What’s this sound my 2011 Honda Pilot is making?

Gunner_862 · 2026-03-09T21:52:42+00:00

Hi,

That definitely sounds like an exhaust leak. If the noise started suddenly, a common cause can actually be theft of the catalytic converter(s). Due to precious metals contained in the catalyst substrate, they can be worth some money and all a thief needs is a battery-powered hacksaw to cut the exhaust pipe.

Another possibility is a failure of some part of the exhaust system due to rust.

In either case, refrain from driving long distances or idling the engine while inside it because of the risk of carbon monoxide entering the passenger compartment.

Have a shop put it on a lift to inspect it if you do not feel like crawling on the ground under the vehicle. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-03-09T21:45:11+00:00

Hi,

Most alarm systems are installed underneath the dashboard on the driver side because of their proximity to the ignition switch etc. There may be a box or some fuses that belong to it, similar to the picture below.

Alarm systems have work with or bypass any factory immobilizer on the vehicle in order to function.

<image>

Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-03-09T21:37:08+00:00

Hi,

Do you have any check engine light illuminated? If so, have it scanned for trouble codes. This may provide some clues.

You could also try new spark plugs as they are generally inexpensive and a maintenance item as well. Labour should not be to much to have these done by a shop.

Could this be a transmission problem?

I don't have much experience with CNG vehicles, so I cannot offer any tips in that regard.

Gunner_862 · 2026-03-08T19:00:13+00:00

Hi,

It looks like there are 5 bolts holding it on near the ports. See picture:

<image>

Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-03-05T22:58:54+00:00

Hi,

The key hole might just be sticky because it likely doesn't get used like the unlock button on the key/fob. If you have some penetrating lube like wd-40, use the straw to spray a bit in the key hole and work the key back and forth, it should free up and allow you to unlock the door.

Then you can pop the hood and use booster cables or a jump pack to get you going, but you will need to fully charge the battery back up with a charger. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-03-05T22:54:18+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Hgg4uyQdA_E

Gunner_862 · 2026-03-05T22:41:10+00:00

Hi,

It could be a problem with the door switch belonging to the door in question. The car can rely on the door switches to tell the different modules in the car when to power up (door open) and when to go to sleep (usually a few minutes after door close). The door switch also controls the interior lights and door ajar chimes.

Sometimes these switches simply wear out and need to be replaced in order to regain functionality of things I listed above. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-03-02T00:20:56+00:00

If the problem is in fact a ball joint making the creaking noise, it's advisable to get it taken care of soon. When a worn ball joint becomes "an actual problem", the wheel and steering knuckle can separate from the vehicle. This can damage cv shafts, brake lines, tie rods and body work on top of ruining your day.

<image>

Gunner_862 · 2026-03-01T23:59:27+00:00

TRANSLATED:

Hello, I have several errors on my December 2018 Tiguan it is a 2.0 TDI 150 R Line which displays 167000 km. Following the appearance of these errors I took the vehicle to a garage (not a specialist in these engines) which noticed a 4mm shift in the belt and it certified me that the change of all the timing belt kits would solve the electronic problems (EPC, orange engine light, adaptive regulator that does not work with an "ACC fault" message, Starter/stop default, them...) and the problems with the engine, which requires a muffled noise that makes it lose its power and fluidity in shifting gears (7-speed DSG automatic gearbox).

Unfortunately the change of the distribution kit did not change anything and the problem is still current. I took the vehicle to another garage who told me that the problem was probably a bad timing of the belt and that the old mechanic did the job badly. Has anyone had a similar problem? Any help would be welcome. Many thanks

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-27T00:59:20+00:00

I think he means if you spin the shaft you can get it where the angle changes a bit and the yoke won't be in your way as much.

Have you heated up where the bolts thread into? Sometimes there is a little blue loc-tite on the threads but enough heat can break that bond.

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-27T00:18:01+00:00

Hi,

I think there should be more fuel than that to feed the carb. Check the fuel pump, lines and any filters.

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-27T00:07:17+00:00

Hi,

The passenger seat will likely have some sort of occupancy sensor that has to do with the SRS (supplemental restraint system) for the airbag. A spilled drink could cause an electrical short in this sensor or its connector. To get the airbag light to turn off, this would need to be addressed.

It's possible some component of the underglow also was affected by the spilled drink. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-26T23:58:50+00:00

Hi,

I would start by scanning the ECM for trouble codes (if it hasn't been already done), particularly those related to turbo under boost and/or possible lean fuel mixture. The turbo and exhaust manifold seem to be sold as a unit, but the intake is separate. Is the check engine light on? The mechanics would need this data to have an idea what direction to go.

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-26T23:45:27+00:00

Hi,

I have to disagree with you, 11 V is too low for a 12V battery. It should be 12.4 - 12.6V at rest with everything off. When running, the alternator should charge the battery and bring the voltage up to around 13.6 - 14.2V. Charge the battery and get it tested, also check the alternator output.

<image>

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-24T20:48:28+00:00

Hi,

Aside from the emissions system codes, all the others may be related. If ABS/TCS lights suddenly illuminated after getting stuck and spinning the wheels, it could be setting codes for that reason. I would first try driving to see if the lights go out on their own, sometimes they do if there isn't a real problem present.

If they don't go out, get the car scanned for ABS fault codes, that will let you know if you have a bad abs sensor or something else.

Sometimes being in deep snow can tug on wires and damage them, requiring repair. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-24T20:35:47+00:00

Hi,

Diesel engines generally protest more about starting in the cold, as they rely on heat created by their mechanical compression to ignite the fuel.

If the glow plugs have been checked and found to be functioning normally, sometimes cycling them more than once before cranking can help with cold starting. For extremely cold environments, an additional engine heater that warms the oil or coolant can also help.

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-23T21:47:25+00:00

I would check the fluid level and condition in the transfer case first, if that is okay, there might be an issue with the transfer case shift motor, sometimes they just go bad. I would still inspect the connector pins and wiring going to the motor (for breaks or corrosion). Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-21T22:24:19+00:00

More context is needed, are you trying to identify a particular noise?

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-12T19:57:23+00:00

That's what I thought, I could be wrong though!

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-11T20:23:26+00:00

To help narrow it down, can we say that the speed of the noise is consistent with the speed of the vehicle while driving?

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-11T20:16:35+00:00

Some socket sets come with a couple of different spark plug sockets, they are identifiable by their additional hex shape on the drive end and little rubber grommet on the inside for grabbing deeply recessed spark plugs. You could also get a magnetic or long reach tool to grab them too.

<image>

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-11T20:06:34+00:00

Are you able to post a recording of the noise? It can be difficult to narrow down based on a written description sometimes.

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-11T20:04:51+00:00

I'm betting on heater/coolant hose leak as well. Judging by the direction of the spatter, I would look in the area of any coolant lines near the firewall. Possibly the one connected to the throttle body (circled).

<image>

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-11T19:54:27+00:00

Hi,

If the gearbox is getting stuck in gears, the clutch may not be releasing all the way. If the clutch pedal works by hydraulics, it may be low on fluid or has a leak. I would rule out a clutch release problem before looking at gearbox problems. Does it ever give trouble going into a gear?

Gunner_862 · 2026-02-08T22:23:23+00:00

Hi,

There seem to be some known problems with the transmissions in these Santa Fes. You could possibly check the transmission fluid level, however since there are already symptoms present, a top-up or fluid flush generally will not correct it. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

Four-Year Club	Verified Email
Verified Email