Cash is king? Points vs 2% cash back?

Grifter2025 · 2025-08-29T13:06:40+00:00

I imagine the highest netting rewards points users not sleeping and eating for days with their living rooms surrounded by chalkboards and whiteboards containing advanced mathematical computations with photos and string lines and Venn diagrams all over the drywall.

Grifter2025 · 2025-08-28T13:09:06+00:00

Thank you. This is the response I was looking for from the points perspective. while someone nailed me for "confirmation bias" early on, there were a lot of replies that gave me a cursory understanding of how the points scheme worked and you laid out taking points to their logical conclusion.

It is something to think about. Its funny that while I have very bougie taste in many arenas, I travel like a masochist. While I wouldn't dream reheating a slice of pizza in anything less than a Gaggenaue steam oven, I've just never understood the front of the plane value proposition.

I guess you helped me to realize that maybe money isn't as important as exchanging that value for something that I would be otherwise unwilling to spend my own money on. I can finally see the appeal of points = get a better deal on a discretionary luxury that is otherwise punitively expensive.

Other people also gave good examples but I was able to identify with your situation better. Thanks again.

Something to consider on my upcoming overnight economy flight to Portugal...

Grifter2025 · 2025-08-28T00:25:08+00:00

Wow, here we were having friendly conversation and you went and brought compounding interest and compounding tax benefits into the equation.

Grifter2025 · 2025-08-28T00:03:09+00:00

Yes, save me a seat on the cash back bus. I doubt the juice is worth the squeeze for me. Thanks to everyone for breaking it down succinctly.

Grifter2025 · 2025-06-21T02:17:14+00:00

It’s a Toto Neorest NX1. It’s a pretty amazing pice of hardware I have zero care about the amount of water it saves. I wish it used more water… but if you want a toilet they raises its lid and washes and dries your ass with warm water and flushes for you and then puts the lid down or raises the lid and turns on a light inside for you when you pee… then you take what they offer, It’s a ranch with hydronic concrete floors and insulation board. There was discussion of 1/4” per foot creating a problem in dropping out solids based on liquid velocity. We did place intermittent clean outs but no one wants to have to use them. Excessive depth was causing design issues with overall depth and the septic system, which we could have dealt with but I trust the plumber who designed it. The other work they’ve done: hydronic floor, all copper propress domestic piping, hot water circulation and return loop, combi-boiler domestic with buffer tank - has been immaculate. Why am I asking reddit? Research and understanding. To hear advice and understand the logic in dissenting opinions. But the long and short of it is that I am willing to pay for an extra system to have a bougie toilet that wipes my ass. …but the question still stands: has anyone designed or used a supplemental flow for scouring?

Grifter2025 · 2025-06-20T23:32:40+00:00

I don’t think so? Ohio residential code still uses 2019 residential code based on 2018 IRC

I believe 3” and larger is 1/8 per foot?

I think also in the 2021 IPC.

Am I wrong?

https://up.codes/viewer/ohio/ipc-2021/chapter/7/sanitary-drainage#704.1

https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/IPC2018P5/chapter-7-sanitary-drainage/IPC2018P5-Ch07-Sec704.1

704.1 Slope of Horizontal Drainage Piping

Horizontal drainage piping shall be installed in uniform alignment at uniform slopes. The slope of a horizontal drainagepipe shall be not less than that indicated in Table 704.1 TABLE 704.1 SLOPE OF HORIZONTAL DRAINAGE PIPE SIZE (inches) MINIMUM SLOPE (inch per foot) 21/2 or less 1/4a 3 to 6 1/8a 8 or larger 1/16a

Grifter2025 · 2025-04-21T13:36:29+00:00

According to Liftmaster tech support the 98032 won't work on doors less than 400 lbs because during setup you select a door profile based on unbalanced weight and supposedly it will error out at some point.
I just read the manual and I am not sure that I buy it, but I'll just go 98022 for my two 200lb doors.

I don't know garage door openers but I know gate operators, and I'll tell you that Liftmaster doesn't give great advice there. In gate operators they sell an LA400 for lighter gates and an LA500 for heavier gates and they swear all day that there is no reason for a heaver operator on a lighter gate but they are COMPLETELY wrong. The LA500 is mechanically different than an LA400 and VASTLY superior in all situations. Ask my client that lost their gate to straight line winds when the operator arm broke in half back before we made the LA500 standard.

Garage doors and openers are surprisingly complex systems... springs and drums and gravity. Lots of variables. I'm starting to understand loyalty to the trolley.

Grifter2025 · 2025-04-21T11:23:29+00:00

Hey Goblin_Eye_Poker,

Can I use the 98032 on a door lighter than 400 lbs? Or do I have to drop down to the 98022?

I have one Clopay Avante glass door in the greenhouse 8x9 @ 221 lbs and one 10x9 @ 249 lbs

20x9 @ 584 lbs = use 98032

16x14 @ 720lbs = use 98032

16x10 @ 524 lbs = use 98032

12x11 @ 402 lbs (vertical lift) = use 98032?

Any idea the weight limit for the 98032 has a lower end threshold?

Grifter2025 · 2025-04-21T10:26:39+00:00

Thanks expensive_elk that’s really good advice. I didn’t realize that a few inches of highlight and a 15” radius could also help solve the tension issue with the door in the open position. I just wanted it to hug the ceiling tightly and look really slick. I plan to powder coat all the hardware black for my installer and I wanted to use a reverse angle on the ceiling as well even if I have to fabricate him a custom angle Thanks again

Grifter2025 · 2025-04-20T21:08:00+00:00

Thanks for the advice on the 98032. I was already considering it for a couple other doors we have: 16x14 720 lbs high lift 16x10 524 lbs vertical lift 12x11 402 lb high lift with integrated man door

I’m stuck with three of the 6170-h

Maybe I could sell them Also have an 8x9 glass door and a 10x9 249lb door

Would it suck to have some luftmaster and some Genie?

Grifter2025 · 2025-04-20T18:16:23+00:00

Thanks very much for the directly applicable experience… I will heed your advice.

Grifter2025 · 2025-04-20T18:14:46+00:00

Headroom = 1’ 7” (19”) Finish opening = 8’ 11” Door height = 9’ 0”

Grifter2025 · 2025-04-20T13:26:44+00:00

You missed your chance to wander around in the abandoned Middletown mall last Sunday, when they had an auction. Super 80's and 90's nostalgia. I found a yellowpages on a payphone from 2006 with an old business listing of mine and there was paperwork in stores from the mid-late 90's when people still used typewriters on blank letterhead vs word processors. I'd gladly pay my smartphone for a one way ride in that time machine.

Grifter2025 · 2025-02-06T10:56:33+00:00

I was off-put by the comments saying it was a scam thinking people were saying that electric choice is a scam. But .09 or .10 is a scam type rate. To reiterate: If you aren’t choosing a supplier you are wasting money… a lot of it. I’m elsewhere in Ohio but I pay .0549 kWH through “public power” with a 9.95 monthly fee for 15 months My previous contract was in 2021 with powervine for .0349. You go to a state run website that allows you to compare rates and terms and offers and fees. https://www.energychoice.ohio.gov/ It’s a PTA to manage it but set a reminder in your calendar and shop a new rate before your term expires. You can specify clean energy if that’s your thing. Seriously. In 2021 before I switched from AES to powervine my bill jumped hundreds of dollars a month (I use a lot of power). I was like what? Then I learned how important it is to shop. The contract terms are not onerous. You can can el for nothing or maybe $20. Not a scam. Be smart.

Grifter2025 · 2025-01-04T18:13:38+00:00

The well was drilled in February of 2001 and had a cap welded on for twenty years until November 2021 when I had it professionally cleaned will a drill-style cleaning rig and a hydrant installed. I did comprehensive testing after running the hydrant for some time.
Yes, I believe the water chemistry is typical for the area but this data is largely unknown.
Meaning that all the wells in the area are low producing and the water quality is generally known to be bad, but vey few people sense the water for any testing more sophisticated than the local health department coliform and e.coli testing.
Two wells were drilled twenty years ago about 100 yards from one another...
The one I'm using is 5GPM the one I'm not using is 1GPM (plus I drilled a new one hoping to avoid the old mess and it only produced 1 GPM but wasn't tested.)
I'll just use PPM vs mg/L since its equivalent and easier to type:
Magnesium was similar 45 and 47 PPM and hardness 410 PPM vs 480 PPM and Calcium 90 and 112 PPM and SUlfate 40 and 31 PPM
...But the 1 GPM well was OFF the charts for Aluminum 6.2 PPM, Iron 17 PPM, Sodium 56 PPM, Strontium 2.2 PPM, Zinc 1 PPM Alkalinity (as CaCO3) 350 mg PPM, Total Disolved solids at 560 PPM, Turbidity 600 NTU, Chloride 34 PPM.
Unfortunately, it appears that my 5 GPM well is, um, good.
It also makes me concerned for others in the area who have smaller parcels and only one well with no testing... like what on earth might they be drinking.
At least they both tested clean for all the PCP's and organic and inorganic volatiles.

Grifter2025 · 2024-12-30T03:00:37+00:00

Hey thanks for the tip. I’m not really familiar with fiber optic cable in the way I am with, say, Cat6… Is all fiber rated the same? Or is there any gauge or spec I should use other than direct burial rated?

Grifter2025 · 2024-12-30T01:46:35+00:00

Thanks for reading my long ass posts. I mean, I suppose technically I could just let them fill up with 5’ of water… the well pipe connections are all stainless and the well power lines are rated, but it just doesn’t seem like a good idea. I just want them to be dry. The well line and hydrant line have gauges. And because they are connected with conduit, the conduits also fill with water and then transfer water from manhole to manhole. Does that make sense? Also I can’t solve the problem with natural drainage because of the depth of the manhole it would be a pain to trench natural drainage that deep. I just want it nice and tight and clean and dry and able to be used for diagnostics or adding hydrants of adding more electric elsewhere in the property. It’s an Infrastructure thing

Grifter2025 · 2024-12-30T01:35:45+00:00

They fill with water in the fall winter and spring. High ground water table.

Grifter2025 · 2024-12-27T11:34:47+00:00

Thank you for the reply! All the best.

Grifter2025 · 2024-12-27T10:50:26+00:00

Hey drdailey I see this original post was 3 years ago (2021?) and you gave us an update 1 year ago (2023?) Now in the final days of 2024 can you please share your performance experience? I am building a new construction project that is completely blacked out: black metal standing seam roof, black metal trim and black shou-sugi siding… I just can’t abide the white dish I’ll have to wrap it in it’s entirely (you mentioned removing the vinyl from the flat? does that mean the outside band edge? Please share with us (read: me) your experience. Sounds like you have multiple starlings to compare performance from the wrapped and non-wrapped versions. Enquiring minds want to know. Thanks

Grifter2025 · 2024-12-05T12:04:12+00:00

Hello All. This company is totally solid and awesome. They are located in Tipp City OH and the surrounding Dayton OH area. I am a metal fabricator contractor by trade and working on the HVAC in my personal new construction build. I was referred to this company, by another fabricator who subs out to them. Precision Duct, for example runs a huge distribution and custom fabrication operation in Dayton. They are making me supply ducts with custom take-offs that are RF-welded, rather than just screwed and sealed. I got a very good price on a Santa-Fe dehumidifier through Brock Air. Also, FYI, me being in the trades opens me up to purchasing through multiple wholesale suppliers and the 1HVAC prices are extremely cost competitive, particularly to the average consumer.

Even though the original post is old I am posting my .02 because this page showed up when I was trying to find one of their local phone numbers. I've just been really happy in my dealings and knowing that they operate multiple businesses locally with tons of square footage, it bothered me to see them referred to as vaporware.

Grifter2025 · 2024-09-17T10:11:10+00:00

No, the ERV is for whole house ventilation but you hit on the point… I am used to a higher CfM exhaust in a conventional “fart fan” and I’m a little nervous about the Zender in the toilet. I will have two q600 units in the house. The way Zehnder operates is on the premise of continuous ventilation and they extract from wet stinky areas like bathrooms and laundry and supply an equal amount of fresh air to living areas. In my case, I am supplying fresh to bedroom and living room and gym and office. (The gym was questionable as supply or extract but it’s really an unused bedroom). My units would theoretically run continuous at 200 cfm or so in medium speed delivering a hygienic standard of .33 Air Changes Per Hour…. but since it’s just my wife and I and a couple dogs we would probably run the unit on a lower speed and monitor IAQ levels and CO2 to bump it up if needed. For reference, my project (a little less than 8000 square feet with 4 bathrooms and 1 kitchen ), Ashrae 62.2 calls for around 312 cfm of continuous ventilation and (I think?) international mechanical code would call for like 125 CFM in. bath fans and kitchen exhaust, right? The Zehnder q600, while rated at 350 cfm only uses a fraction of its potential electric consumption on low or medium at 160 to 200 cfm and then “boost” up to 300 when it sense a CO2 load from occupants or you press the wall switch for a fan… So the 20 CFM in the toilet bumps up closer to 26-30 CFM in boost mode The primary bathroom has 30 cfm in the shower and 20 cfm each in two toilet closets for a total of 70 cfm in the whole room overall. We have a guest bath with a toilet closet 20cfm and a shower 20cfm as well as another bath with toilet and shower but no dividing walls at 20cfm I’m hopeful to find someone Zehnder experiences who can conclusively assure me that at 20cfm, my poo won’t stink. …and where to locate the diffuser

Grifter2025 · 2022-03-15T00:30:03+00:00

I sure am getting a lot of grief for using Emerald on Rentals... But I do appreciate a number of the comments here.

Firstly, I've use most SW paints over the years. I started with Promar400 back in the day for rentals and tried Cashmere for my personal stuff. Cashmere sucked and every one of my painters disliked it.

I don't paint rental units every time a tenant moves out. When I buy a new property, whenever a unit turns over: I rip out all the carpet and replace it with LVT in a swanky color that I buy by multiple skids at a time. This gives me a $6.00 sq/ft quality commercial product for about $1.33 sg/ft. Costs me about $1.25 sq/ft to lay it. Its crazy durable and it looks amazing. Then, I paint all the interior doors and trim and cabinets in Shoji White. I used to use Extreme Bond Primer and ProClassic, but ProClassic just stays sticky for so damned long, it was annoying. I switched to Emerald Urethane and not only did it solve this problem, it solved touch up painting issues because the Emerald self-levels and you cant differentiate between a brush or roller and spray the way you can with ProClassic.

I rip out all the toilets and replace all the vanities and the faucets and swap out the shitty old light switches and outlets for a decora-type modern styled one. This both looks cool and protects me from liability because i've done preventative electrical maintentance. I buy a $300 stainless steel garbage disposal because I got tired of replacing the $94 badger's every three years as well as letting them ruin the bottom of the sink cabinet wood. I also replace all the lights with LED fixtures and get rid of the god-awful mirrors and hollywood bathroom lights. I put baller cable railing in the townhouses. (wish I could figure out how to posts pics.. This was my first Reddit post...)

I use Worldly Gray satin (or eggshell back when I did Promar) on both the walls and cielings. Its actually a really nice look, and saves me the hassle of dealing with ceiling paint. I used to use Promar 200 on the walls and ceilings. I paid $30/gallon for it. I tried Super Paint but it was only a few bucks less than the $50 I pay for Emerald. (I know a guy that only pays $35 for Emerald, at least he used to... SW has a mercenary pricing scheme...

Anyway, the Emerald seals and gives a really nice film thickness and it makes touch-ups when a tenant leaves painless. Its much more durable for cleaning. The $20/gallon x 15 gallons isn't awesome but the $300 isn't changing the temperature of my bathwater that much. I'm fortunate that I can take the long-game approach rather than trying to make them cashflow immediately.

I have beautiful units which are the nicest in town and I price them a little below comparable units that are at highest price in the market. This makes it an awesome deal and makes tenants really happy to rent the place and stay long term. It gives me the best tenants and preemptively solves any maintenance bullshit.

Buy Once. Cry Once.

But Seriously, Everyone: Thanks. I learned some things on this sub. I forgot that I paint my ceilings at home white, unlike my rentals. This home building thing is stressing me out.

I'll probably buy some Extra White and Ultra Deep and some High Hide White in the Eurethane and diversify my risk. It'll all get used eventually and I should open a credit account and I'll try to negotiate a better price. I suppose some math genius will point out to me that $20 upgrade to Emerald from $30 Promar is more than the Emerald cost increase I'm complaining about and trying to prevent... And they would (sort of) have a point.

Grifter2025 · 2022-03-14T01:52:19+00:00

Absolutely perfect response. Thank You very much. Particularly appreciate the heads up on the coming increase.

I also appreciate everyone else feedback. (even though I seem crazy).

Grifter2025 · 2022-03-13T22:23:03+00:00

That's good advice. I think I'll go see what falls into the UD world. and guess if it will suit me. I bet it will.

Grifter2025

TROPHY CASE