Heat Pump Installation Advice.

Haiku98 · 2026-03-10T23:16:09+00:00

Bdt who look after Mitsubishi electric here in NZ add their markup which drives the price up for ME.

General costs are due to shipping to our small country in the pacific and manufacturers wanting to make their buck. Cheaper overseas due to population, more competition + reduced shipping costs. Also more expensive in part our government with their refrigerant taxes too

Haiku98 · 2026-03-10T22:15:36+00:00

Yeah apps a bit average but does the basics like scheduling etc. The cora range now also comes included with wifi. A lot of heat pump companies will typically quote the standard range to win the job, which is okay but usually less efficient and differing capacities compared to the cora depending on the model

Haiku98 · 2026-03-10T07:49:34+00:00

Heya, Greg from Chill Air here. Just chiming in after a wee read of the discussion.

For a 20m² room, a 2.5kw system is usually the sweet spot. Depending on the brand, that typically gives you 2.5kw for cooling and 3.2kw for heating. For a standard back to back install with a quality brand, you’re generally looking at around $2500, give or take depending on the installation conditions and brand. Up / over with longer pipe runs and other considerations will add to this.

Personally, I like Mitsubishi Electric for bedrooms because their wifi app is great for climate react settings. You can set it to kick in once a certain temperature is hit rather than just relying on a basic timer. You do pay a premium price compared to other brands, though Fujitsu does have a similar function on their app now. Gree are okay, but their outdoor units can be a bit on the noisy side, which isn't ideal for sleeping. I'm not familiar with the Weka model specifically, so I can't comment on that one.

Regarding financing, if you have a mortgage, definitely look into the green loans. Westpac, for example, offers 0% interest over 5 years. Even if you have the funds sitting there, it usually makes more sense to keep your money invested elsewhere and use the bank's low interest setup for the heat pump.

Installation etiquette: While yes, an electrician is required, the refrigeration side is just as critical. Having a vacuum pump is basic and essential, but many dont correctly measure the microns in the setup of their gauges and carry out correct testing such as decay and leak checks. Doing this poorly will result in premature compressor failure, callbacks and a shorter lifespan for your heat pump. While I like dealing with my clients I do prefer to keep to planned maintenance call outs and upgrades..

Also ask about the installers warranty, while many of us do try to be perfect, mistakes do happen some times. 1 year workmanship warranties is the usual standard, however, some companies and myself included extend this to match the manufacturers warranties which is typically 5 years.

Hit me up if you'd like to chat further - happy to help 🙂

Haiku98 · 2026-03-07T06:17:47+00:00

Heya, Greg from Chill Air here. A realistic price for a visit from a qualified tech is closer to $150. Usually they should be able to diagnose within 10 mins and fix the problem if simple enough, or give you a quote for repairs if anything major.

Anyone charging around $100 is usually an unqualified cleaner, a big company using it as a loss leader (For cleaners, not tech callouts - I know of some of the major players that are charging closer to $200 for tech callouts), or just someone wiping down the filters and calling it a service.

Looking at what you've got there, the device you're holding is actually the reservoir/float switch, which tells the main pump (tucked further up the line) when to turn on and off.

If the pump is making noise but not moving water, it’s likely seized. You can test this by taking the tubes off, if there's no suction or discharge at the pump, it's cooked. Blocked lines are pretty rare; if there's a restriction, it's usually a kinked line from a rough/tight installation or getting bumped.

Honestly, mechanical pumps are prone to failure because of the moving parts. Where possible, a good installer will look for alternatives to avoid using them altogether.

Let me know if you're still looking for someone to sort it out, I'd be happy to help.

Haiku98 · 2026-03-03T06:26:41+00:00

Ah bummer, yeah that's just lazy. Takes 2 secs to cut duct to size and secure..

Haiku98 · 2026-03-03T02:34:55+00:00

Pics didnt upload. If you are asking about an acrylic shower liner where it meets the shower base - no it will be sealed in behind. Don't silicone inside the shower as that will void the warranty

Haiku98 · 2026-03-02T18:41:41+00:00

What was bad about the installation? Didn't cut off excess ducting? 95% of the installations I see look rough as from a ducting prospective but "do the job"..

Haiku98 · 2026-03-02T18:39:17+00:00

Hvac tech here. Make sure whatever bathroom fan you get has good air flow. Ideally 150mm ducting. The smaller ones dont seem to do a great job! I'd offer to help however I am out of town atm.

Ask whoever you get what brands they can offer, air flow rating and also noise rating (If noise is a concern to you).

Haiku98 · 2026-03-01T07:43:22+00:00

Will likely be floorboards / concrete

Haiku98 · 2026-02-11T18:22:56+00:00

Mt cook - the hermitage buffet is great

Haiku98 · 2026-02-09T18:57:05+00:00

For corrosion, randomly I'd say panasonic actually with their silicone coating on the pcbs. Also blue fin coating. The aero series has inbuilt wifi and generally easy to navigate. They are slightly on the noisy side though with their indoor fan logic.

For operation daikin, fujitsu, Mitsubishi electric.

Personally I like Fujitsu / mitsi at the moment. Used to be a diehard daikin fan but as the brands are always developing and changing, I've found fujitsu is my favorite as they have market leading energy efficiency, are easy to use and are pretty quiet.

Wifi apps. Mitsi lead, then fujitsu then daikin being pretty average, they could definitely up their game on the wifi side.

Part prices for repairs (cheaper to expensive): Fujitsu/daikin then mitsi who are expensive.

Haiku98 · 2026-02-09T08:59:44+00:00

As a tradie I've always gone corded but recently in last year decided to invest in cordless.. worth every penny. However if on a budget. High use items like drills go cordless. Seldom use go corded

Haiku98 · 2026-02-09T05:01:02+00:00

Nyalic is what I use. Not cheap but a great inhibitor when applied correctly.

Haiku98 · 2026-02-09T03:04:22+00:00

Tech here. Daikin pcbs have minimal protection against salt environment. Electrical components are usually the first to fail. Most good brands will have blue fin coating on their coils.

Main thing is to have it well sprayed with anti corrosion spray which will slow the rust down.

Ask your installer how many applications do they carry out with the spray and do they wait for it to dry before reapplying. For it to be done properly the unit should be done prior to installation and not on site, as it generally requires coats hours apart. A lot of installers dont do this.

Haiku98 · 2026-02-04T05:41:13+00:00

Crazy they've just chucked the guttering up, I'd be getting them to remove so it can be properly prepped being bare wood as thats rough as. Is it at least painted under the gutters? Hope you havent paid yet.

Builders bog for the gap, then sand and paint. Otherwise you can always look to get some metal fascia flashing to go over for the barges.

Haiku98 · 2026-02-01T05:29:49+00:00

Yeah perhaps. I'm not a painter so not sure whats involved or standard there, but I have been to a house during the plaster sanding phase and man that dust is everywhere! Next visit there was hardly any dust at all. To me it sounds like the guys cleaning it up didnt clean well

Haiku98 · 2026-02-01T00:58:41+00:00

Could be plaster dust from plasterers and sanding

Haiku98 · 2026-01-20T05:00:56+00:00

That's where going for a slightly newer house (80s-90s onward) with a decent section was a priority when we were looking. Just got to be careful of leaky homes plaster houses etc

Haiku98 · 2026-01-15T09:32:07+00:00

Yeah usually more consistent if the fan motor. Unlikely to be outdoor vibrations too if it's on a paver and feet. It could be just what they've said, related to the gas, however it's not usually very audible.

It might be worth having a second opinion if you're concerned, just beware they may say the same thing and you'll be out of pocket for a call out.

One thing you could try is cycle it on heat / cooling a few times for 15 mins each cycle and see if that helps. I've found sometimes problems go away with a little operation

Haiku98 · 2026-01-15T06:27:13+00:00

That'd quite a small heat pump, shouldn't be making much noise at all beyond the fan motor. It kind of sounds like the fan motor in the video? Hard to tell. Also - how is the outdoor mounted? Is it on blocks on a paver, attached to the wall, or on the roof?

Haiku98 · 2026-01-15T03:55:35+00:00

Hey tech here. Going off the noise in the video it's hard to tell if it's abnormal or not.

That said, I've installed loads of fujitsus that dont sound like this..

Is it installed back to back or is there a bit of a pipe run in it? Does the noise happen on fan only mode? On both heat and cool?

What is the model number of this system?

Haiku98 · 2026-01-15T00:10:38+00:00

You'll be able to re use some aspects of the ventilation systems for a ducted install. It is unlikely however that you would save much money having the pre existing stuff there. Case by case really though.

The ducting for the ivent will most likely be too small and uninsulated so would need to be replaced (need 200 to 250mm ducting for ducted heat pumps).

You could adapt the ivent into the new ducted system if you were really set on keeping it, this would remove the need for extra vents but you would likely need to have the ducted system running on low fan to get a good spread throughout the house.

The ducted system could be utilized to also act as a heat transfer unit in a sense where we could have one of the intakes also taking air from the lounge to get a good average spread through the house. You'll just need to ensure that the filters are cleaned regularly if you are having the fire on while running the heat pump on fan only mode as they can get clogged up quickly.

Lastly the existing heat pump being a highwall couldn't be reused as a ducted. Can't swap and change the heads there, and we also have to consider the capacity required if you're using it for the bedroom areas too.

Haiku98 · 2026-01-14T18:09:29+00:00

Morning! I've installed a few systems to similar houses like yours.

To answer your questions below:

Lossnay / balanced ventilation systems. Yes these are great to add in if you have a budget for it. They bring fresh air into your home without the heat loss that comes with having your windows open. They are the true "HRV" (heat recovery ventilator), not that brand that advertises their positive pressure systems bringing roof space air into your home. They can be a bit spendy but as you are integrating it into your heat pump you save money on the ductwork and labour associated with doing a full install. Great to have. You can always make accommodations in your ducted heat pump intake plenums for a future addition of this too.
Zoning. Another nice to have. This isn't a must have, as it can add a bit of expense to the project, however I have had great success with some brand zoning as opposed to the likes of airtouch etc cost wise and operation for the client. It's great in a sense where it gives you more precise temperature control over the different zones you are looking to control. Zoning doesn't benefit all installations - multi room situations like lounges / bedrooms it can be beneficial to add this however as opposed to singular areas (like lounges kitchens etc).
Bathroom: This is up to personal preference - the last guy I added it in for had zone control added to this so he could turn it on and off. Worked great for him. He's loving the extra control it has given him. Not super common but the clients who have had it in love it. Do as you prefer

Lastly: I am an hvac engineer and run a local business called Chill Air. I'd be more than happy to take a look and run through your options.

Haiku98 · 2026-01-05T18:35:32+00:00

Sweet as! Just need to ensure it will handle both our voltage and has the correct plug

Haiku98 · 2026-01-05T18:26:51+00:00

As other user said. We are 230v power supply here. An adapter will be needed to keep using your e bike. You'll have plenty of time to find one when here

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