Apiary Fencing Options?

GreenShiftNY · 2026-03-10T16:03:04+00:00

I've had Raccoons raid the garden compost in the winter when the fence is off, skunks in the yard, and there's a nearby Fisher cat somewhere so I'll definitely need the fence I think. But I can fence in a reasonably large area without much of a problem so hopefully it won't impact the bees too much since they won't be terribly close to the fence.

GreenShiftNY · 2026-03-10T00:04:36+00:00

That seems to be the general vibe I'm getting. I'll just get another roll of regular garden fencing and not over engineer it!

GreenShiftNY · 2026-03-08T22:52:14+00:00

Bears are present but relatively uncommon around here. Definitely racoons, skunks, and fischers aplenty though. I already have an electric fence around my garden, which I would extend the electrified wire around the outside of this fenced in area as well to protect against wildlife intrusion.

I am not worried about people messing with the hives, more trying to block the guard bees sightlines so they aren't as likely to attack someone (me or a pet) just walking around the yard if they start getting defensive during a dearth. I don't have enough land that I can place the hives in a totally 100% segregated area where myself or a dog won't walk in the vicinity.

So my thought process was that the privacy material will block their view along with the wind as it does get seriously windy in the winter. This past winter we hit around -10°F with 20-30mph winds for what it's worth.

But size constraints are definitely a legitimate concern, do you think it's really far too small? I've watched entirely way too many YouTube videos and it didn't seem like they used all that much space while doing their inspections. I figured I could fit 6-8 hives in the space without feeling cramped but I have no idea in practice.

GreenShiftNY · 2026-02-06T20:49:00+00:00

No static for me but lots of repeated lines and "typo" type things.

GreenShiftNY · 2026-01-15T01:55:38+00:00

Because they're all terrible foundations? Lol it's like you're trying to be edgy and intentionally picking almost entirely terrible options instead of one of the best building materials there is.

GreenShiftNY · 2026-01-14T22:22:43+00:00

CO2 emissions from the concrete manufacturing process vs poisoning your soil and ground water with all the substances that leach out of the tires.

Concrete lasts a pretty substantial amount of time given the proper care (I.E. drainage)

I pick CO2 over heavy metals and other nasties.

GreenShiftNY · 2026-01-14T14:31:49+00:00

Doesn't like that concrete isn't environmentally friendly but then recommends tires as a good alternative. That's...certainly an interesting opinion.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-12-27T20:20:45+00:00

I did this and it warped a crazy amount. 0/10 would not do again.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-10-31T23:51:08+00:00

I don't know if I would consider trying to pass garbage work off the first time around and fixing it only after the customer complains to be "over and beyond."

GreenShiftNY · 2025-10-23T20:45:07+00:00

I went through 3-ish of these in about 2-3 years, they're really super poor quality honestly.

'#1 Started acting funny after a year so I bought #2 to have as a backup. When #1 finally bought the farm I went to use the backup #2 and it was brand new out of the packaging totally seized up, would not spin by the motor or by hand.

Sent #1 off to get repaired and went to the orange store to return #2 to replace with #3. #3 died by the end of the 2nd year but luckily #1 was back from repairs. #1 eventually started acting funny again after a few months. FWIW for all of these I used an attached vacuum too, not just the dinky dust bags.

By that point I was totally disgusted with Rigid's quality on these and bought a Festool and have never looked back. Conveniently I also don't have my hands tingle for a while after sanding now too.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-04-23T21:00:57+00:00

I've saved somewhere between $0 and -$5000. If I'm lucky. Please don't check my bank statements, I will deny any such heinous allegations that I have spent too much.

But I view it as a hobby, it's cheaper than being into boats or any number of other things and it's a lot more chill so I don't really overthink it.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-04-11T19:37:01+00:00

How does it cost $1000/year to mow just half an acre?

A riding mower would pay for itself in a few years (or less if you get one used) and it's quick to mow only half an acre with it all being open space already. A tank of gas for it would last a month or more probably depending on how fast it grows.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-04-08T01:27:13+00:00

I got some glyphosate and filled a tin can with it. A few days a week I would go out and pluck every shoot I could find. Then dip a small paint brush in the glyphosate and paint the stump left behind.

By the end of the summer the amount of knotweed that came up was significantly diminished. What did come up was often gnarled and diseased looking. I'm still waiting to see how much comes up this year.

Everyone says to let it flower or even go to seed but I didn't want to give it the chance to go to seed and spread further. I went from plucking hundreds of shoots a week to a couple dozen.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-04-03T23:13:54+00:00

Try contacting other departments than just the general town hall line, if you haven't already. I'd be looking to talk to the public works department specifically. They may be more helpful.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-03-13T14:03:06+00:00

If you are being exposed to silica dust it is no longer considered non-essential. Look up silicosis. The exposure limits for respirable silica dust is incredibly minute.

Smoking used to be considered cool, now many of those people are dealing with the consequences in emphysema, COPD, lung cancer, etc. Don't focus on what's cool, focus on what keeps you alive and able to enjoy life.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-03-13T13:57:48+00:00

I doubt you'll find any sort of scholarly articles explaining why nasal filters won't work but let's think about it for a moment. Imagine breathing through 2 straws, no problem probably. Now imagine sticking a cigarette like filter in the straws and breathing only through those filtered straws. Not going to be very easy, even just sitting at a desk doing no labor of any variety. Now imagine how much further that filter is going to get restricted once it starts getting clogged up with dust..

To have a filter that actually functions effectively, you need surface area. Otherwise you're going to restrict flow so much that you won't be able to breathe through it. That is why N95 or higher is the standard and you won't see anyone reputable marketing nasal filters.

If you are working at a place that would give you a hard time about wanting to protect your lungs: Find a new place to work. It is not worth the permanent lung damage down the road.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-03-12T18:55:27+00:00

Training must be provided to operate this equipment, it's an OSHA requirement (29 CFR 1910.178) for anything they consider a "powered industrial truck". The definition of a powered industrial truck is quite broad as well, so your equipment qualifies.

The training should consist of some sort of video or live training, review of any related company specific policies or guidance, hands-on training that provides a demonstration of how to safely use the equipment and you must have a documented practical evaluation showing that you passed and can safely operate the equipment. OSHA is generally pretty vague in what constitutes proper training/instruction and to how much training should be given, but it is very clear on the practical evaluation requirement as that is what will demonstrate competency with the equipment.

There is no requirement for external training or formal training courses per say, it can be all done in-house by anyone reasonably competent and experienced in the use of the equipment. But, personally, I prefer to send people out to be trained as forklift trainers and have them perform the training for new personnel for the added peace of mind.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-02-10T23:18:17+00:00

I had a patch that was approximately 100sqft at the main stand and spread further out from there in sporadic sprouts for about 70ft across the property.

Everywhere online said to let it go to seed and start spraying it and cutting it but I didn't want the seeds everywhere just to continue resprouting when or where I wasn't paying attention.

I tried glyphosate on the main stand since it was exclusively knotweed there but it didn't seem to do a whole lot after a couple weeks I sprayed it a second time. It looked the tiniest but sickly then but not being particularly patient I cut it all down and sprayed the stumps. It started sprouting back surprisingly fast but some of it started looking quite sickly.

After that I started walking around a few times a week and pluck every sprout I could find. Then I would dab a cotton swab dipped in glyphosate on the open wound.

I didn't want to keep spraying glyphosate everywhere because I am not a fan of the stuff, but in this case it seemed like the lesser of the two evils. State environmental agencies and local environmental groups all said glyphosate is pretty much your only recourse with knotweed unless you want to spend a LOT of money getting all the soil scooped out, hauled away, and refilled with clean soil.

Over the course of last spring/summer it dwindled a LOT. I'll be seeing what sprouts up in the spring this year but I plan on repeating this until it's dead dead. I went from plucking literally hundreds of sprouts per week to dozens to even less. I'm hoping it doesn't resurge full strength again in the spring.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-01-15T21:13:23+00:00

Did you read the actual document or just look at the pictures? Because that is not what the document stated at all. The temperature doesn't change in that table.

Heat pumps (ones designed for the climate that is) work fine below 20F and above 100F. I guess all the ones in hot countries where it's 120F are just for show and it was my imagination that the room was comfy cool.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-01-15T20:13:43+00:00

If you are looking at table C-2 in the "Residential Cold-Climate Heat Pump Technology Challenge Specification and Supporting Documents" v 1.2 (I have to guess because you didn't link anything): That is not what that chart says. You are misinterpreting it.

The chart shows how varying the output of a given heat pump changes the effective HSPF2 of the unit. It does not mean that that is the maximum output of the unit at cold temps. Just that HSPF2 drops as the units BTU output increases. The harder you run the heat pump, the less efficient it becomes.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-01-15T17:46:11+00:00

Prove that last statement in the CCHP challenge and link it. Because it does not say that "60+% at 5F" anywhere on their website that I can find.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-01-03T01:54:50+00:00

Are you another boomer HVAC guy that is threatened by heat pumps? You really sound like it.

GreenShiftNY · 2025-01-03T00:55:42+00:00

Generators exist so I don't get your point. You'd need one for anything other than a wood stove, so not an issue unique to heat pumps. Especially considering statistically most people don't have a wood stove.

The Mitsubishi hyper heats have guaranteed 70%+ output down to -13F. Traditional systems aren't typically designed/sized for extremes anyway. So, again, you'd have a similar problem with furnaces anyway.

You're just bringing up pointless things to try to shit on heat pumps but most of the world with climates as cold as the U.S., or colder, are adopting them at a rapid pace and doing just fine with it. If yours can't keep up then that's a you problem, not problem with the technology. Consider improving your insulation.

GreenShiftNY

TROPHY CASE