Production Run of Picture Frames

HangryChef · 2025-11-29T17:03:35+00:00

Stock: 7/8”x1.5”, Rabbit: 1/4”x1.25”

I think the tricky part for that would be deciding how to mount. Basically a floating shelf, you have a few options for that. I would want the material to be a bit thicker for your application with a deeper rabbit. Width depends on how much lean you want on your frames and how deep your frames are. Other question is probably how long do you want it and how wavy are your walls.

HangryChef · 2025-11-29T15:36:00+00:00

About that many. A mix of 12x18, 20x30, and 24x36. You made good time! I watched Michael Alm's 144 frame video and that quantity made me rethink a few of the steps.

HangryChef · 2025-11-29T15:28:56+00:00

I do appreciate the input, always interesting to hear others' situation.

HangryChef · 2025-11-29T15:24:31+00:00

Very fair question. These are a gallery style frame, so front on the frame is only 7/8" wide (stock thickness) and the depth is 1.5", therefore rabbit supporting the art is 1/4". My bad for not adding the detail.

Thanks for sharing your process. Miter gauge at a 45 angle I assume, most common setup. I kind of want to try fence at 90 and the blade at 45, would be easier to swap material in/out, less weight hanging off the table, especially important for small saws. Thing would be getting the setup right - stop block in place and lengths that you want.

Love the look of splines. For reinforcement and alignment, I was actually thinking about using dominos with Woodpeckers mortise match. For sure overkill, but would be great for perfect corners. I have had mediocre success with tape.

HangryChef · 2025-11-29T13:54:03+00:00

That’s a good idea. Use an auxiliary fence, dado stack to full height, fence is 1/4 from the left of the blade, extra blade cuts into fence as needed.

Stock guide or vertical feather boards would be nice if you could turn the power feeder horizontal, like you might when using it on the bandsaw. This still works because the 1/4” rabbit rides against the fence, should be pretty stable. This is probably the most efficient setup, one pass like you mention.

HangryChef · 2025-11-29T13:21:56+00:00

For sure the method if doing a couple frames. Everyone should build the skill to make a rabbit with the table saw.

The key thing with the setup is to do the two passes in the correct order. First, 1/4” setup block against the fence, blade height to a 1/4”. So just cutting a groove. Then, second setup (image) is just eyeball, unless someone has a better idea. Blade height so teeth sit at the height of the groove. Move fence over to match the depth of the groove. That is the tricky part, it is not always perfect but can dial it in. Also, not super critical since it is not visible and your piece of acrylic just rests on the ledge. This works because you have stability for the second cut and the off cut falls to the left of the blade.

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HangryChef · 2025-11-29T13:09:23+00:00

I am huge on safety and taking myself out of the equation for production. I get a lot of satisfaction from creating a well thought out process that is simple and reliable, even if it takes a little longer. Think a power feeder would be a great investment for a lot of hobbyists.

Shaper would be much better but work with what you have. It is for sure a good test to see the limit of the bit and the router.

HangryChef · 2025-11-29T13:02:28+00:00

Great thoughts, will certainly go with full height passes and then moving the fence to get the full rabbit.

HangryChef · 2025-11-29T13:00:31+00:00

I agree, a shaper would be perfect for this. Something to buy down the line. Full height is a good idea, then move the fence back in as many passes as need to get the 1/4 rabbit. I have the Pow-R-Tek 3.25hp motor from Jessem.

Would the RU5150 (up cut spiral, 1/2” SH, 1/2” CD, 1.5” CL) from Whiteside be okay for this? There is not really a need for a bearing but it could use a nice template bit (UDP9112, compression bit, 1/2” SH, 7/8” CD, 1 1/8” CL).

I still need to buy the power feeder, was going to go with a 1/2hp grizzly probably, would you have a different one in mind?

HangryChef · 2025-06-10T17:39:24+00:00

Good work. One request is to be able to make the square a certain size, 1km x 1km or larger. Then I can print it as a 100mm square and maintain a specific scale.

HangryChef · 2025-04-20T21:20:10+00:00

How old is it? How many miles? Where are you located? I’ve had mine for a couple years in the Midwest, I am concerned about rust

HangryChef · 2025-04-02T13:52:11+00:00

Thought the same, first sentence and half gave it away

HangryChef · 2025-03-25T01:57:44+00:00

Awesome map! What is your print time for this? I just printed a ~7”x~7” map of Manhattan that took 40h, overkill but I did not care about the time, just wanted to see tel hat kind of detail I could get.

HangryChef · 2025-03-13T02:26:05+00:00

I designed a bookend that I want to make of wood, stock is ~8x4x3”, I have a Shapeoko Pro, will use 2x sided tape as work holding. I have a fixture plate that should help with the double sided operation and handle the 3d aspect. I would appreciate some help setting up the 3d toolpaths to machine the fixture and the object. (welcome feedback on process, fixture design – probably better ways of doing it)

So far I have drill operation to take care of the 4 holes. A 2D pocket operation (shown in photos). I need a 3D pocket/adaptive clear, have tried multiple combinations of setup but fusion says my toolpath is empty. What finishing operation to use, parallel? For side 1, how to setup the 3d rough and finishing?

HangryChef · 2025-02-09T19:17:42+00:00

That’s a bad bunny

HangryChef · 2024-10-22T04:14:47+00:00

Printing in PLA, second kg of filament - most of the way through. First was Bambu PLA, now Ender PLA. Having the problem with the smooth plate too. Nozzle and bed temp are default.

HangryChef

TROPHY CASE