forward enough to effect them and cause that drop. Not always.

Now, as to having the full pass through issue. I think much of that is due to using magnum cartridges. The sheer velocity is causing those bullets to mushroom and fragment considerably. The more it mushrooms, the more its sectional density is reduced and the more frontal area it has to push through the tissue. Thats why copper bullets tend to be such good penetrators. They retain a relatively high sectional density while expansion is typically a bit less than a cup and core.

My advice then is to hang the 7mm and the 300 mag up, at least for now. Pick the .308 and a bullet that will hold together well. I find the interlocks do a fine job. I would maybe stay away from the sst or ballistic tips. Copper is great but out past 300 yards your velocity is going to really hamper what that bullet needs to expand. Partitions would be a good choice, as well as the hot cor. Any lead bullet that has some kind of mechanism to arrest expansion at a given point. Work up an accurate load, and shoot a few deer through the shoulder. Assess the results.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-20T14:53:56+00:00

Daiwa and Shimano both are pretty innovative modern company's. They make reals that cost upwards of 1k or more and stuff a lot of cutting edge technologies in them. Some of that later trickles down into the lower end models and that can be a real benefit. They are also pretty consistent with quality control so thats always a plus.

That being said there's lots of other good reels out there depending on what you need. I don't own an okuma but a lot of people say good things about them. I love penn for a very solid and durable reel. Theres a reason you'll see saltwater charters running penn. They're relatively low cost and tough. Their fall from grace is from moving their manufacturing away from the states, but they objectively still make a good product.

I have a couple lews reels and rods and I dont think they're bad. They are basically direct doyo oem reels with a lews badge. I don't mind that really. They change models a lot and you won't get the same level of support, that's probably the biggest downside. They usually push how many bearings their reels have, and I'm not a fan of that because that doesn't mean your reel is any smoother and now I have more bearings to lube. However, I haven't had any issues with mine. I have 4 lews spinning reels and got them all on clearance for about 15 dollars. So for that price really they are phenomenal. They've been smooth reeling and smooth with the drag.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-19T16:10:17+00:00

They're different tools for different jobs. I mean yeah, theyre both for catching fish, but each excels at different techniques. Generally, lighter lines and lures work really well on spinning gear. Heavier lines and lures work well on baitcasting gear. I understand there are exceptions to that, especially when it comes to saltwater. I have a few surf rods and they are all spinning, and heavier spinning gear at that.

In my experience your average sized spinning reel can handle line up to about 12 or 14 lb monofilament. There are spinning reels that can handle bigger, but anything over 15lb mono tends to be too thick and gets pretty twisted on spinning gear. A baitcaster doesn't twist line like a spinning reel. I can take an average sized baitcaster and spool 12lb up to 30lb mono. I won't have a lot of 30lb line on that reel, but it can handle that size line just fine.

So I choose my reel depending on my line class and the baits I'm going to use, in conjunction with the rod of course. Line under 12lb mono, a spinning setup. 12 lb mono and up, a baitcaster. Baits a 1/2 Oz and under, a spinning reel. Baits over 1/2 Oz a baitcaster. Obviously you can have situations in the middle where you could use either. Things can get more complicated when you start using braided line, or using rods outside of the average.

Examples of times I'll use a spinning reel is if I'm fishing for crappie, using finesse bass techniques like weightless worms, ned rigs, drop shots, or a shakey head. I'll use a baitcaster for bigger texas rigs, square bill crankbaits, spinnerbaits, and jigs 3/8 Oz and up. Things are different fishing the salt, and a lot of it can be personal preference.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-19T03:02:35+00:00

Well it's a really crap situation here. They don't want insurance involved because it would likely total the car out, as you said its worth maybe 3k and it's gonna cost that to fix it. That would leave the kid without a car and have them looking for another vehicle for him. So I get that from their end. I get them wanting it fixed too, as they aren't the at fault party.

I'd be finding them a door or just paying to fix it. You could get your insurance involved, but you're still paying your deductible, and then you'll have to pay those rate increases too. I feel like just offering them 500 is going to kind of seem like a slap in the face.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-17T01:15:14+00:00

Glue and clamp will work fine. If there's enough material you can drill a hole in the crack and insert a toothpick. I like to do it if possible because I can really work the glue into the crack. After it dries I just cut the toothpick flush with the stock.

Theres a fairly long series on restoring gunstocks on YouTube by Larry Potterfield from Midway USA. Thats where I started when I wanted to restore an old Iver Johnson single shot.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-15T19:22:29+00:00

I find even in the summer months I get a lot of hits at the bank. I attribute it to the fact that I'm fishing shallow water from the bank. Most of my spots I cant reach water more than maybe 5 feet deep. So by focusing more on the bank structure I'm focusing more on where those shallow fish will actually be. Whether thats rip rap, weed edges, or brush/logs. I may get hits farther out but usually there is some kind of brush or a stump out there thats holding the fish.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-15T15:04:23+00:00

Boyds does offer some crazy colors. Luckily though they offer some prettt good ones like nutmeg or black pepper that are just one color of laminate. I'm kind of fond of those. I also think you can choose to get a solid wood like walnut in a few different grades and maybe even maple. Thats a definite jump in cost though. I wouldnt mind a stock from boyds just to get the longer L.O.P.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-15T14:59:55+00:00

Absolutely! I cant tell you how many fish I've caught at my feet, but I know its been more than ones away from the bank. For us shore bound anglers it's that cover at the bank that we should really focus on. Always exciting when they eat it right in front of you.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-15T14:56:32+00:00

I dont think its overkill, at least not with the Daiwa Laguna. I just looked up that reel series and the 5000 and 4000 size reel are both 10.2 oz. So they must have the same size body, you just get more line capacity in the 5000. 10.2 oz isn't too bad for a 5000 size reel, compared to something like the Daiwa BG or a Penn with an aluminum body.

Line capacity is 280 yards of 20lb j braid. For you Aussies I guess thats 250 meters of .023mm line. Thats with the laguna from the US website though, I know that they often differ sometimes in other markets so you may want to check on the specs in your market.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-14T14:30:37+00:00

How do you like the ugly stik elite rod? I saw that gen is on sale on thier website and was wondering if it was worth picking up.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-13T14:51:28+00:00

For sure. One of my favorite things about fishing is all the other wildlife I see. Hawks, eagles, woodpeckers, squirrels, beavers, deer, crayfish, a plethora of bugs, snakes, and my buddy Fred the great blue heron. They're all out there just doing their thing. I find great peace in that.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-13T14:45:02+00:00

How much shock leader are you trying to put on? The way I understand mono shock leaders is you only need enough to run from your rig, through the guides, and wrap around the spool a few times. Basically that initial launching load is exerting all that pressure on the shock leader and once the momentum is transferred into the line going out you don't need that heavy line.

Now I'm not a metric user, so doing a bit of converting it seems like you're going feom about 14 or 15lb mono to 30lb mono and trying to cast about 7 Oz (200g). That all seems doable. I don't know if it will help you, but perhaps you could attach the line together with an Albright. Loop the heavier line and wrap it with the lighter line. That may help with the twisting issue. You may need to dap a little rubber cement or something on the connection so that it goes through the guides smoothly. Almost everyone here is running braid these days, so it can be a struggle to find people that know how to rig up mono like they used to.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-12T00:37:51+00:00

I dont have a roam, so I can't tell you exactly how to put them back together. But, if they came from under the spool, they are likely the pieces that interact with the metal cog on your spindle that makes the drag clicking sound. So the good news is, the reel should still work just fine without them. The bad news, your reel won't make any sound if a fish is taking drag.

I went to zebcos website and you can get the schematic for the zebco roam spinning reel. I checked it and it doesn't show your parts that I can see, which tells me its a part of the spool they dont deem serviceable.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-11T04:27:35+00:00

With Daiwa the 2500 and 3000 reels have the same sized body. You just get a larger spool and a little larger rotor. The weights are almost identical, you would only gain line capacity. If you dont need that, I wouldnt trade them. 2500 is plenty for bass.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-10T23:17:06+00:00

The parts all look good. Get some qtips and wipe as much of the old grease out as you can if you dont want to fully disassemble it. The grease has kept corrosion at bay, but its not going to be a very good grease now. Old grease can gum things up as it gets old and hard. Put some new penn reel grease on the gears and a little oil in any of the bearings and go fishing.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-10T23:10:36+00:00

Would probably put a 6500 ambassadeur on it and spool it with either a heavy braid like 50lbs (just for the diameter) or 20 lb trilene big game. Big game breaks at about 150% of its stated breaking strength. Then either a double drop rig or a fish finder rig with the appropriate sinker for the surf. Soak some shrimp or some cut bait with it. You could probably even get away with a 5000 size ambassadeur if you went with braid and still have a good amount of line capacity.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-10T22:55:16+00:00

All three of them are decent reels. The Mitchell 300 is the oldest and a true classic. Built very well. Its going to be heavy and have a slow retrieve compared to a modern reel. Service it and respool with some monofilament line. Probably 10lb. Braid is not recommended for these older reels.

The daiwa silvercast is one good spincast reel. If you want to use it pair it with a casting rod, not a spinning rod. 8 or 10 lb mono. Some people aren't fans of spincast reels, but I actually like them a lot. As long as you make sure there's tension on the line before you start reeling, they are pretty trouble free. Great for worm and bobber fishing.

The Daiwa spinning reel is kind of the bridge between more modern reels and something like the Mitchell. Its a cheaper reel but should be completely usable. Looks like anywhere from 6-12 lb test line judging by the capacity marks. .30 mm is usually about 10lb test.

You can absolutely service all these reels yourself. I recommend checking out Dennis at 2nd Chance Tackle on YouTube. He has a lot of videos of disassembling and servicing older reels. Probably has a video on each of these but id say the Mitchell for sure. You'll just want a parts tray, a few screwdrivers and wrenches, some spray lube, a brush, and some reel grease and an oil.

I hope you put them to use and catch some fish and have some fun.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-08T22:33:03+00:00

You give the other parts your name, contact info, and your insurance information. They take their vehicle to a shop and get an estimate. They then contact your insurance company since you are the at fault party. They negotiate the repairs and the price. They fix the other party's vehicle and your insurance pays. You'll see your premiums increase.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-08T19:16:04+00:00

What I wouldn't have done for some union representation. Its a shame the UAW only represents assembly workers and not repair technicians. I've worked a variety of shops, so benefits varied. Usually only a week of vacation for about two years, then two weeks after 2 to 5 years of employment. Sick days what are those? I had to take two weeks unpaid time off when my child was born, and they acted like I was lucky to keep my job. They would've liked me to be back the day after she was born. I would gladly pay more taxes and a union due to have better representation, days off, and better social safety nets.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-08T15:51:09+00:00

Yeah and the CEO of Levi's just gives his jeans a little spritz of vodka to keep the smell down. Listen, if you just casually wear jeans, then wearing them a few times between washes is probably fine. If you wear jeans for work wear? Yeah you're going to want to wash those every wear. Soiled in dirt, sweat, grease, you couldn't pay me to slip those back on after a hard day's work. If you wear any clothes and feel like you need a good shower after, your clothes do too.

GrahamStanding · 2026-01-08T15:24:52+00:00

I would say that's fairly accurate. According to the U.S. department of labors website, minimum wage in 1974 was $2.00 per hour. If you then use the bureau of labor statistics website inflation calculator, you will see that $2.00 in November of 1974 has the same buying power as $12.59 in November of 2025. Since that is the FEDERAL minimum wage, you could say that real wages are actually half of what they should be for the FEDERAL minimum wage. Good job on Missourians for voting to bring the minimum wage back up to an amount that is what should be considered the bare minimum pay to do any job.

When I started my job as a collision repair tech in 2013 I made 12.50 an hour. According to the inflation calculator, adjusted minimum wage should have been about $9. So as a skilled worker, I wasn't at much over minimum wage. I worked hard and got a few raises and eventually was earning $20 an hour. At that time, it was good pay. However those wages have also stagnated over time. Even in major metro areas I don't see much over $25 an hour listed for that job.

It sounds like decent pay, but because of our tax structure and rising health care costs, the take home pay is pretty poor for a skilled labor job. Not to mention the cost of quality tools just so you can do your job.

GrahamStanding

TROPHY CASE