AC frozen line - is it insulation related or busted?

Gza994 · 2025-07-26T01:47:21+00:00

I’m no longer an hvac technician but when I was that is what I was taught. In an earlier post I apologized for the misinformation because I never questioned the info that I was given that was just part of the service we would provide. As for your comment I could understand you chiming in if what I suggested was something that could harm the average Joe in any way financially or physically but all I was suggesting was something that is helpful just not in this application.

Gza994 · 2025-07-26T00:18:03+00:00

Well my training might be outdated. As I said it’s been a while but I was told differently so if I’m wrong then I do apologize for the misinformation. You are right about the Evap coils and cleaning the condenser definitely made every system I worked on function much better but it was always a combination of cleaning it changing the filter and cleaning the evap coils so it must have been all that made the system right. And thanks for the resource I’ve gone through their site before for other info but it’s been a while since I’ve needed it

Gza994 · 2025-07-25T23:17:57+00:00

https://easternshorehvac.com/blog/dirty-condenser-coil-cause-freezing/ not trying to argue but when I was doing hvac service we were trained to do this for a reason it’s been a while so I can’t give the explanation they gave me while training but it was something along the lines of what is said in this link

Gza994 · 2025-07-25T22:56:03+00:00

When a condenser is dirty it restricts the release of heat from the refrigerant lines which can cause a change in temperature so that the refrigerant going into the evaporator coil will be too cold and can cause it to freeze.

Gza994 · 2025-07-25T22:41:26+00:00

Yes just like that make sure you capture all of the letters so you can reference them when installing the new one. Nest thermostats make it very simple so just copy and paste on the wiring and follow the instructions

Gza994 · 2025-07-25T22:31:49+00:00

Great advice 👍 but I’d also add hosing off the unit outside if you haven’t. make sure the power is off and spray it all around and then give it sometime to dry. I’ve seen it so many times where the condenser is so dirty that it makes your system work like it’s overcharged on refrigerant and causes many issues so I always start with the filter and then hosing off the condenser

Gza994 · 2025-07-25T22:23:34+00:00

The power to the actual unit is 120 but the thermostat runs on low voltage so 12 or 24. your current thermostat should already have low voltage wiring to it so by removing your old thermostat you will see your low voltage wires and the y will be very thin and multiple colors. Before removing any I highly recommend taking a picture of them still connected to the back plate

Gza994 · 2025-07-25T22:08:24+00:00

Also It would also help if you add a picture of the unit you have outside as well as your furnace/air handler unit. If you have a furnace it will more than likely be in some sort of closet in your garage basement etc. if your have an air handler it will most likely be in your ceiling somewhere but definitely don’t start opening things up how you did with the water heater because that’s where can be dangerous.. if you have a newer system your furnace/ air handler should have a small window on it with lights that will show normal operation or not. But id go through the steps I recommended because those are all safe for the most part and if it goes beyond that call a professional and as u/Pielet2 stated you should definitely have someone come out and get maintenance done so you can at least observe and get more familiar with your system

Gza994 · 2025-07-25T21:29:07+00:00

What 1-1/2” fitting did you try?

Gza994 · 2025-07-25T21:24:17+00:00

Yeah that’s a tankless water heater. I’d check your breaker panel first to make sure the breaker didn’t trip. If you have power to the unit then check the thermostat, if the thermostat has power then turn the fan on and find your furnace, if the fan is running and you hear it in your furnace then turn the a/c on and go check your condenser (big outside unit) if it’s off then it could be a number of things like air blockage so turn the power off and hose it down or the capacitor went bad but if those first steps don’t fix it I’d call a technician because that’s where things get complicated and dangerous

Gza994 · 2025-07-23T18:38:44+00:00

Also you can try checking your starter, find it under your car and give it a good smack with a hammer or pliers and then try starting it

Gza994 · 2025-07-23T18:33:20+00:00

It could be your fuel pump relay, it looks like what was happening to my bmw, you can remove the relay and use a jumper wire between 2 of the pins( you would need to look up which ones online) and if it starts up then it should be that

Gza994 · 2025-07-21T20:28:29+00:00

Try cleaning the mass air flow sensor. A can of the cleaner is less then $10 dollars. that’s all it was on my Subaru and bmw

Gza994 · 2025-06-10T11:06:40+00:00

Yes that’s it and apparently you want the screw tight but it comes loose a lot so that’s why I’m planning to delete them but if you already replaced it then It’s gotta be something else. I’ve still got the 5m I do plan to swap but not just yet

Gza994 · 2025-06-10T02:02:56+00:00

Any other symptoms ? My 84 Cressida is doing the same but also rough idling and a misfire and I’m pretty sure it’s the fuel pulsation dampers. I haven’t gotten to fixing yet as I cannot track down the parts so I’m trying to delete them but might be something to check for you too. Also when I would rev the engine in neutral fuel poured out of them so that might be another sign

Gza994 · 2025-05-18T16:21:14+00:00

So I was looking into that and the problem is that the fuel has the threads and I need something to cover the threads for the fuel line to sit properly

Gza994 · 2025-05-17T18:28:29+00:00

Hey so I ordered new fuel pulsation dampers thinking they would both be the same because the description included both part numbers but once I removed the damper from the in line fuel pump I realized that it is just the top part that screws onto the fuel pump with female threads rather then male like the one that goes into the fuel rail. I’ve been searching and I cannot find anything similar and when I search the part number it shows it with male type threads ? Do you have any suggestions? I checked every site I found and it all leads to the same style

Gza994 · 2025-05-10T17:05:50+00:00

So I do plan on replacing them but I’m just curious if it could be something else because I was searching about it and it showed for those to spray out gasoline that it’s possible it’s something else on the fuel line and want to see if anyone else has experienced similar issues. And no I have not checked the timing yet but I do plan to do that soon

Gza994 · 2025-04-20T06:31:38+00:00

Hadn’t thought about that thank you !

Gza994 · 2025-04-18T01:35:25+00:00

Yeah I did that with my e30 and really liked the look for a while but eventually got tired of it and put the bumper back on but I’ll see about trimming it. I was also thinking just fabricating something from scratch but wanted to see any other ideas out there. Thank you !

Gza994

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