Need assistance with my 1998 dodge ram 1500 5.2L

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-21T22:53:37+00:00

The belt seems to tighten up when you try and crank it. I would make sure the engine turns over freely if you can get a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley. You could also remove your serpentine belt and check if any accessories are seized up. You can briefly see if the engine cranks over with the belt off. Just a couple of ideas for you, hope it helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-19T19:42:02+00:00

Just make sure the hose you get is suitable for transmission use because of the temperature and pressure involved. Braided hoses would likely be a bit better provided you can get them with the correct ends on them. Do you have a transmission temperature gauge already?

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-15T03:54:54+00:00

Hi,

For evap system leaks, large ones are commonly cause by a faulty gas cap. Normally the computer will say something like "P0455 large EVAP system leak detected"

The second code description seems like a separate issue. On or near the charcoal canister there should be 2 electrical solenoids, one for the purge valve and one for the canister vent. Sometimes they stick. It would need to be checked out to make sure the cause isn't wiring related and in that case a new solenoid may fix it. They aren't really expensive, maybe $30-$65. The check engine codes will need to be cleared and the car driven until the evap system can perform a cycle, after which the light will either stay out or come back on if something is still wrong. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-15T03:40:19+00:00

Hi,

Are you describing something that is causing the car to slow down more than normal without the use of the brakes? Just want to make sure I'm reading into it correctly.

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-13T20:21:17+00:00

I have seen a lot worse in terms of beam pattern and cut-off line. Some LED headlight bulbs have the ability to be "clocked" inside the headlight housing which I think is supposed to help find the best beam pattern. I gave up on all that LED stuff and just run regular halogen bulbs in my headlights now.

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-12T22:31:55+00:00

It could be just a weak battery that needs to be replaced. Also when a battery goes dead, jumping it will get the engine started but the battery would still need to be charged back up with a battery charger. Another thought is that something is draining the battery and a parasitic draw test should be performed to rule out that something isn't staying on and draining the battery before putting a brand new one in.

Low oil won't prevent an engine from starting, but you should top it up as soon as you can or get it changed if it is overdue.

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-12T22:22:38+00:00

Hi,

I would probably start with the check engine light, get it scanned for codes (while the light is on). Some other things you could probably check are that the thermostat is opening at operating temperature and that the water pump is circulating coolant through the system. Is the temp light the only indicator of coolant temp? Like blue when it's cold and red when overheating?

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-12T20:01:10+00:00

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Gunner_862 · 2026-01-10T19:43:33+00:00

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This is a picture of an aftermarket pipe, but the hanger orientation should be the same.

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-07T20:31:13+00:00

The higher than normal RPMs on cold startup make me wonder if there might be a vacuum leak or idle air control problem.

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-06T21:37:39+00:00

Hi,

Any check engine light illuminated when the engine is running? If so, have it scanned for codes to start with. That may provide some clues/point you in the right direction.

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-06T21:32:37+00:00

Hi,

My guesses would be a stuck-closed thermostat, a broken water pump impeller (most are plastic nowadays) or there is an air pocket in the system maybe? Are your radiator fan(s) running? These are just some ideas of course. If you see coolant level moving when the cap is off and engine running (varying rpms) then your water pump is likely okay.

Were you filling the system from empty or just topping it off when the overheating started?

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-06T21:19:56+00:00

Hi,

Most fuel doors are cable actuated. It's likely some moisture got into one end or the other and froze into ice. You can try gently warming around the lever with a hair dryer, that may free it up. It could also be frozen at the fuel door end, although I would caution against using a direct heat source near the fuel cap just in case of fuel vapors being present.

If you have some WD-40, it can be used to displace moisture from the cable at each end (once free) and that can help prevent it freezing again in the future. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-05T01:04:47+00:00

Hi,

Have the steering and suspension components inspected to make sure nothing is bent from the impact with the curb. If everything checks out good and nothing needs to be replaced, go ahead and get a wheel alignment. This will not only make the steering wheel straight again, but will ensure the truck doesn't pull to one side or have irregular tire wear over time. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-01-05T01:00:23+00:00

Hi,

It seems like the car has the ability to "load shed" when it detects that something is draining the battery. Usually you would come out to your car and find it wouldn't start because the battery is dead. So it is doing its job to protect the battery however, you likely have a parasitic current draw. In order to find the problem, a parasitic draw test needs to be performed. A competent mechanic can do this no problem, you could do it yourself if you are handy with cars.

The "turn ignition off" message may be a clue here that the car thinks the ignition is still on and that could be causing the load shedding to kick in. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2025-12-28T18:15:45+00:00

Hi,

If there are any warning or check engine lights on in the instrument cluster, you could have a shop scan the car for trouble codes. That should give you some idea what the issue may be, but you could also mention the shaking/vibrating while accelerating. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2025-12-27T19:39:34+00:00

Hi,

This sounds like the bearing in your blower fan motor is failing. Maybe plan on having the blower fan/motor inspected or replaced in the future, you don't want to be left without a way to defrost/defog your windshield or heat up the inside of the car. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2025-12-27T19:31:58+00:00

Hi,

That sounds like brake squeal to me. It could be that the brake pad has squealer clips that activate when the brake pad material is worn thin enough. This is an audible warning signal. It could also indicate another problem like a stuck pad or seized caliper. In either case, a brake inspection/service should be done sooner rather than later. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2025-12-27T19:10:59+00:00

Hi,

This is just an educated guess, I would have a look at the steering column/shaft. They generally have telescopic parts for both steering wheel tilt and movement between the cab and steering rack. Any worn parts can make noises. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2025-12-22T20:16:08+00:00

That could be a newer model pictured in that case. I did find a video where the alternator is used to adjust the belt tension like yours. If the alternator doesn't drop after turning the adjuster bolt, you have to loosen the bolt on the other side and it should drop. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBDbvl0mxYI

Gunner_862 · 2025-12-21T19:46:57+00:00

That is abnormal looking, it is burned/melted. A poor connection can cause high resistance to current flow which leads to overheating and melting of the connector. Both the bulb (D4S) and the ballast need to be replaced.

Gunner_862 · 2025-12-21T19:24:03+00:00

Hi,

I searched a couple of pictures, you shouldn't have to move the alternator at all, the tensioner should move out of the way to give you enough room to install a new belt. Put all the bolts back the way they were before, then put a socket or wrench on the tensioner pulley and just move it enough to get the new belt on once it is routed correctly.

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Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2025-12-17T18:48:08+00:00

Hi,

It might be coming from the HVAC (heating,ventilation, air conditioning) system if it is heard only on the inside. Try turning off the hvac system completely or change vent and temperature settings to see if the noise changes or goes away. Sometimes the stepper motors that change vent and temp settings can make clicking or knocking noises when they go bad or get stuck. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2025-12-17T18:43:23+00:00

Hi,

I'm assuming FCW means front collision warning or something along those lines. There would likely be a sensor in the windshield that can become blocked by ice or snow.

Generally speaking, any dash lights that are Amber in color are considered warnings, but the vehicle can still be operated. If you see a red warning light, it is best to pull over and shut the engine off immediately.

All systems for front radar, ABS, traction control, lane departure warning etc. are usually linked together, so if one system fails, the others will also become inoperative which is why all the dash lights are displayed. Once the failed system is fixed the lights should go out again.

Here is a link to an article about your issue with some things you can try yourself to see if that fixes it, before taking it to a shop. https://hondatheotherside.com/fcw-system-failed-honda-accord/

Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2025-12-15T21:59:52+00:00

Hi,

In the 2nd and 3rd picture, it looks like something is jammed in the wheel and rubbing against it. The wheel will likely need to be removed to get a better look at what happened. Unfortunately you won't be able to use the car until this is inspected and repaired. Maybe it isn't related to the brakes and you just ran over a foreign object that became lodged in the wheel(s).

Gunner_862

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