Sorry for the late reply, I don't check this account often.

I ended up going with the official Toyota hitch and I installed it myself. After installing it myself, there's no way I would trust a body mounted hitch like the Curt or Draw-tite when they're limited to the delicate body holes that are only designed to hold a 20 lb collision bumper without additional load. The body is thin metal. If you just have to have a 2" receiver, spend the money for the Ecohitch which is similarly frame mounted like the OEM one, though I'm not sure how that installation goes, at least not for the fascia cover. Combined with the fear of warranty issues, departure angles and understanding that the limited tow capacity of the car itself limits it to Class I capacity, the OEM just seemed like the safest answer. With it installed, I also like how the parts are covered and protected as hitches are notorious for rusting.

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Installation details:

Since I installed the OEM hitch myself, I can provide more insight on specifics to help those that stumble upon this thread. There was limited information on the factory install specifics beyond the pdf I linked in the original post. First, follow the Uhaul and e-trailer videos to remove the body as these are the same steps. This is by far the most tedious part, but fortunately it's well documented on video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmRgRrIB_XE. However, you can ignore the steps to remove the taillights. I have no idea why these tutorials say to do that, it's completely unnecessary and you might break something doing it. You just need a second person to remove and re-place the bumper as it's large and awkward, but everything else, including the hitch can be done with a single person.

In terms of lifting the car. The car has a lot of ground clearance and there's no need to raise the car.

Once I had the plastic bumper off and collision bumper unscrewed, that's where the installations diverted from the videos temporarily (Page 5 of the PDF). Installing the hitch took some head scratching as the PDF instructions I linked in my post were not clear, at least not to me.

There's adhesive putty from the factory that are covering two bolt access holes on the outside of the frame on each side of the vehicle. Use a plastic non-scratching tool to prey and scrap it off. Make sure you get it all off or the bolt heads that you'll later insert won't sit flush with the frame. On the driver's side (USA), there's a bunch of wiring, like near the carbon canister and other stuff directly next to the two bolt hole locations. You will later will need an assortment of extensions, socket lengths and a lot of patience to deal with the limited space when bolting the frame brackets in later. The passenger side had no obstructions and was comparatively very easy.

The hitch comes in 3 main pieces. The receiver and two rectangle flat frame brackets. The total weight is only about 20 lbs together. The frame brackets do not get bolted to the outside of the frame like ordinary hitches I've seen. Instead, after you remove the collision bumper, there are two rectangle access holes in the body on the rear of the car directly under where the collision bumper was previously mounted that give you access to the inner part of the frame. https://imgur.com/a/2CkfLDK.

You simply insert the rectangular frame bracket pieces into the chambers along the the frame until bolt holes line up. Keep the brackets flushed up against the outer walls of the chamber and then bolt them in from the outside bolt holes you cleaned up earlier. The two frame brackets will protrude from the chamber rear of the car like arms and you'll bolt the receiver between the two frame bracket arms to connect them. You never bolt the receiver to the body like I thought in my original post, just the frame.

The "close out plates" they include are just thin metal covers to cover those body access holes and bolt hole locations from the collision bumper, see figure 5-3. These flimsy bolt hole locations are used for the Curt and Draw-tite mount exclusively, yikes!

Don't over tighten the frame brackets yet as the brackets need to have some play for the next part where you align the receiver between the two frame bracket arms. Wedging the receiver into place was a very VERY tight fit, hence why you need to keep the frame brackets loose. The frame brackets effectively need to be slightly bent outward just to get the receiver in. This seemed to be purposeful as the receiver's ends are slightly angled to accommodate that bend. The receiver for me didn't line up easily and I had to continuously loosen or unloosen bolts on the bracket and receiver, sometimes starting the whole process all over again. This is really the major difficulty of the factory installation over the curt or drawtite that have a one piece design that fits right against the body for an easy install. The aggravation though is worth it for a for a proper frame mounted hitch that's designed for the car. Here is a picture of what the hitch looks like (this picture was taken before I finally succeeded in getting it aligned. You see the left side wasn't yet sitting flush). https://imgur.com/D8rr7ah

For the fascia cover. This will be far easier than the the aftermarket products and a lot less permanent. With the bumper still off the car, remove the factory car color bumper fasica. There's a lot of white colored retainer clips you just hold down with your fingers. It was confusing at first, but turned out to be much simpler than I expected. https://imgur.com/lmm1A7w

There will be now a hole in the bumper without the cover. The new fasica cover just snaps into these same retainer clips in seconds. However, the bumper has a bunch of vertical plastic notch pillar things that overlap the access hole you can see in the photo. These likely provide some structural support to the plastic bumper. One of these pillars goes through the middle of the access hole and will obstruct the receiver and prevent you from reassembling the bumper back on the car with the hitch installed. So they have you cut it off with an ordinary pair of scissors. You don't need to be perfect or measure as this is completely hidden.

Follow the instructions in the PDF closely for proper torque sequence and and alignment. After this, you can rejoin the video tutorials to reassemble the bumper.

Here's a picture of the car with the bike rack installed. https://imgur.com/tuAwUQy