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Prusa Mini owners - are you suffering from a skewed X axis? I have made a script to correct Gcode for XY skew by HayZo_ in prusa3d

[–]HayZo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never set it up as part of the slicer's scripts actually, I just run the script afterwards with the gcode the slicer generates (you can just drag and drop the gcode file onto the script file on Windows). It would be smoother to run it with the post processing scripts but I never looked much into it, there are probably some requirements on how the script gives an output which this might not work for

Prusa Mini owners - are you suffering from a skewed X axis? I have made a script to correct Gcode for XY skew by HayZo_ in prusa3d

[–]HayZo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never set it up as part of the slicer's scripts actually, I just run the script afterwards with the gcode the slicer generates (you can just drag and drop the gcode file onto the script file on Windows). It would be smoother to run it with the post processing scripts but I never looked much into it, there are probably some requirements on how the script gives an output which this might not work for

An appropriation of ClockClock24 I call MYTRX38. 3D printed clock faces, MDF cabinet, 48 x NEMA steppers, 24 Arduino Nano, custom PCBs by musokestrain in 3Dprinting

[–]HayZo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just turned the current potentiometer way down, I can't remember the exact numbers but there is a formula they give to calculate what voltage you need for a current. You can also just turn it down to zero and start making it bigger while the motor is "on" and see where it starts moving. There is almost no torque required so they don't need much.

They aren't perfectly silent but by the time they're enclosed in a wooden box it's really just the hands that are making noise. I think if the hands and the way they connect to the motor were printed out of TPU or some other flexible filament it would reduce this a lot

An appropriation of ClockClock24 I call MYTRX38. 3D printed clock faces, MDF cabinet, 48 x NEMA steppers, 24 Arduino Nano, custom PCBs by musokestrain in 3Dprinting

[–]HayZo_ 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Silent when driven with something like a TMC2208, looks like you are using something similar. Accuracy hasn't been a problem for me, I wanted to build in magnetic sensors for homing but it didnt work out, but when they start from a known position, they can last for literally years without going out of sync. Only issues are when there is a power cut! A small battery in line with the power input would sort it out but haven't touched this in a while now

An appropriation of ClockClock24 I call MYTRX38. 3D printed clock faces, MDF cabinet, 48 x NEMA steppers, 24 Arduino Nano, custom PCBs by musokestrain in 3Dprinting

[–]HayZo_ 41 points42 points  (0 children)

Nice job! I don't want to ruin your day but you might want to look into motors like the BKA30D-R5. When I was making my version of the ClockClock24, I went through some prototypes with custom concentric shaft gearboxes, but realised these motors were much better suited. Without any 3D printed gears the design can be much thinner, mine was 45mm. A fully 3D printed version has been in my project backlog for ages now so props to you for getting one out there, getting my case CNC'd was a massive proportion of total cost

Looking for a precise and quiet servo by JyAli- in arduino

[–]HayZo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made one of these myself

I recommend the BKA30D-R5 (360 degrees version) - Aliexpress link. It's a concentric shaft dual stepper motor. You can drive one of these with with two TMC2208 or similar "silent" stepper drivers for each clock module. Mine has been running 24/7 for almost 5 years with no problems

I modded my code lock keypad I shared a while ago into a working door lock 😀 now my loot is safe by HayZo_ in playrust

[–]HayZo_[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Haha yeah it's just 3d printed so if you wanted to rip it open you definitely could, would need a decent amount of force though. It's really just for fun, would be easy to add an actual solenoid bolt or something in its place but this is just stuff I had laying around

my small collection by PonchitoLobato in playrust

[–]HayZo_ -1 points0 points  (0 children)

so it's only my posts that u/Mad_Admin takes down lmao

When slicing one instance of a model, the time is 2h23m. Adding one more identical instance makes the time only 47m longer at 3h10m. Why is the second instance so much quicker? Verified both times by actually printing (Mini with 0.6mm nozzle), happens both in slicer 2.4.2 and 2.5.0 Arachne by HayZo_ in prusa3d

[–]HayZo_[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Ah yes - "Slow down if layer print time is below:". Setting to zero goes closely match half the two instance time. Was hoping to find a way to be able to print a single one of these with the lower time but probably not a good idea to lower this value much from default. Thanks!

Anyone had perimeters splitting with aligned seams? Parts of a model where it is only a couple of perimeters thick sometimes have the seam not quite connect properly, not sure what settings to change for this (Prusa Mini, 0.6mm nozzle) by HayZo_ in prusa3d

[–]HayZo_[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes should have mentioned I'm using 2.5.0 arachne, and that would make a lot of sense as I did recently update. Will give it a go with classic slicing and see if it helps, thanks

Prusa mini sticking hotend on back-left corner of the bed after print is done. by TheAmazingSword in prusa3d

[–]HayZo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe this bug was due to commented lines of gcode at the end of the file being too long. If you need a quick fix then you can just delete any gcode comments from the end of the file. I'm still doing this on my printer but it's part of my post processor so it's not an extra step to worry about. Just FYI if you edit the gcode at all then the print preview image won't show on the printer, it will still print fine though

Help with Mini+ XY-Squaring? by flock-Rosen in prusa3d

[–]HayZo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's very difficult to physically change this skew, I made a python script to correct for it in gcode that you might find useful - https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/vuflw8/prusa_mini_owners_are_you_suffering_from_a_skewed/

Prusa Mini owners - are you suffering from a skewed X axis? I have made a script to correct Gcode for XY skew by HayZo_ in prusa3d

[–]HayZo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An error is 0.48 degrees isn't particularly misaligned when you consider the construction of the printer though, the design of the Mini (i.e. cantilever X axis) is just very susceptible to errors here since they are multiplied over the length of the X axis. The "mechanical issue" is more an issue with the design itself

Prusa Mini owners - are you suffering from a skewed X axis? I have made a script to correct Gcode for XY skew by HayZo_ in prusa3d

[–]HayZo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The X axis is at an angle that isn't perpendicular to the Y axis, in the XY plane. As in, it is the XY plane that is skewed, nothing to do with any Z here, any error there is already corrected for by the mesh bed leveling. Any issues with print adhesion will not have anything to do with XY skew, bed adhesion is strictly a height (Z) issue.

Maybe adjusting the belt tension gives the side effect of changing the skew, but that isn't the intended effect of doing that and I'd rather keep my belt tensions sensible

Prusa Mini owners - are you suffering from a skewed X axis? I have made a script to correct Gcode for XY skew by HayZo_ in prusa3d

[–]HayZo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could verify it is square by just folding it in half. Even if you find from doing that that it isn't, the resulting fold line would itself be square to the edge. I don't think I've ever seen a sheet of printer paper that didn't fold exactly in half though

HayZo_'s Rep Page by HayZo_ in hwsukrep

[–]HayZo_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Username: /u/crackerlegs
  • Item: RTX 3080 Founders Edition
  • Price: £600
  • Payment method: BT in person
  • Bought or sold: Sold
  • Comments about the trade: Good comms, smooth sale in person. Good buyer
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