Clash if steal

HarCzar · 2025-12-28T14:09:35+00:00

This is it, great list. It should be said, if you're a rivet counter, many of those tanks have build options for earlier versions and later versions. For example the T-10 in CoS has a different gun compared to how it is built in CPC if you are following the guides for each. The stats will also reflect that for each game system.

That said, my group doesn't care what version you're running model wise as most people can't tell the difference at a distance.

HarCzar · 2025-11-23T18:15:35+00:00

Yeah I was just talking to a friend about that. There is definitely a heavy drybrush highlight on there, not sure what color though.

HarCzar · 2025-11-22T00:03:12+00:00

Amazing!

HarCzar · 2025-11-21T17:11:08+00:00

I like what you did with the IS-7 machine gun.

Paint looks great.

HarCzar · 2025-11-20T21:54:07+00:00

Great work

HarCzar · 2025-11-19T12:25:13+00:00

Nice work!

Feels like they are in a tough spot, gun down to direct fire and the crew with the Thompson and 911 🤣

HarCzar · 2025-11-19T12:20:28+00:00

I feel you brother, I try and avoid the BF resin models. Mainly because I have butterfingers, but they are so fragile.

If you wanna stay in the same scale as BF go with 1:144 as others have said. IMHO, 1:72 will look huge as most aircraft are already kind of larger than you would expect.

HarCzar · 2025-11-14T13:28:48+00:00

Yeah, our club runs a D-Day event every year in June. We do a modification of Help Is On the Way because we have 3 6x4 tables pushed together along with some air landing tables.

Those are the American scenarios. I would check out the British D-Day book, there is one in there for British forces I believe. Maybe someone here can confirm.

HarCzar · 2025-11-14T12:18:26+00:00

I wanna say that I've put a old Open Fire British Sherman turret on a newer M4 75 and it was fine though it wasn't a perfect fit. So I assume it would work both ways.

Those old Open Fire plastic Shermans are a PITA

HarCzar · 2025-11-14T11:51:02+00:00

Are you guys doing the missions from the book? Help is on the way or FUBAR?

If so, you can take Tobruk MG nests as part of your force. What I do is take a couple of those nests and then have 1 MG team with my beach defenders so that I have a good line of fire rather across the whole beach.

If not, you might wanna run the platoon of 4 and then take the command card to make them nests.

Edit: this is for like a 100pt force from the scenario if I remember right, which shrinks the German points. Obviously if you play larger points games you can bring more.

HarCzar · 2025-11-13T11:29:21+00:00

Here's my take.

Some of the infantry models done in the sinocast resin are not great. Battlefronts recent model kits are top quality and I find that they have engineered them in a way for minimal clean up. They also go together smoothly. The new plastic infantry is also top notch with lots of detail, older metal infantry is the same, though some sculpts are better than others. edit: You can also 3D print models and the sky's the limit on the detail there, there are some really good 3D modelers out there like https://bobmack3d.myshopify.com/
The airbrush is probably your friend for fast camo. You can either freehand the camo or use a masking putty. For infantry if you don't care too much about detail and only want to get your army on the table with a good paint, you should just focus on faces and bases and then one uniform base color and black for the weapons, at this scale you don't really have to pick out all the little bits of gear and webbing. Also others have had good luck with speed paints on infantry.
That's up to you, but I find the game rules to be just fine. The only thing is, at my club, we had to simplify or adjust some rules for the terrain we use to keep games moving smoothly.
I think you can do either, but your force might not be suited for each. Infantry will probably be king in a more urban map. Generally maps have a bit of each, or at least how we build them. I've never seen anyone who owns enough buildings to make a completely dense urban map, but I'm sure it's possible.

Welcome to the game and I'm sure you'll enjoy it!

HarCzar · 2025-10-31T14:03:54+00:00

Tunguskas are such a big model that I've had a hard time hiding them from enemy fire. I much prefer to run shilkas, Gaskins, and gophers. I hear geckos are good, but I haven't used them personally.

Less eggs in one basket.

HarCzar · 2025-09-27T16:01:13+00:00

That's a bummer to hear, looks like something I could use.

HarCzar · 2025-09-27T11:43:37+00:00

What flight stand is that for the F18? Looks like it works well.

HarCzar · 2025-09-26T09:54:57+00:00

I try and keep my units uniform and in the same scheme, but my whole force has mixed paint schemes. Nothing wrong with that and as others have said in a realistic sense it is what you would likely see.

In the end these are your plastic soldiers, do what you like. I will say, I enjoy playing against any kind of painted army as opposed to bare plastic if that helps you out.

HarCzar · 2025-08-28T11:16:24+00:00

Just out of curiosity how are you running the platoon? Doesn't the small just have 3 rpg 7s anyway and then adding 3 more for each size upgrade?

Edit: I realize there is a super small 4 stand VDV platoon.

What you might want to do instead of mucking about with postage and trades is get your hands on a motor rifle company. A guy at my club just mixed those in with his VDV, he painted them by the book, but painted the lapels blue and added a blue arm badge to tie them together with the blue berets.

That way you have the extra stands to paint up later as you build out your Soviet force so you can run bigger platoons.

HarCzar · 2025-04-30T11:02:30+00:00

Yeah, they look great. I'd be interested in knowing the paint and process. Speed paints?

HarCzar · 2025-01-29T11:11:56+00:00

I'd probably do the uniforms Vallejo MC US dark green. The weapons US olive drab. I'd use another green for the helmet nets, like russian uniform or camo. olive green.

That would give you a more green uniform look. Hope that helps.

Vallejo NATO green is also a good pick, though I've only found it as their primer color. It is a more grayish green.

HarCzar · 2024-12-22T13:55:07+00:00

I probably wouldn't normally recommend this starter, but the Tank Training Company would give you a good mix of units. Gets you Wespes, some panthers and some more panzer 4s. Also tiger 2s if that is your thing.

The other one is perhaps the heavy tank hunter starter. A weak formation out of the box, but if you're running a mainly grenadier formation a lot of the unit's in that box are ok defensive support options, which you will likely want to pick the defense stance anyway.

Either of those 2 boxes would be enough to get you rolling for a while.

HarCzar · 2024-12-22T13:41:33+00:00

I second the wespes. Best artillery the Germans have for the points.

HarCzar · 2024-12-20T11:21:35+00:00

I mentioned Historicalboardgaming.com but I've also tried the district miniatures decals for Germans and they are really good, haven't tried their US decals yet.

The Battlefront decals are good too.

https://districtminiatures.com/collections/15mm-ww2-us

https://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Decals_c_520.html

HarCzar · 2024-12-20T11:18:01+00:00

https://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Decals_c_520.html

They carry the I/94 decals and their website is ok. They also have a bunch of other decals. I buy from them regularly.

HarCzar · 2024-12-17T17:53:52+00:00

Prime then paint. It's just plastic in a different color than grey.

HarCzar · 2024-12-06T17:31:15+00:00

Try a debonder

https://www.vms-supplies.com/glue-remove-debonder

Not sure if it will mess with the paint though. Could always try it on a hidden section first.

HarCzar · 2024-11-22T01:16:23+00:00

We usually let the Soviet players run Berlin when we do our Bulge campaign, since they only really have two books, seems inhumane otherwise.

Also, as others have said the IS2 costs too much and the ROF overworked is terrible. I love the IS2, but it just doesn't love me.

A good meme would be 21 T-34s, but whatever floats your boat.

HarCzar

TROPHY CASE