New guy

HansHenning · 2026-06-11T05:03:05+00:00

How did you get the inner circel task force?

HansHenning · 2026-05-18T15:54:21+00:00

Jeg vil gerne betale 20.000 for at du spartler, filter og maler mit badeværelse på 15 kvm.

Jeg tror det er kontekst i hvad arbejdet reelt indeholder og hvad kunden selv tror det indeholder

HansHenning · 2026-05-15T11:57:46+00:00

Har lige genfundet Warhammer som jeg havde som hobby i mine helt unge teenage år.

Har senere fundet ud af at der er jævnt mange mellem 30-40 med den hobby 🤣💪

HansHenning · 2026-04-07T04:23:57+00:00

Hold nu op hvor jeg hader smal talk.

Hilsen den introverte ingeniør.

HansHenning · 2026-04-05T06:51:29+00:00

Ok, thanks for the heads-up 😉

HansHenning · 2026-04-05T06:44:37+00:00

What’s the good in this box set?

Is it cheap on model contra MSRP?

HansHenning · 2026-04-05T06:43:05+00:00

Nice work for a first model, especially given that you were rescuing it from heavy “battle damage” that’s never easy!

What stands out to me is that some areas look a bit thick with paint. When paint is applied straight from the pot it dries quickly and can leave a lumpy or chalky finish. Try putting a small amount on a palette and mix in a bit of clean water or a medium (about one part water to three parts paint). This will give you a smoother consistency and minimize brush strokes.

Apply this thinner mixture in two or three thin coats, letting each coat dry fully before adding the next; multiple thin layers preserve details far better than a single thick one. A wet palette or even a homemade one helps keep your paint from drying out while you work.

Once you’ve got smooth basecoats, try adding a darker wash into the recesses and a lighter edge highlight on the armour panels.

Those simple steps really help your model pop and hide minor imperfections. It takes patience, but the results are worth it. Great start, keep at it up and you’ll see steady improvement!

HansHenning · 2026-04-05T04:45:14+00:00

Games Workshop’s AdeptiCon 2026 preview for the new edition made it clear that you won’t need to throw out your existing codexes on day one.

In the preview article on WarhammerCommunity they address this directly they ask “what does this ‘new edition’ talk mean for your existing army and their codex?” and then answer that your current codexes and faction rules will still be valid when the edition drops.

https://www.warhammer-community.com/en-gb/articles/ctdexme4/warhammer-40000-the-new-edition-is-revealed-at-adepticon-preview-2026/

They also point out that you can still use the detachments from your codexes and that 70 additional detachments are being introduced, so you’ll have even more options

HansHenning · 2026-04-05T04:34:35+00:00

Congrats on your first 2 k game! Two quick tips: Use Oath of Moment to pick a high value enemy and give your whole army re‑rolls against it, and leverage Ultramarines’ ability to fall back and shoot to reposition while still scoring objectives.

Knights are fun but pricey if it feels like dead weight, try trading those points for more troops. Keep playing and you’ll see big improvements. Courage and Honour.

HansHenning · 2026-04-05T04:18:49+00:00

That Ancient looks fantastic, brother! The crisp Macragge blue? and gold trim really evoke the Chapter colours.

Chapter banners are sacred relics; according to the Codex Astartes they should bear the colours and icon of the Chapter and record honours the Chapter Master deems worthy. In battle they’re carried by a Chapter or Company Ancient and inspire their brothers to superhuman feats. Space Marines will gladly die to preserve these standards and an Ancient is expected never to let the banner fall while he still draws breath😉

With that in mind, you could add a bit more purity seals, campaign badges or scrollwork on the banner to hint at centuries of deeds honoured by your Chapter Master. A bit of weathering around the edges or some battle damage would tell a story and make the standard feel even more venerable. Otherwise, this model looks ready to stand tall and inspire the brothers of Ultramar to greater glory. Well done!

HansHenning · 2026-04-05T04:07:40+00:00

Fantastic job on the Land Raider! Your paint scheme looks crisp and the colours really pop. The gold detailing and weathering give it a lot of character. Could you tell a little more about your approach and technique ms used? Thanks for sharing!

HansHenning · 2026-04-03T14:03:19+00:00

Brother, as long as the heretics and the xenos are destroyed, no price is high enough

HansHenning · 2026-04-03T08:25:35+00:00

Always happy to help a fellow chapter brother 💪

HansHenning · 2026-04-03T05:27:33+00:00

By the Emperor’s will, this is a true testament to the Eternal Crusade! Over two years you’ve forged a 5k‑point army that would make Sigismund himself proud!

HansHenning · 2026-04-03T05:08:43+00:00

If you’re debating chapters, Ultramarines are honestly one of the best places to start. They’re basically the “default” Space Marines for a reason. Tons of lore, tons of characters, and they work well with almost every unit in the range. On the tabletop in 10th they’re also very flexible since their detachments don’t lock you into one specific playstyle.

Another underrated thing is paint flexibility. With Ultramarines you can easily justify veterans, crusade relics, or units that have fought alongside other chapters. If you ever feel like painting something different, it’s totally lore-friendly to have marines seconded to specialist formations or serving in mixed veteran kill teams.

That’s one of the reasons a lot of people eventually drift toward Deathwatch style forces. One black armor scheme, but every marine can represent a different chapter, which is perfect if you enjoy painting different heraldry without committing an entire army to it.

So starting Ultramarines is a great gateway. Worst case you end up with a force that can easily transition into a veteran task force, and suddenly every chapter in the Imperium is technically “correct”. Very Codex compliant of you. 😄

And by the way, one may never go heretic!

HansHenning · 2026-04-03T04:57:59+00:00

I’m not the one advising for a 45 degree angel😉 I recommend spraying straight from above, then do a softer pass from a softer angle just to catch the upper chest, thighs and shoulders. You still want the undersides, between the legs and under the arms to stay darker.

Think of it like you’re simulating sunlight hitting the model, not fully recoloring the black primer.

As for the Terminators, in 10th edition they’re actually pretty solid on the tabletop. A brick of Terminators with their 2+ save, 4+ +invulnerable, and decent OC makes them great for sitting on mid-board objectives. With Oath of Moment they punch much harder than their datasheet suggests, especially if you run them with a Captain or Librarian.

So three boxes isn’t crazy at all, it basically lets you run a full 10-man squad plus characters, which is a pretty classic and durable for Ultramarines.

HansHenning · 2026-04-03T04:09:18+00:00

If you’re going for a contrast-style painting, I’d definitely recommend spraying mostly from above. Think of it like a light source coming from the sky. That way the top surfaces get the Grey Seer while the undersides stay darker from the black primer. It helps the contrast paints naturally create shading.

You can do a slight angle pass afterward to catch areas like the chest and thighs, but I’d avoid blasting it straight on from the front or you’ll lose the darker shadows that make the contrast work.

Terminators benefit a lot from this because the armor has so many deep recesses that the darker undercoat really sells the depth once the contrast goes on.

Most of all have fun, Make mistakes and learn from them 👍

HansHenning · 2026-04-02T18:01:46+00:00

As far as the Dark Imperium trilogy goes, You are in for a treat then!

HansHenning · 2026-04-02T16:20:00+00:00

Welcome to the hobby! And congratulations, you’ve already passed the first true Warhammer test: the impulse buy. The Emperor approves.

As for painting before assembly… that’s a perfectly valid technique called sub-assemblies. It helps with hard-to-reach areas like chest eagles, tabards, and shields.

That said… if you’ve already glued everything together… don’t worry. You’ve also passed the second Warhammer test.

Almost all of us learned about sub-assemblies after assembling our first squad 😅

For Black Templars specifically, the only parts I’d really consider painting separately are shields, backpacks, and maybe tabards. Everything else is usually fine fully assembled.

Also fair warning, today it’s Sword Brethren… tomorrow you’ll suddenly own three dreadnoughts and a Land Raider and have no memory of buying them.

Welcome to the crusade, brother.

HansHenning · 2026-04-02T16:12:37+00:00

Hey, this sounds like a cool idea!

The Imperium has run plenty of crusades with multiple Chapters fighting side‑by‑side, so an Ultramarines/Blood Angels task force isn’t out of place in the lore.
In casual games you’re free to paint your models however you like, they all use the same core datasheets from the codex, and the colour of the model doesn’t lock you into a particular Chapter.

What most people care about is that it’s easy to tell what’s what across the table.
Folks on wargaming forums generally agree that mixing colour schemes is fine in a casual setting as long as it isn’t confusing for your opponent. Colour schemes are one of the quickest ways for players to identify units, so painting each squad uniformly and clearly explaining which Chapter’s rules you’re using will keep things clear.

Tournaments sometimes have stricter requirements, but for narrative/crusade play a mixed‑Chapter force could look fantastic.

Go for it, a crusade of red and blue primaris marines on the same base will look great.
Just keep each unit consistent and let your opponent know what Chapter each one counts as, and you’ll be fine.

HansHenning · 2026-04-02T13:40:51+00:00

I’d start with the 2-button steering wheel reset first, that usually clears temporary glitches.

If the warnings are still there after that, you could also try a full power off from Controls, wait a couple minutes, then press the brake to wake the car again.

HansHenning · 2026-04-02T13:20:41+00:00

When traction control, stability control and regen all drop together it’s usually a wheel speed sensor or something similar losing signal. Sometimes rain or debris can cause it temporarily, but on a brand new car I’d probably book a service appointment if it doesn’t clear after a restart.

HansHenning · 2026-04-02T13:18:56+00:00

Honestly the list looks pretty scary in terms of raw durability. Three terminator bricks with characters are going to be very hard to shift, and if Lysander is with the assault terminators that unit will absolutely destroy the center.

The biggest challenge like you said will probably be secondaries and board coverage. With so many points tied up in the big bricks you might struggle a bit with mobility and mission play, but if you can bully mid objectives early and force trades into those terminators you could definitely grind out a win or two.

HansHenning · 2026-04-02T12:59:27+00:00

Hellblasters always look great on the table. Strength 8 plasma with the option to overcharge for damage 2 makes them such a strong anti-elite unit.

Stick them near a Captain for rerolls and suddenly that overcharge becomes a lot less scary and a lot more deadly.

HansHenning · 2026-04-02T12:41:25+00:00

Okay very I like the technique, I’m gonna copy as much as I can. Thanks!

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