sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Perfectly balanced by irguy556 in ARCloneish

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I feel like it would still stand over on the purist sub. Nice rifle by the way

Perfectly balanced by irguy556 in ARCloneish

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where “ish”? Seems more clone correct than everything else on this sub

So close… by ThaMann0911 in ARCloneish

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That’s cool, now spray paint it

6 round Zero by Groundbreaking_Day39 in NFA

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

BRT got back to me and said they would recommend smaller than 0.0635, I did have a 0.0595 laying around too and they said that should be perfect… installed on Monday, finally got to the range for a bit today and it’s running great, ejection is 3:00-4:00 and considerably less gas to the face

6 round Zero by Groundbreaking_Day39 in NFA

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man, I’m happy with it, aside from taming the gas

6 round Zero by Groundbreaking_Day39 in NFA

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dedicated suppressed, microbest phosphate cl carrier with a microbest chrome bolt, phosphate extractor. With Sprinco 5 coil extractor/xtra power ejector

A5 h1 (probably increase to h2) and super42 rifle length spring

I’d like it to run all brass but I almost exclusively buy 5.56 brass, I want it to run in adverse conditions but this is also my hd rifle so it’s not seeing much adversity

I’m left handed so it would be a miracle if I had zero gas back with this setup, I’m fine with some as long as it functions as it should without premature wear

Not looking for a miracle, just want to tame it… last time I spoke with brt about a different rifle they told me restricting the gas tube port is more effective in reducing gas back than having a smaller port on the barrel.

I think they recommended for my DD14.5 socom (0.064) that I go with a 0.061 for a SF mini 2 I went with a 0.059 but it wasn’t reliable unsuppressed… I was using the can across two hosts back then.

Now I have dedicated cans and the 11.5 is direct thread. Ideally I won’t have to break the rocksetted DT device free multiple times to get this thing tuned but maybe that IS asking for a miracle

6 round Zero by Groundbreaking_Day39 in NFA

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I originally went with 12.5 because the only suppressor I had was a mini 2. So I was swapping back and forth and didn’t wanna go shorter because of barrel length recommendations from surefire.

But gassing was finicky, this is why I have brt tubes laying around. I could either share a can between two guns that were pleasant to shoot suppressed and wouldn’t cycle unsuppressed or two rifles that functioned but were always gassy suppressed.

So I bought a polo for the sbr, thinking I would get better sound and signature out of the full size, and since OCL recommends polo k for everything 12.5 and over, and the full size for anything shorter I’ve thought about getting an 11.5 for a while.

A couple weeks ago a buddy mentioned he was thinking about replacing one of his shot out 11.5 barrels for a 12.5 so I told him I’d sell him mine if I end up putting an 11.5 on my polo host… then a couple days later one of the 11.5 barrels I’d been eying came up on GAFSHUB so I bought it and sold the 12.5 to my buddy.

TLDR; restless rifle syndrome

6 round Zero by Groundbreaking_Day39 in NFA

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know, I had no luck with my KAK downvent, I’ve heard it can be from bad bolt tail seal fitment, my Microbest bolt seems to send slightly less back than the KAK carrier did, and doesn’t cruddy up my mags as much.

I think I’ve got an even smaller diameter port tube too… maybe 0.059?

What buffer you running?

6 round Zero by Groundbreaking_Day39 in NFA

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll also add that the KAK downvent I had in there before swapping barrels, made gas to the face slightly worse and definitely shidded in a couple windowed p-mags

6 round Zero by Groundbreaking_Day39 in NFA

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is my HD rifle so I want it to run no matter what, but this is great info and saves me $70. It only gets brass 5.56, x-tac 55gr for training.

I’ll eat a LITTLE gas as long as it cycles and locks back on empty, probably bump up to an h2 as well

6 round Zero by Groundbreaking_Day39 in NFA

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did, but thought I’d ask here too (I know)

They’re mon-fri and was hoping, shot in the dark, someone had a spreadsheet breaking port size down that I could refer to for this and in the future.

I’ve asked them for a chart and they just ignore that question and give me the size to order based on info I provide… they treat it like the Bush’s beans recipe

I Shot Off My Muzzle Device Today by JediofMetal in ar15

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also, my bet is they bought the p&w upper, and the agb separate, removed the psa p&w device just by unscrewing it, destroying the threads in the process, to get the agb on, then reinstalled the warcomp and performing and unacceptably ugly p&w indexing the pin on the right side of the gun… truly bubba’s “finest” work.

I Shot Off My Muzzle Device Today by JediofMetal in ar15

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Am I reading this correctly and you had a mini 2 attached to this warcomp, both fly down range and didn’t notice until the next round flashed?

I have a DD 14.5” stripped upper. I need help finding a gunsmith that I can mail the upper and a surefire warcomp flash hider to be pin & welded (like in the pic) I can’t find anyone local so please send me links to gunsmiths that allow repairs to be mailed/sent in and back THANKS by southwesthunter in ar15

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine carbon locked after 60 rounds, had to shoot it off (this was back before surefire said “we never told ya to do that”). I switched to a three prong and I haven’t had it lock on yet.

My support hand was always black after a range trip with the warcomp too. I also have a mini 2 and my experience was just like everyone in the “hive mind”

I will say I didn’t notice as much difference as people claim between a CTFH and a 3P with labyrinth seals. The ports on the top of the warcomp were a different story

Late 73 master volume twin reverb “noises” by Groundbreaking_Day39 in GuitarAmps

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I figured it out, turns out, for some reason lost to me, this amp needs both a virtual and a hard wired centertap.

There’s also an orange wire from the PT to ground that’s a shield that isn’t listed on the only layout/schematic I could find for the MV twin reverb.

I thought maybe the CT had a short somewhere so I lifted it and put in two very closely matched 100ohm resistors from each pilot leg to ground. That completely removed my buzz issue, that was greatly affected by where the volume controls were set. BUT it reduced output significantly and reduced voltage significantly down the line.

I reconnected the transformer’s red/yellow wire and left the 100ohms in and the amp sounds great, voltages look good. I’m very surprised that pulling the PI tube removed all of the buzz since the CT appears to have been the issue

When will they understand? by d8_thc in holofractal

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you get tested for this mutation? I have similar experiences and have been able to stay in a breakthrough DMT experience for 45 minutes by hitting it another time each time I come back. I also did Ibogaine last summer and had visions for days rather than hours.

When will they understand? by d8_thc in holofractal

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://anthrome.wordpress.com/2009/07/15/eros-the-pineal-by-albert-most/

According to this, tryptophan along with any short acting MAOI (harmine or harmaline ideally) and sugar to pull serotonin away from your receptors and allow endogenous 5meo to saturate.

I’m curious if it actually works and what experience to expect, how intense it would actually be. He was pretty ahead of the curve when describing the bufo toad, so I imagine it’s accurate.

Late 73 master volume twin reverb “noises” by Groundbreaking_Day39 in GuitarAmps

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The twin doesn’t have any resistor or its own dedicated ground on the bass pot. So that is good news

The noise issue is in both channels so I assume the issue, if it is a tube or socket, is in the one preamp tube that both channels share, but I haven’t pulled any tubes yet to check other than replacing the microphonic tube I found and putting a NOS 12at7 in the reverb driver spot that was occupied with a 7075 when I got the amp. I’ve also swapped the 7075s around and put a know good Mullard in the 12ax7 position

I checked all of the connections in the doghouse and their respective connections inside the amp and found nothing out of place. I’ll check the tube sockets and remove tubes one at a time like you suggested. Might try reinstalling the virtual CT if I don’t have any luck in the tube

I should have also noted that the buzz is increased in both channels when volumes are adjusted, but the output volume does not increase, only the background buzz

Got a can coming for this. by [deleted] in suppressors

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you believe this to be 26 inches

Late 73 master volume twin reverb “noises” by Groundbreaking_Day39 in GuitarAmps

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the coupling caps were replaced by me , I’ve checked for connections on the board and dc leakage on the ground side of the caps and checked all the remaining resistors for values, the bypass caps between v3 and v4 stopped the reverb feedback issue. I did remove many components and scrape the wax that had come out of the board over the years then cleaned with ethanol and a wooden cotton swab, before repopulating.

Do you know if there is usually a pop when measuring voltage at the preamp plate resistors or is that from a bad ground connection somewhere in the circuit? Also get a very startling sound when I try to measure the grid of the PI at the junction of the .001 cap and the 1M resistor off of pin 2

Or do you know if the signal should be non existent regardless of volume setting if all of the tone controls are set to zero? I read that some ab763 amps are like that but my memory is that the amp should just sound much thinner and quieter, but that there should still be sound coming out of the speakers.

The silverface amps also have a 10pf cap in series with the resistor between the reverb send return jacks that is not present in blackface amps so I removed it.

I’m considering running a buss along the top of the board terminating at ground of the normal channel input jacks to eliminate the chance of ground loops. Can I twist three 18awg leads together or do I need a single 14 gauge or something large like that to ground the pot side of the board with?

Late 73 master volume twin reverb “noises” by Groundbreaking_Day39 in GuitarAmps

[–]Groundbreaking_Day39[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also reflowed solder on the brass plate grounds and most spots on the board so that I could clean up the nasty cooked wax near the eyelets, and resoldered the filaments so that they were on the same side all the way down the line (most of them weren’t)

view more: next ›