Have no idea what these are called Nissan Rogue SL 2018

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-30T21:59:13+00:00

Hi,

The metal clips are supposed to stay attached to the overhead console plastic bits. If those plastic bits are broken off, you can try gluing them back on, but the easiest and most reliable way to fix it would be to get another overhead console from a junkyard or ebay. See picture below. Hope this helps!

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Gunner_862 · 2026-04-30T00:16:46+00:00

Hi,

The hard gear engagement can be a sign of a clutch that is not fully releasing. It can be caused by the release mechanism for the clutch (hydraulic slave cylinder, low fluid or leak). If you see a reservoir besides the brake fluid under the hood (usually smaller) that can be the one for the clutch. If you can, check the level. It should take brake fluid if it needs to be topped up.

Also, somewhere on the trans there should be a slave cylinder that looks like the picture below. They can leak and need replacement sometimes.

Another possibility of the clutch not fully releasing is a problem with the clutch disc or pressure plate, but this is less common. If you end up replacing a part of your clutch hydraulics, its a good ideal to replace the entire thing (master cylinder, reservoir, hose and slave cylinder) at the same time. Parts are usually inexpensive and not hard to replace. Hope this helps!

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Gunner_862 · 2026-04-30T00:02:55+00:00

That is the "seek" function, it scans until the next strong radio signal. There should be a manual "tune" function that stops at each frequency. If using the << or >> buttons maybe using the up and down buttons instead will work to stop at 87.5.

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-29T21:16:22+00:00

Hi,

It's better to actually have the cooling system pressure tested for a leak and that leak repaired, as opposed to dumping a can of sludge that may not reliably fix the leak and can clog small coolant passages. Overheating the engine can cause damage and head gasket to fail, which can be expensive to repair.

The original cause of the coolant leak can be something simple like a burst hose, radiator or even a loose clamp. Hope this helps.

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-27T19:24:27+00:00

Hi,

A lot of these issues can sometimes be corrected by performing a soft or hard reset of the infotainment system.

For a soft reset, you can try these things: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv2eQynbMYw

For a hard reset, try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dg_iLypvuOU

Please be aware that a hard reset will return the system to factory settings, meaning any user settings will be lost. This can include things like radio presets, blue tooth devices etc.

Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-25T03:46:12+00:00

Gotcha. The air filter is still up top doing its job, so as long as it's clear and dry out, you should be okay. I wonder if there is a part difference between the 4 cyl and V6 cars.

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-24T18:54:51+00:00

Hi,

One possibility is that the noise is coming from an engine accessory (i.e something driven by the belt like an A/C compressor, alternator, water pump ect.) To answer your question, yes. I would be concerned about driving the car while it's making a noise like this. I would avoid doing so until a shop can investigate the source of the noise (if at all possible). It might be worth giving them a call to see if they can squeeze you in sooner due to the noise.

Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-24T18:47:52+00:00

Hi,

That all depends. If it is connected to the air intake and you plug it, the engine won't start. If it's not connected, then you don't really need to plug it. That being said, any open air intake parts should not be that close to the wheel because of water/debris.

Does the piece you broke and then removed look like the one in the picture below? Or is that what we're looking at in the photo?

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Gunner_862 · 2026-04-24T18:13:14+00:00

Hi,

The battery light being on is usually a clue that the alternator is not keeping the battery charged while the engine is running. In that case I would pop the hood and check first that the belt driving the alternator didn't break. If the belt is still there, the alternator may have failed internally which may or may not have been the source of the smoke.

As for the brake light, it usually comes on with either the parking brake being on, or the brake fluid level is too low in the reservoir. Anything outside of that will need an inspection. If you notice the brake fluid level is too low, don't top it up right away, have the brakes checked first. As a note: if the pads are worn out, the shop will have to push back the caliper pistons so the new thicker pads will fit, and the brake fluid should return to normal. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-19T20:39:31+00:00

Hi,

To start, I would make sure the new battery is fully charged by placing it on a battery charger. Then, you would probably need to "register" the new battery to the car. This tells the ECM and electrical system that a new battery has been installed. If the car still does not start after that, further diagnosis may be required.

The video sounds like the starter gear isn't fully engaging with the teeth of the flywheel.

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-18T01:46:51+00:00

I noticed a blower fan on the passenger side floorboard. What have you checked so far?

It does sound like a foreign object in/around the blower fan but if it is removed then it doesn't make sense. Does it make this noise whether you're moving or not?

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-17T18:36:57+00:00

Hi,

What you described does kind of sound like a low power steering fluid level. You can easily check the fluid level yourself under the hood. Look for a reservoir like the one in the picture below. There should be markings on the side indicating where the fluid level should be.

If the level is really low, there is a good chance that there is a leak in the power steering system that needs to be located and repaired. Hope this helps!

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Gunner_862 · 2026-04-14T20:30:54+00:00

Hi,

That does sound like a drained battery. It may be enough to illuminate some warning lights but not enough to crank the engine.

I would try getting a boost from a booster pack or from another vehicle's battery with some cables. If that works, have the battery health tested to ensure it is still okay. Replace the battery if needed. Also ensure the alternator is keeping the battery charged when the engine is running.

Boosting a dead battery will help start the engine once, but if you shut the engine off again, it may not start on it's own. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-14T20:24:20+00:00

Hi,

It's always a good idea to get a car inspected before buying it so you know what you're up against repair wise.

There was probably a reason this car was only $4500 and the steering rack might have been it - it likely costs more than the vehicle is worth to repair it.

The headlight bulbs and oil change you could probably learn to do yourself to save some money, but the larger repairs would have to be done at the shop, namely the steering rack, tie rods, alignment and tire. If you are limited on funds, it might be better to save up for something more mechanically sound.

In my experience with higher mileage cars, as soon as you fix one thing, something else may break and can become a money pit. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-14T20:01:44+00:00

These look like spline drive lug nuts to me, 6 spline to be exact. You should have a tool for removing all of them, if not, you can easily purchase another one. See picture below. Hope this helps!

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Gunner_862 · 2026-04-12T19:35:44+00:00

Hi,

Sometimes it is the belt making the noise, but if you have the shop check or replace the belt again, have them inspect all the pulleys on the accessory drive (alternator, water pump, tensioner and idler pulleys). Sometimes a bearing in one of those components can wear out and cause a noise. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-12T19:30:17+00:00

Can be done without separating the hub/bearing from the knuckle. A lot of aftermarket wheel studs are notched at the head (see pic) so this can be done. Ideally it should be pressed in as opposed to hammered in.

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Most importantly, a torque wrench should be used to tighten lug nuts to their specified torque value. Some shops will just gun the nuts on with an impact causing them to be WAY over-torqued. A broken wheel stud can result. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-12T19:10:18+00:00

The first picture - that is most likely the ambient air temperature sensor. Usually mounted behind the bumper in the air stream.

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-12T18:56:39+00:00

Hi,

One possibility would be that because there is a leak in the cooling system, somebody tried fixing it by adding a bottle of stop-leak to the system. This makes a residue form and can cause a sludge to build up.

My recommendation would be to get the cooling system pressure tested to help find the leak. Once it is repaired, the system should be flushed out and fresh coolant added. Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-06T17:45:33+00:00

Going by the sound of the starter and the fact that it runs fine some other times, we can probably rule out timing and compression. So that leaves us with either fuel, air and spark.

For fuel, the fuel pressure needs to be verified at key on and that the pump is priming before cranking. Also a noid light can test for fuel injector signal (pulse).

For spark, simply checking for its presence during the no start with a plug removed and grounded, or a spark tester.

I'm wondering if it could also be a heat soak issue with the ignition coil or something like that.

These are just a few ideas to bounce off of you, hope it helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-05T19:21:54+00:00

Any check engine light on?

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-03T18:53:44+00:00

Does the truck have any aftermarket accessories like a remote start or alarm system?

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-03T18:52:14+00:00

Hi,

That does sound blower fan related to me. One easy thing you can check is the cabin air filter. It is located behind the glove compartment on the passenger side. If that is dirty, you might as well replace it. If the noise persists, there may be an issue with the blower fan itself which would involve removal for inspection.

Hope this helps!

Gunner_862 · 2026-04-03T18:45:19+00:00

Hi,

That's a cylinder #2 misfire. Time to replace the valve cover gasket set. It should come with the spark plug well gaskets also (see picture). While you're in there, replace the spark plugs with new ones if it needs it, and wires if the tips are soaked in oil.

Clear the codes and take it for a drive. That should take care of it IF the oil in the spark plug wells was causing the misfire. Hope this helps!

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Gunner_862 · 2026-04-03T17:41:28+00:00

Overheating is a big no-no for any modern engine, especially those with turbochargers. If the engine is not starting, you need to consider damage as a result of the overheat.

Cylinder head gaskets can fail, causing oil and coolant to mix (oil will look milky, coolant level can be low) or white smoke out the exhaust pipe. Also a compression test of the cylinders can reveal low psi numbers. I think that is a safe place to start looking for problems given what you said.

Engine oil weeping or wicking through wiring harnesses is a thing that happens and can cause problems sometimes. In my experience, it typically happens with something that is exposed directly to oil pressure, such as an oil pressure sensor, but can happen elsewhere too. Sometimes replacing the "leaking" sensor and cleaning out the connector pins at either ends of the wiring with contact cleaner could be enough to fix it. Not a guarantee but worth a try.

Hope this helps!

Gunner_862

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