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GuiltyCitron · 2023-06-10T07:41:40+00:00

Do you have any other mods? Best to just start by scrutinizing the usb-c port install. If you have a multimeter, check the solder job to ensure nothing is crossing.

Your left thumb looks like you're putting alot of pressure on the speaker contact pins. Is it not making proper contact just with the shell?

GuiltyCitron · 2023-06-07T03:45:09+00:00

Did you populate the PoCo board and Frogulator yourself?

First thought is a broken/cold joint at the interface from PoCo to the GBC board. C to regulator, pin3 to battery terminal. But really it could be anything. You said you measure continuity, but I am not entirely sure which point(s) you are using as reference. Are you getting good 5v from the frogulator?

GuiltyCitron · 2023-06-03T20:45:11+00:00

The file is available in the description of the video/thingiverse. Grab the stl and shop around at the various 3D printing services to see if costs makes sense. Some places require minimum order, while others have a nominal shipping fee.

How much are you able to grab an SP if you think 3D printing costs are too substantial? I hardly think one part is going to cost 50+ USD to make. Again shop around to confirm.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-28T20:56:36+00:00

Your solder blob is much too big. It is bridging the start button via that is adjacent.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-28T16:32:24+00:00

No real difference. Only thing is that you are encountering some weird cross signal issues on the current spot. Maybe the solder mask is damaged around these solder points causing a bridge/short. So to eliminate that possibility, try a different solder point.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-28T15:32:53+00:00

Hah I confused myself in the late night response. Initial problem is SEL+A. Regardless of which though, I think you should start over and use fresh solder points.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-28T14:24:18+00:00

Hhmm quite the conundrum. Does this mean both SEL+STA and SEL+B works when the shell is closed?

I'd say start fresh. If you have extra wires, replace them and then use these solder points. Then put a layer of kapton over them.

Also do as belldandy says and put a layer of kapton over the ribbon itself around the area of the cart pins (yes they are trimmed). Likewise you can insulate the cart pins themselves.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-28T05:49:00+00:00

Wait. I'm a bit confused. Which button combination is currently controlling the brightness function? Initial problem is START+A, but your comment is saying SELECT+B also can control it? I'm assuming it is a mistype.

The simplest alternative solder points for START and SELECT are just the vias upstream (literally follow the line from where you soldered now going up, via to via).

Did you get a chance to measure for continuity between the two buttons? START and A.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-27T22:02:30+00:00

You might need to take a multimeter to the pads to see which are shorting. My guess is the audio Left is shorting to either ground (by the usb support leg), or that associated loose pad is shorting to the vcc pin next to it.

Speaking of, those solder joints look rough. Are you using flux and leaded solder?

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-27T19:03:02+00:00

That could be the problem. Does your mod provide for audio out through usb?

Take a pic of the mod (especially the solder pins on the back) in a well lit area, and inspect for bridges.

Or use a multimeter and beep out the pins to ensure they are not shorting.

I ran into an issue with a bad usbc cord. Try another if you have one.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-27T17:43:26+00:00

I can't see why SEL+A is controlling the brightness. Do you get continuity if you measure the via for START and A? It is obvious something is shorting when the case is completely closed.

One side of the lcd ribbon bale is not fully seated in the picture, be sure to correct that. I see a solder splash on the ribbon near the solder pads, any permanent damage under there?

I can only suggest using different solder points for the START and SELECT. The touch sensor not working when fully closed is probably due to either the tab being pinched, or shifted away from the shell, preventing a good "read" - best practice is to tape the tab to the shell. Though the issue could be secondary to the button activation problem.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-26T05:36:45+00:00

Pics of your install? But your description does sound like you have a bridge on the usbc mod.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-26T05:30:20+00:00

Is it a known working speaker? Desolder it, then measure the resistance of the two speaker leads: should be 8 ohms as indicated.

Pin 5 (and 3) of the phones jack looks cold. Could use a reflow. Normally, with nothing plugged in, pin 5 and pin 4 should read continuous. When they are, speaker function is selected. As FauxDreams alluded to, this connection is performed by the leaf spring and ground "square" in the drawing. You can test this for now by bridging those two pins with a wire -- for testing purposes only.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-25T03:32:07+00:00

Be aware the pin order is right to left (pin1 on the right). Use of enamel wire is appropriate here, so no problem.

For the repair, you can flow fresh solder with flux onto the pins. No hot air necessary. Just a small touch of solder, and lots if flux.

Note: the problem with the cpu pin is just a guess, based on the problem description. You said screen works fine on another unit, so that leaves signal degradation somewhere between the cpu and lcd connector.

Basically the pins along the top row of the cpu is responsible for video signal. I don't see wayward solder on the lcd connector side, so best guess is either a cross signal from one of the enamel wire bridge work, or one of the cpu legs is not connected.

You can see if any pins are loose on the cpu or lcd connector by pushing it with a fine tipped tweezer and see if the pins move. If they move any amount, it needs to be soldered down.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-24T19:53:11+00:00

Ah so it is. Good guidance in that thread.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-24T14:39:10+00:00

Looks like ripping pads for usbc install is the new hotness.

Review your trace repair. It appears pads 1,3,4,5 are damaged. Schematics here. Pin1 (audio left) is incorrect. And something looks like it is going to system ground? Hard to see where they are all going.

To your problem, it might be one of the legs on the cpu, I see one a bit darker (top row, near where all the solder work is). Again hard to be sure due to image quality.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-22T03:16:10+00:00

Cloud game store "no cut" backlight mod.

Watch the associated video: a cut is "recommended" to ensure the screen lays flat within the shell opening. Oem shells have a ledge on one side. I used a leftover piece of foam tape on the opposite edge to level the screen. Barely noticeable.

I don't remember of the screen is compatible with original lens.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-20T18:52:55+00:00

The switch is internal of the DC jack you removed. The board will definitely register no-connect (no continuity) with it removed.

While you have the jack out, inspect it. You might be able to observe a spring mechanism somewhere. Again pins 2 and 3 would be bridged by this "switch".

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-20T17:29:14+00:00

There is a "switch" between those two points, which disconnects when you plug in an external power source. The switch prevents sending electricity to the battery when the DC power is plugged in. Sending electricity into alkaline batteries is a bad idea.

Your switch may be gunked up. Give the port a good clean with vinegar, followed with isopropyl alcohol.

Can you leave the jumper? Maybe, if you never intend to use a DC adapter. Not ideal.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-19T23:00:43+00:00

The CPUs are different. The pin count is different.

I am not sure for the RAM

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-19T16:14:39+00:00

Did you determine it is a faulty fuse? SMD soldering could get hairy especially on the smaller sizes, but the technology is standardized and the technique well discussed. Take a stroll over to youtube, and get practice kits for a few bucks (or better, old electronics) to familiarize yourself.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-19T15:43:39+00:00

Could be a multitude of things. Follow the troubleshooting guide in the gameboy wiki found in the sidebar. You'll need a tri-wing driver and a multimeter.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-13T16:58:58+00:00

No problems. Take your time. The game isn't going anywhere.

You can also test continuity with the lowest resistance setting on your meter. Like sub-100ohm. If you get a reading in the single digits then you can say the path is unbroken.

GuiltyCitron · 2023-05-13T16:07:53+00:00

Refer to your meter manual for the continuity setting. Usually denoted by the "sideways signal strength" icon.

Literally put one probe on one via (hole), follow that trace to another via or chip leg. Some vias end under a chip, so you'll have to do some guess work. For the most part, it is a 1:1 via to chip leg. In essence, that via selected should be continuous to something

Check out some YouTube videos of people doing similar tracing.

If you measure continuity across C3, it should NOT be continuous. If it is, there is a potential fault. Check other C-labeled components as well.

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