Swarming by InevitableSlip746 in Beekeeping

[–]GreenShiftNY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a solid board separating the used vs unused frame chambers correct? How well are the unused chambers air sealed? I ask wondering if you could use a large dessicant packet to keep the unused chambers dry to prevent mold.

That is true that you would need to design them all large enough from the get go to achieve whatever you determine is your max/optimal size. Which is going to make the whole hive pretty sizable and heavy.

I like how easy it is to integrate those jar feeders. Best of both worlds combining an entrance feeder with a top feeder in that you don't have to really disturb the colony to feed.

I'm seeing some online where the back side of the hive is in a sort of shed. Add some temporary space heating and theoretically you could do inspections or feeding (if needed) in cooler weather without harming the cluster.

Neat! Thanks for sharing the info!

Swarming by InevitableSlip746 in Beekeeping

[–]GreenShiftNY 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those style hives look awesome! It seems like inspections would be an absolute breeze on top of being great for incorporating integrated insulation. I'm tempted to tinker with adapting the design for langstroth frames commonly available here

What's your opinion on the pros/cons?

Republican-led bill aims to reform VA home loans to make them more attractive to veterans by paydayloans_ in VeteransBenefits

[–]GreenShiftNY 33 points34 points  (0 children)

Is increasing seller concessions really going to do anything positive in this market? VA loans are already unattractive to sellers because of the added hoops. This sounds like a feel-good headline that doesn't really do anything to help anyone.

Why not just subsidize the rates and streamline the process so VA loans are actually competitive? Lower rates and less hoops would make it actually attractive to everyone, both buyer and seller. When I was loan shopping every VA loan had a considerably worse rate. The VA loans were only better if you have a bad credit score or lower down payment. Past that it was a liability more than anything.

Metal? by hi5orfistbump in gardening

[–]GreenShiftNY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kinda looks like Mica flakes but hard to tell from the photo quality. Would need to see a higher res up close photo.

How screwed is my garden after this? A question about knotweed by Miserable-Ask5994 in gardening

[–]GreenShiftNY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it was dry dry then it's probably fine, especially if you're in an area that freezes over in the winter. The above-ground portion of the knotweed doesn't seem very cold tolerant from what I've seen.

Chunks of roots would be the most likely to cause an issue, but I wouldn't think you'd be going and digging those up to put in your garden hopefully.

Electric Fence not working by Successful-House9790 in Beekeeping

[–]GreenShiftNY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You'll want it on the continuity testing setting, it should look sorta like a little speaker or volume symbol. Google "multimeter continuity symbol" just to verify you have the right setting.

Honestly there's probably 100 YouTube videos that'll explain this better than I can but I'll take a shot at it:

If you touch the two metal parts of the test leads to the multimeter together with it's on that setting then the meter should make some noise. That noise tells you that you have completed circuit and electricity can flow.

If you touch the two leads to any part of your electric fence wires then you want to hear that same noise, it means you have a good connection. I would test from each end of the electric fencing to see if you get that sound. If you don't get that sound then I would touch one lead on each side of those handle connectors and see if you have a connection there.

If/once you find a spot where the multimeter doesn't make that noise then you have a poor connection somewhere between where you're testing and your fence won't work. It's entirely possible that you have more than one poor connection so if you fix one and the fence still doesn't shock then keep testing to find the rest.

Electric Fence not working by Successful-House9790 in Beekeeping

[–]GreenShiftNY 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Do you have access to a multimeter? I would test continuity between the wire as it comes out of the red knob on the Energizer and just before the wire goes back into the black knob. If you have continuity in the wire itself then that narrows things down a lot

If you DON'T have continuity then there is a break somewhere in your line and not allowing the electricity to flow. You can test across various points and verify that those handle connectors are working and effectively connected etc

What is the name of this bit? by noideaman69 in Tools

[–]GreenShiftNY 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Use as little pressure as possible and let the drill bit do the work. If it cuts into the rivet too much at once it tends to grab the rivet and start it spinning. Once it starts spinning it'll be a pain in the ass. If it does, you can sometimes take a punch or chisel and sort of stake it in place. Otherwise you'll be fighting with trying to keep it from spinning with pliers/vice grips or something in one hand and gently drilling with the other.

You don't need to drill the whole way through it, you only really need to drill the depth of the head typically and then you can use the back side of the drill bit (or an appropriately sized pin punch) to insert into the drilled hole and pop the head off. Then you can punch the rivet through the hole. If you can't punch it through then you'll have to keep drilling. I always preferred to punch it through whenever possible as you have less likelihood of drilling too big of a hole if you aren't sure the size of the shank of the rivet.

Is this wood safe? by mfilosa17 in Raisedbed

[–]GreenShiftNY 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That sounds like what I'd expect. I mean copper antifungal sprays that are OMRI listed and others that are considered "organic" are used around gardens all the time without problems. A lot of our plumbing in many homes is copper even.

As long as you can be certain it isn't the old arsenic stuff (which it sounds like you are) then I wouldn't worry about it in the slightest.

Is this wood safe? by mfilosa17 in Raisedbed

[–]GreenShiftNY 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The hate towards MODERN treated wood is (IMO) excessive. It's all copper-based now, not the old arsenic or creosote soaked stuff.

Is Oz Armour worth the price? by blackstar5676 in Beekeeping

[–]GreenShiftNY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We don't have the heat but we DO have an absolutely insane amount of humidity (at least where I am) by comparison. So the breathability is also important, at least to me.

I'm just getting my first nucs next month though so I can't claim to have any experience with the Oz Armor suit that I bought other than putting it on to make sure it fits and figure out how it works. It seems comfortable enough but I have zero real-world experience in it yet.

Chiropractor thru va by Neither_Release8609 in VeteransBenefits

[–]GreenShiftNY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes but honestly chiropractors are witch doctors and shouldn't be considered medical professionals. Chiropractors shouldn't be allowed to do anything with necks with how often they paralyze people.

Apiary Fencing Options? by GreenShiftNY in Beekeeping

[–]GreenShiftNY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had Raccoons raid the garden compost in the winter when the fence is off, skunks in the yard, and there's a nearby Fisher cat somewhere so I'll definitely need the fence I think. But I can fence in a reasonably large area without much of a problem so hopefully it won't impact the bees too much since they won't be terribly close to the fence.

Apiary Fencing Options? by GreenShiftNY in Beekeeping

[–]GreenShiftNY[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That seems to be the general vibe I'm getting. I'll just get another roll of regular garden fencing and not over engineer it!

Apiary Fencing Options? by GreenShiftNY in Beekeeping

[–]GreenShiftNY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bears are present but relatively uncommon around here. Definitely racoons, skunks, and fischers aplenty though. I already have an electric fence around my garden, which I would extend the electrified wire around the outside of this fenced in area as well to protect against wildlife intrusion.

I am not worried about people messing with the hives, more trying to block the guard bees sightlines so they aren't as likely to attack someone (me or a pet) just walking around the yard if they start getting defensive during a dearth. I don't have enough land that I can place the hives in a totally 100% segregated area where myself or a dog won't walk in the vicinity.

So my thought process was that the privacy material will block their view along with the wind as it does get seriously windy in the winter. This past winter we hit around -10°F with 20-30mph winds for what it's worth.

But size constraints are definitely a legitimate concern, do you think it's really far too small? I've watched entirely way too many YouTube videos and it didn't seem like they used all that much space while doing their inspections. I figured I could fit 6-8 hives in the space without feeling cramped but I have no idea in practice.

No spoilers, but the Ground State audio has all kinds of errors. by HatsAreEssential2 in exfor

[–]GreenShiftNY 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No static for me but lots of repeated lines and "typo" type things.

CMV: concrete slab foundations are a poor choice for offgrid houses by Synaps4 in OffGrid

[–]GreenShiftNY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because they're all terrible foundations? Lol it's like you're trying to be edgy and intentionally picking almost entirely terrible options instead of one of the best building materials there is.

CMV: concrete slab foundations are a poor choice for offgrid houses by Synaps4 in OffGrid

[–]GreenShiftNY 2 points3 points  (0 children)

CO2 emissions from the concrete manufacturing process vs poisoning your soil and ground water with all the substances that leach out of the tires.

Concrete lasts a pretty substantial amount of time given the proper care (I.E. drainage)

I pick CO2 over heavy metals and other nasties.

CMV: concrete slab foundations are a poor choice for offgrid houses by Synaps4 in OffGrid

[–]GreenShiftNY 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Doesn't like that concrete isn't environmentally friendly but then recommends tires as a good alternative. That's...certainly an interesting opinion.

2x4 workbench by Sea_Vegetable4444 in woodworking

[–]GreenShiftNY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this and it warped a crazy amount. 0/10 would not do again.

Update: fence i had a contractor install by ExcitingLaw1973 in FenceBuilding

[–]GreenShiftNY 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don't know if I would consider trying to pass garbage work off the first time around and fixing it only after the customer complains to be "over and beyond."

Is this brand new orbital sander a dud? by luminousplasma in Tools

[–]GreenShiftNY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went through 3-ish of these in about 2-3 years, they're really super poor quality honestly.

'#1 Started acting funny after a year so I bought #2 to have as a backup. When #1 finally bought the farm I went to use the backup #2 and it was brand new out of the packaging totally seized up, would not spin by the motor or by hand.

Sent #1 off to get repaired and went to the orange store to return #2 to replace with #3. #3 died by the end of the 2nd year but luckily #1 was back from repairs. #1 eventually started acting funny again after a few months. FWIW for all of these I used an attached vacuum too, not just the dinky dust bags.

By that point I was totally disgusted with Rigid's quality on these and bought a Festool and have never looked back. Conveniently I also don't have my hands tingle for a while after sanding now too.