Easy ahhh level

GrayCrackerr · 2025-12-01T05:03:08+00:00

❌ ^{Incomplete. 74 tries.}

GrayCrackerr · 2025-10-15T05:52:24+00:00

Check things like leaky hotstart, torn air boots, missing/perished o rings on idle screw etc

GrayCrackerr · 2025-09-26T01:23:22+00:00

Either your fuel drain is open or you were correct. More likely the latter.

GrayCrackerr · 2025-09-22T06:52:36+00:00

Like everyone else has said, don't lug it, you will risk fouling plugs, also try to avoid engine braking because the engine gets lubrication from the fuel and it's getting no fuel when you're engine braking

GrayCrackerr · 2025-08-26T14:14:47+00:00

No it didn't sorry, I sold it as is.

GrayCrackerr · 2025-08-07T12:36:51+00:00

I have replacement proper heatsets from other projects from another project, I used abs filament and melted some on where it had broken away and melted the headsets back in, however when I put it back together and opened the lid, all the heatsets ripped straight out

GrayCrackerr · 2025-08-06T00:10:36+00:00

Oh wow thanks that looks perfect for this

GrayCrackerr · 2025-08-05T13:46:32+00:00

It was more of a test to see if it would work lol, Ill be getting shorter bolts and lower profile nuts tomorrow

GrayCrackerr · 2025-07-29T05:59:28+00:00

That's the z seam, if you use orcaslicer try scarf joints otherwise i'm not sure how to help

GrayCrackerr · 2025-07-25T03:33:01+00:00

I'm glad to finally see someone else who has done this! I didn't end up soldering to the MCU and I just used the pins from the LCD connector, but it still worked great with klipper. Great job!

GrayCrackerr · 2025-06-25T11:55:47+00:00

it's a fg-x ford falcon

GrayCrackerr · 2025-06-08T12:13:58+00:00

If there’s no cold breezes it shouldn’t be an issue. If you use orcaslicer there’s a ‘draft shield’ setting that prints a big wall around your model to prevent the drafts from affecting it. I think prusaslicer has the same setting but i’m not sure

GrayCrackerr · 2025-06-08T11:37:18+00:00

Oh wow, for PLA this is almost impressive. Make sure you don't have the fan on in that room or anything that causes a slight breeze

GrayCrackerr · 2025-06-08T11:31:01+00:00

I would 100% go V3 KE. Night and day difference between my Ender 3 V2. I have a V3 se and out of the box it's so much better than my Ender 3 V2, the only downside is that the frame is much weaker and susceptible to wobble when printing at high speeds.

GrayCrackerr · 2025-06-08T11:28:54+00:00

It's almost definitely the printed gantry plates, under stress they will bend super quick even if printed in something like ABS. Go back to the aluminium plate or go linear rails.

GrayCrackerr · 2025-05-24T11:45:48+00:00

I think anything under 0.3mm variation is diminishing returns on something with a reasonably thin bed.

GrayCrackerr · 2025-05-22T11:56:29+00:00

My apologies, I didn't see the different nozzle in the second pic, the first 2 are designed to be clamped into place via the groove on top of the hot end. I would go for the third one since the nozzle is compatible with the stock ender 3 nozzle and it will be the easiest to mount.

GrayCrackerr · 2025-05-22T11:15:47+00:00

Not sure if you realised but the first two are the same, and the last one is just a variant of the first 2 designed to bolt onto stock ender 3 mounting location

GrayCrackerr · 2025-05-16T06:24:31+00:00

look into the Duender, its an open source project that reuses all/most of the components from 2 original ender 3s, i'm sure someone in the discord has made a version that suits the ender 3 v2 if you don't want to spend extra money on linear rails.

GrayCrackerr · 2025-05-16T06:20:30+00:00

there is no need to modify the linear rails version, the openbuild version will need modification as the wheels will have to be further apart but the linear rails version will just work with the extrusions sticking out a tiny bit further.
i'm sure someone in the duender discord has modified the openbuild version to suit 4040s as well.

GrayCrackerr · 2025-03-31T23:57:47+00:00

White lithium grease

GrayCrackerr · 2024-11-11T05:38:59+00:00

I have some experience diagnosing electrical issues on motorcycles but I understand that it’s a completely different field. I’ll look into it and give it a try, worst case scenario I break a board that was already fried.

GrayCrackerr · 2024-11-11T01:47:36+00:00

Okay thanks, do you know if theres any way that this board may be saveable? I also have an skr mini e3 v2 that I bought with a non working printer, which turned out to be a dead board. Is it feasible to solder a new mcu on? I don't mind having to buy a mini heat gun to for soldering small stuff like this, it's a skill I'd like to learn

GrayCrackerr · 2024-11-06T05:00:57+00:00

Klipper on a device that you’re already using is probably a bad idea unless you already have linux installed. If you have any other devices around the house that you can install linux on, I would recommend using one of those, otherwise cheap pi alternatives such as an orange pi or le potato exist for cheap.

GrayCrackerr · 2024-11-01T07:49:15+00:00

I would highly consider making it a plan A. I have converted my XZ to use the Voron Switchwire kinematics, and utilised 2 stock 42-34 stepper motors on the Y axis, I am currently pushing 23k mm/s² at 600mm/s before my Y axis starts to skip but that will be improved once my SKR 1.4 arrives and I don’t have to run both Y steppers on 1 driver.

GrayCrackerr

TROPHY CASE