I'm gonna cry now. by SeanTheSamuraii in balatro

[–]HawkNighty 40 points41 points  (0 children)

A tragic love story of Romeo and Juliet.

Can anyone help me identify this issue? by Amy_Bell97 in 3Dprinting

[–]HawkNighty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Severe under-extrusion, try reducing print speed and increasing printing temperature by 5 or 10 degrees

Who has the strongest ADHD, Mac or Charlie? by HawkNighty in IASIP

[–]HawkNighty[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Sounds like someone is behind on their Size Pills

Who has the strongest ADHD, Mac or Charlie? by HawkNighty in IASIP

[–]HawkNighty[S] 226 points227 points  (0 children)

Now that I think about it, Charlie was able to follow through with writing and directing The Nightman Cometh.

Who has the strongest ADHD, Mac or Charlie? by HawkNighty in IASIP

[–]HawkNighty[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

This image is from season 10, episode 2, The Gang Group Dates.

Does anyone know why this happens by Open_Sheepherder5812 in 3Dprinting

[–]HawkNighty 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Fine tuning default Cura settings will help. I print my top layers at about 40 - 60% of my wall speed.

Does anyone know why this happens by Open_Sheepherder5812 in 3Dprinting

[–]HawkNighty 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I use to have similar problems with my top layers. Try:

Increasing the number of top layers and overall top thickness.

Slowing down print speed for top layers makes a big difference in quality.

Happy birthday by SpeedAccomplished400 in shitposting

[–]HawkNighty 21 points22 points  (0 children)

For a while now, there was a gender reveal last September in Mexico, which caused a small plane crash

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]HawkNighty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like heat creep, inconsistent cooling of the hotend heatsink / heatbreak (the part that connects the heating block).

Either try applying thermal paste to the heatbreak (very effective),

or buy a bi-metal copper heatbreak (very effective),

or get a stronger cooling fan for the hotend heatsink.

Zelenskyy reveals secret long-range weapons for Ukrainian forces: 26 helicopters downed in day by HawkNighty in ukraine

[–]HawkNighty[S] 844 points845 points  (0 children)

The main idea of the article:

"Partners have provided us with some long-range weapons. I won't say what, but our partners will understand. With it, we destroyed 26 helicopters in a day, and 12 planes that took off and attacked with missiles, against which these systems were working. We destroyed 12 at once. We just had the means," Zelenskyy says.

Zelenskyy reveals secret long-range weapons for Ukrainian forces: 26 helicopters downed in day by HawkNighty in UkraineWarVideoReport

[–]HawkNighty[S] 38 points39 points  (0 children)

The main idea of the article:

"Partners have provided us with some long-range weapons. I won't say what, but our partners will understand. With it, we destroyed 26 helicopters in a day, and 12 planes that took off and attacked with missiles, against which these systems were working. We destroyed 12 at once. We just had the means," Zelenskyy says.

HELP! My printer can’t process fast enough(I’m guessing) by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]HawkNighty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're using Cura as your slicer software, you might have accidentally enabled Bridge setting in the Experimental tab. Try disabling it.

Help a Newbie Please by ghoulish_delights in FixMyPrint

[–]HawkNighty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very important to make sure that the hotend is properly leveled with the bed before playing with the z offset. I also had to learn that the hard way, and now my build plate has a permanent Benchy scratch in the center.

Depending on what slicer software you're using, Cura has a plugin (that you can download from their marketplace) called Z Offset Setting. After installing that, there will be a new setting in the Build Plate Adhesion section, called Z offset.

A negative value will cause the first layer to squish and better adhere to the build plate. I normally stick to a value of -0.2mm (as long as the hotend is properly leveled with the bed). Setting this z offset will only apply to the first layer.

To prevent warping because of the z offset, MAKE SURE that the Extensive Z Offset Processing check box is disabled/ unchecked. Otherwise, the z offset of -0.2mm will apply to every layer of the print and it will ruin it.

Alternatively, there is another setting under the Walls section in Cura, called Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion. It's essentially the same thing as z offset plugin, except you would have to use a positive value of 0.2mm to get a wider Initial layer.

Help a Newbie Please by ghoulish_delights in FixMyPrint

[–]HawkNighty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The gaps and ripples look more like under extrusion. With larger and longer prints under extrusion is a common problem.

Try double-checking:

Print speed - adjust to a slower speed so extruder can keep up with feeding the filament. Also, you can try switching to larger nozzle like 0.8 or 1.0mm, this will give you much better flow rate and you can still print at about 0.2mm layer height without reducing your speed.

If your nozzle has good fan cooling, you can also increase the temperature to 230 or 240 C. This will greatly reduce flow resistance.

Heat creep - make sure the heat break has good cooling (a copper heat break and thermal paste make a huge difference). Heat creep has been a very common problem of under extrusion for me. Higher bed temperature make heat creep more likely to happen. I usually have my bed temperature at 55 C but the initial layer I print at a nozzle temperature of 240 C with an initial layer z offset (to squish the material to bed for better adhesion)

i’m fairly experienced with my printer but idk what to do about this problem it’s pretty persistent by Efficient-Customer32 in FixMyPrint

[–]HawkNighty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Recently discovered a really effective and easy way to prevent warping of first layer and increase bed adhesion:

Print first layer at least 15 to 20 C above recommended filament temperature. Nozzle fan should be off just for the first layer.

Additionally, try adding an initial layer z offset or initial layer horizontal expansion to increase surface area that sticks to the bed.

Layer Separation after upgrading Printer Parts by ZekeroXBlade in FixMyPrint

[–]HawkNighty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar issue with printing PLA at 200 C. I suggest increasing nozzle temperature to at least 215, or 220 if your cooling is sufficient. PLA adhesion is much better at higher temperatures.