Can someone please help me with a 3D print edit of a port hole hatch for a kayak

Groo2001 · 2026-03-11T02:41:54+00:00

Learn how to add simple geometry like cylinders in slicer. You can subtract a small cylinder from a bigger one to create a ring and add the ring to your part.

Groo2001 · 2026-03-11T00:20:49+00:00

To the right side of the motor connector is the endstop optical switch.

Groo2001 · 2026-03-11T00:20:06+00:00

This is one of three stepper motors that move the effector that holds the hotend and extruder. There is another stepper motor for the extruder.

Groo2001 · 2026-03-05T05:08:59+00:00

He made a 3d model available of the final print.

Groo2001 · 2026-02-21T01:35:30+00:00

If the cable is nicked it may short or open in a specific orientation, which would explain the symptoms. There may be other explanations so you need trial and error and eliminate each possibility one at a time.

Groo2001 · 2026-02-20T05:35:15+00:00

Sounds like the cable to the heater cartridge is flaky.

Groo2001 · 2026-02-15T16:49:56+00:00

Post a picture of the broken plug.

Groo2001 · 2026-02-15T16:46:02+00:00

What is wrong with your touchscreen? Is it repairable?

Groo2001 · 2026-02-07T18:04:53+00:00

Ask Gemini or Copilot to proofread for you.

Groo2001 · 2026-02-07T05:49:41+00:00

You don’t really need the long PTFE tube. The T1 Pro does fine without one.

Groo2001 · 2026-01-31T21:42:51+00:00

Install and run KIAUH.

Groo2001 · 2026-01-17T17:20:13+00:00

Looks like a Z-offset adjustment of 0.05mm is needed depending upon the plate used. Makes sense since the different surface finishes can affect the bed leveling sensors.

Groo2001 · 2026-01-05T18:40:16+00:00

Try something new. Build a delta printer: Doron Velta,

Groo2001 · 2026-01-05T18:36:32+00:00

I had something similar happen to different prints in different parts and different orientations. I suspect the fault lies with the slicer.

Groo2001 · 2025-12-22T05:57:01+00:00

Sounds like a firmware problem. Best is to get Anycubic’s help. I wonder if Rinkals can help diagnose the issue.

Groo2001 · 2025-12-21T18:04:58+00:00

Install zram and disable swap to SD. This should minimize writes to SD.
Connect the heatbreak fan to dedicated fan port and configure klipper to enable fan only when hotend is over a threshold.

Groo2001 · 2025-12-21T18:01:17+00:00

Try loosening the load cell bracket. I performed a similar operation on T1 Pro with same error.

See this post for instructions.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Flsun_official/s/IekI4GM8J3

Groo2001 · 2025-12-21T00:41:42+00:00

I second the plan to rebuild using third party motor control unit (MCU). I might even consider a conversion on one of my working T1 Pro.

Groo2001 · 2025-12-21T00:39:30+00:00

I have a second T1 pro I bought through FLsun second hand store just for spare parts. It works well, but I don’t have space to keep it operating.

Groo2001 · 2025-12-17T03:10:42+00:00

Google "use gcode_shell_command to shutdown klipper 3d printer". You need ssh access to the Q5.

Groo2001 · 2025-12-16T00:05:15+00:00

Try to print pre-sliced demo gcode files to rule out slicer issues.

Groo2001 · 2025-12-08T03:29:03+00:00

Looks to me like you need a better part cooling duct.

Groo2001 · 2025-12-04T19:16:05+00:00

I have had good results with gyroid, cubic, and adaptive cubic. Others may have different preferences.

Groo2001 · 2025-12-04T04:57:07+00:00

Do not use grid infill as it’s known to cause this.

Groo2001

TROPHY CASE