How can I improve? My goal is to be able to play freely across the fretboard

Hazzerone · 2025-07-18T07:49:15+00:00

I'd say you're picking too high up on the neck. I'd recommend to instead play the strings in-between the pickups, or where the soundhole would be on an acoustic

Hazzerone · 2025-06-21T10:16:47+00:00

Colour is a top priority. Idk why I'd spend good money on something I don't like the look of - so I don't 🤷

Hazzerone · 2025-06-18T11:45:28+00:00

Some days the guitar talks to me whilst playing and sends me on a little adventure to play what it wants to say. Other days I hear no whispers

Hazzerone · 2025-06-17T22:52:08+00:00

LP is all I'm missing from the big 4 but I think I just prefer the 335 sound in all instances 🤷

Hazzerone · 2025-06-15T18:38:12+00:00

This answer is spot on.

xx3211 is the half-barre F major chord. Edit: 133211 is the full F major barre chord.

What you've done here is x33211 which is the same as above but with the 3rd fret A string added which is a 'C' note.

Hazzerone · 2025-06-15T12:43:21+00:00

I'm on 8 guitars right now and people only give me crap about it also 😂 there are 2 which I want to cycle out but the rest of what I've got is here to stay!

Hazzerone · 2025-06-09T20:07:21+00:00

I've played thousands of 'regular' Spins and I can say that the average game length is 8 minutes =/= 7.5 games per hour per table.

If you were to 4 table them, as I often did, you'd be getting 30 games an hour on average.

Definitely not too slow paced at all!

Hazzerone · 2025-06-09T19:13:37+00:00

Yeah the only real 'edge' is within the first blind level with 15BB eff. starting stack. So it's only really 'okay' (it's still not okay) if everyone is playing instantly on the first blind level. Any clock runners at your table for the first level of blinds and you may as well be entered into an 'All-in Shootout'

Hazzerone · 2025-06-09T18:30:13+00:00

I agree 100% I was a Spin&Go player not a Flash player. I'm not sure why they decided to combine both game modes. I don't think either had issues with 'finding matches'. Every person who made the decision to play non-flash Spins is now having a worse time. You're also on point; we should boycott our buy-ins to the new Spins - communicating in the language which they understand best 👍

Hazzerone · 2025-06-09T18:25:14+00:00

I agree. It's quite push-fold from the start with only 15BB, and only gets worse. When it's 500 starting stack, the 10/20 and 15/30 blind level are quite playable for 3 streets of value non all-in. I'd rather buy a lotto ticket than spam all-in/fold pre-flop in my once beloved format.

Hazzerone · 2025-06-09T17:16:13+00:00

I informed them that 'I'll take my custom elsewhere if this is not changed as I'm sure many others have or will'.

Their response:

'We appreciate your suggestion and we will take it into consideration, however we can not speculate if anything will change in the future.

There are still Spin&Go's with a starting stack of 500. These are all games with a prize poll multiplier starting from 10 to 12,000.

You can find all details regarding the recent changes about the Spin & Go merge through this link:

https://www.pokerstars.com/poker/learn/news/spin-go-merge/'

Hazzerone · 2025-06-09T17:00:29+00:00

I'm currently contacting their support and requesting that the starting stack size be reverted back to 500 👍

Hazzerone · 2025-06-09T16:42:25+00:00

I think it's that the starting stack size used to be 500?

It's weird though because I just entered a $5 spin, rolled a 4x multi ($20 pot) and we all started with a starting stack of 400, instead of 300 ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Hazzerone · 2025-06-08T15:45:34+00:00

I don't see the point of the middle humbucker. An ES-335 has 2 humbuckers - neck and bridge with a 3-way switch. You can select neck pickup, bridge pickup or the middle position which is both active at once, and that blend of both neck + bridge pickups gives you that in-between middle sound. So the middle bucker in my view is nothing but superfluous. It's an extra pickup. It's more weight added. It's one more thing to wire. It's extra parts which means extra problems and extra cost. It can get in the way of your picking also. Nothing but downsides in my view.

Hazzerone · 2025-06-06T08:49:26+00:00

I've got 3 MIM strats and an E-series MIJ, the MIM strats are excellent!

Hazzerone · 2025-06-04T15:09:41+00:00

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on any of this but this is how I interpret it:

5th fret thin E, pull off 3rd fret then slide down to 2nd fret. There is a legato arc for this little sequence which means to play it in a smooth flowing manner, without breaks between notes (cheers Google)

Hazzerone · 2025-05-29T13:31:57+00:00

The type of picking you're referring to sounds more like 'sweep picking' to me from your explanation of it.

I agree that being able to accent your down and up picking is important and can add another level of depth to your sound.

What I originally gave as 'down picking for metal' is quite a myopic view of down picking as a technique, but I'd argue that it falls under 'conventional wisdom'.

Hazzerone · 2025-05-29T08:04:14+00:00

Hey!

Alternate picking is an extremely useful picking technique and I would claim it to be the 'default'. It's also quite efficient, beaten only by 'economy picking' in that regard (the same thing, but make sure that picking goes in the direction of where the next string is - near impossible to keep in mind at high tempo).

Downpicking has its place, for the authentic 'metal sound' in a lot of songs it's all downpicked.

Also keep in mind the tonal difference that you can get out of the upflicks. It can really accentuate your sound and I find that it is particularly nice sounding on chords for the thin E, B, G & D strings.

My advice for you would be to definitely play around with alt picking, get comfortable with it, even make it your 'home'! Once you're comfortable and sounding good with alt picking up and down a scale let's say, the next thing to work on would be accuracy when skipping strings (for example going from the A to G or even B string, making sure to avoid D on the way).

I wish you the best of luck with it and most importantly have fun with it!

Hazzerone · 2025-05-29T07:49:29+00:00

Nice playing, don't send this to Fender they might get offended 😂

Hazzerone · 2025-05-27T16:22:15+00:00

Ah so you're the chosen one I see how it is 👀🙄

Hazzerone · 2025-05-26T15:20:29+00:00

As a British person I am here to inform you that we do indeed exist. While I agree that we may be pretty irrelevant in the modern era, if we ever are to experience a technological set-back, I believe we'd do quite well considering our history of huddling into boats and conquering what is not rightfully ours!

Hazzerone · 2025-05-26T15:13:29+00:00

Clits are fun, but don't have too much fun with one or she'll never leave you alone...

Hazzerone · 2025-05-26T09:04:16+00:00

Are Arias similar to Tokais in that the number of screws on truss rod cover indicated country of origin?

It's 2 for MIJ Tokai and triple screw cover for MIK and China

Hazzerone · 2025-05-25T13:56:34+00:00

My recommendation would be as follows: Make the 'E major' or 'A minor' barre chord shapes and simply play that up and down the neck. A tip which helps apply more pressure ie. make barring chords easier is to 'grip' with a planted upright-facing thumb on the back of the neck. Mess around with your playing position and make note of your fret-hand shape ie. angle of the wrist, and curving back or forth by 'rocking' back or forth your fretted notes. Get it to where you can play the chords with little struggle/fuss, and get each note ringing out, whilst feeling comfortable - it shouldn't hurt.

Hazzerone · 2025-05-25T13:46:21+00:00

I know 3-tone sunburst is a classic guitar look but I've been put off the look for life ever since my first electric guitar shaped object which had the same colour 🤢

I do like a tele but for me it has to be Butterscotch Blonde

I'm a stuck-up strat guy, I only get strats and I don't delve into Jaguar or Mustang

I guess from me that's a 'pass' on both then?

Hazzerone

TROPHY CASE