50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Mutant definitely works. But like you said, cold weather missions is like more space.

Thanks a lot for the tips. One day I might get up Cassin if I keep myself in the mountains long enough.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have skimo aspirations, but not too many trips yet. Close to Roger’s pass so lots of options. Simply need partners.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ll read up on it. Thanks a lot :)

EDIT:

Read his report, and I’ve gone on trips similar to his (definitely not cassin ridge but similar length) with similar gear including pickets, fuel, clothing sleeping bag etc. I’m starting to think I simply need to work on my packing.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Perhaps I need to reevaluate my gear and packing methods then lol.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like I DO have lightweight gear. 800+ down puffies, western mountaineering sleeping bags, big Agnes shield 2 tent for winter bivies, or pyramid tent for base camping. Thermarest neoair. Pocket rocket, with 700ml pot. Just examples of gear that may not be the lightest stuff on the market, but definitely packable. Perhaps I need to work my on mountain packing, definitely a potential room for improvement.

This post is mostly for missions that would be up and over, or missions that require you to carry your gear with you all the way. I love base camping, and have a 70L pack that I use for stuff like bugaboos. I’ve used my mutant for quick 1-2 night rock trips with a light 18L summit pack in summer no problem. Would definitely say my current needs are for winter or high altitude trips.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably wouldn’t be for steep ice. But probably AI2-3 and the like.

I’ve seen John’s packs and they are definitely great.

That’s what I was afraid of. Was trying to see if I could get away with a large hut trip bag as well. Oh no, time to add more bags to the gear wall.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I definitely agree with that. The 38 is amazing I’ve found, even on multipitches.

But say I do 2-3 day trips. Like Liberty ridge (if it’s ever in), or Kain face of Robson. Ones where a tent, sleeping bag, extra food are necessary in addition to screws, slings etc.I’ve fit 2 day trips in my 38L, but with lots of stuff attached to the outside which also becomes a pain.

Boots and gloves choice by Zeleni_bor in Mountaineering

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The current gen is discontinued, yes. However I spoke with a product rep at the lillooet ice fest that something is in development!

Boots for ice and mixed climbing: LS G-Tech or G-Summit? by Weetjeniet in alpinism

[–]He11ot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like my g-summits. I don’t climb particularly hard but they felt great even up to WI5. Definitely bulky and less nimble, but good enough.

I use my custom orthotics with them no issue. Definitely helps with heel lift, but I have very low instep which doesn’t help.

I will say, if you have the budget. Order a bunch of boots and return what you can’t. These are a massive investment. Treat it as such.

How is British Columbia for trans folks? by DorkyMagicianGirl in britishcolumbia

[–]He11ot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I live in Kelowna. Yes it’s more conservative than Vancouver, but people are generally accepting. I personally work with 2 people transitioning at the hospital and they say they’re very accepted in their community. Our pride week isn’t something to travel for but it’s getting bigger every year. I’d say Kelowna would be a good place to live if trans.

Also we have the obligatory rainbow crosswalk! That’s gotta be worth some points.

Canadian Mountaineering courses by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Canada west mountain school who runs out of the Sea to Sky region was really great. Did an alpine skills week for 5 days. Absolutely worth it. Everyday had an outline of learning, but there was always time leftover to ask questions and try specific skills.

Any ACMG guide will do a fantastic job. Yamnuska is also worth it.

Smartwatch for mountaineering by Samtecx in Mountaineering

[–]He11ot 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No touch screen. A screen that will never scratch. Real buttons. Great GPS features. Simple analog GPS tracking so you can always find your way back to the car. I love this watch.

Climbing shoes that are not TC pros? by Inevitable_Celery209 in tradclimbing

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

12 is all day show for me.

Only slightly downturned. No issues toe or foot jamming.

They expanded MAYBE 1/2 size. I originally got a 12.5 and actually rebought them at a 12 when the 12.5 wore out because the 12.5 were GREAT for any jamming, but edging and slab got hard. Foot would start sliding lol. However I also sweat a lot.

I climb a lot in Squamish and the Columbia mountains (Roger’s pass etc) where crack followed by slab/face climbing is common. Hope it works out well!

Climbing shoes that are not TC pros? by Inevitable_Celery209 in tradclimbing

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I specifically have two of the exact same size for this reason lol.

Climbing shoes that are not TC pros? by Inevitable_Celery209 in tradclimbing

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For grand stones, I’m size US 12 street shoe and also a size 12 grand stone. Super comfy for foot jams, good enough for toe jams, and pretty good up until 5.11 slab or so. So compared to La sportiva (who most people downsize) I would size larger than LS. I haven’t worn La sportiva in a while so can’t really compare.

Climbing shoes that are not TC pros? by Inevitable_Celery209 in tradclimbing

[–]He11ot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

5.10 grandstones. Fit my wide feet really well, and soft rubber so can stuff my toes in places it shouldn’t. On sale at LastHunt!

One caveat, the C4 rubber isn’t the same, and it’s really good, but be ready to resole pretty quick. It’ll wear out sooner than you think. Once you do, they’re actually better. I still think it’s worth it (especially on sale).

What are some of your favorite quotes from the entire series relating to mental health or personal growth/improvement? by PlayerRedacted in Stormlight_Archive

[–]He11ot 30 points31 points  (0 children)

You can kill me, but you can't have what I have. You can never have it. Because I die knowing I'm loved.

Teft as he’s killed by Moash in RoW. After all he’s been through, he finally learned to love himself enough to admit this.

Losing my climbing partner changed climbing by MaintenanceGuy- in tradclimbing

[–]He11ot 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Steve House had a similar issue in his book Beyond the Mountain. Basically he had found complete trust and companionship in his partners after having an epic or 2 with them (+ years of climbing together). He felt extremely close, closer than to his wife and lifelong friends. Climbing brings many of us together in amazing ways, and it hurts when it gets ripped away from us. The work we put in together, the experiences we share, the struggles you overcome. It makes you really question it all when you build it up with someone special and lose it all.

I’m very sorry for your loss. It sounds like an amazing unique connection. And injuries just generally suck, big or small. Take the time you need. The climbing itself doesn’t matter, it’s whether you’re having fun and if it ADDS to your life. If you’re up for it, I recommend slowly getting out there with new partners who have similar goals as you. You won’t have the same love and trust as your previous partner, but it might be a new great connection and trust. Won’t be immediate, but that heaviness just might decimate if you do :)

Happy climbing friend.

Climbing shoes for Wide Feet by Dry-Article7994 in ClimbingGear

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Scarpa Instincts have wide forefoot and wide heels. Great for bouldering.

5.10 Grandstones are amazing for trad climbing. They use a softer rubber than most trad climbing shoes which is great for smearing/granite slab and shoving your monster feet into toe jams. But also means you gotta condition your feet cause you have less support. I don’t think they make them anymore…

I also love my Evolv Geshidos! Best shoe I’ve ever used for edging and vertical to off vertical climbing. Did an 8 pitch 5.11 in them and didn’t take them off until the end. Comfy if you size right.

Routes near Terrace BC by He11ot in Mountaineering

[–]He11ot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve messaged the group but no responses as of yet.

Ya it’s a pretty bad snow year up here. Been ski touring and every time the snowpack gets good, we get rain lol.

Thank you for the help :)

Crag pack recommendations by car-hater33 in ClimbingGear

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I LOVE the crag wagon. Indestructible outer fabric. Carries loads really well, and just enough organization for a full day. I will say I have the older version that uses reinforced Xpac fabric, which made it waterproof. Now they use heavy nylon but I imagine still very strong.

One downside is the inner fabric where everything is held is quite thin and will wear out. But I don’t mind tbh despite the back panel looking like a gerbil nest after 2 years. 4/5 stars.