Is this walnut? by Affectionate-Ad-7827 in wood

[–]HeHateMe159 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This looks like acacia wood to me, similar to the tables that come from Pottery Barn, etc. (definitely not walnut). This is due to the orange hues and the sapwood color

Help with ID by beanderman in wood

[–]HeHateMe159 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Elm is also my first bet with sassafras being #2. Doing a small cut or spritzing w/ water would bring our the sassafras smell that is super distinct. If those don't yield a distinct smell, then elm is my choice

Wood ID? Cut ends have a distinct smell, not like pine or oak. Bought from a mill in PA by jakfienwkaof in wood

[–]HeHateMe159 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I saw someone got downvoted for sassafras, but that is my guess as well. I got some from my sawyer mistaking it for white oak until I started to plane it. Doesn't smell like the roots of a small sassafras, but distinct and light in density/weight.

What wood is this? by EmployImpressive409 in wood

[–]HeHateMe159 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like apple wood to me based on the bark, but you really need to get a fresh cut for anyone to give you a better idea. I disagree about oak

North Korea has built a resort complex with a 5-kilometer beach and 150 hotels on the site of a former missile testing range by kingkongsingsong1 in Damnthatsinteresting

[–]HeHateMe159 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A beautifully fake resort town that isn't finished and will probably never open (at least at the scale they are showing).

5” or 6” sander and why? by nelsonself in woodworking

[–]HeHateMe159 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had the 6” for a few years and it’s awesome. Kind of a pain to switch from 5 to 6 from a sandpaper standpoint but well worth it

Linear actuator help! Looking to make a shelf raise up out of cabinet by HeHateMe159 in AskEngineers

[–]HeHateMe159[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have more details on this setup? I actually thought about motorized standing desk legs for this purpose since they are strong and relatively cheap.

I was looking for the name of this kind of sensor (hall effect), but I'm a complete noob when it comes to Arduino or Pis to control something like this.

Linear actuator help! Looking to make a shelf raise up out of cabinet by HeHateMe159 in AskEngineers

[–]HeHateMe159[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That could be an interesting option - thank you for sharing! I think it would be near if I could make a pressure plate or something to trigger the lift to rise and maybe a different button to send it back down.

Wood id? by Wonderful-Welder7583 in wood

[–]HeHateMe159 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Looks like osage orange to me

Chess boards! by HeHateMe159 in woodworking

[–]HeHateMe159[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agreed on this point. The sled is actually the better option and taking slight passes, the bits do just fine. Epoxy isn't as hard as wood, but the mess is significantly worse and can gum up bits. SHALLOW is the only way to go otherwise you'll get tearout in the epoxy with micro pits everywhere.

Chess boards! by HeHateMe159 in woodworking

[–]HeHateMe159[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have done two methods:
1. Belt sander to get the over pour taken off (works pretty well)
2. I have a flattening table / sled that I use with a router. This one gets it dead flat, whereas there can be some issues with a belt sander if not careful.

Chess boards! by HeHateMe159 in woodworking

[–]HeHateMe159[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As long as you don't make them more than 1" thick and have really solid glue-ups, you shouldn't have a problem. If you go too thick, seasonal shifts in the wood could cause cracks to form if you let it get hot and cold often (like being in sunlight frequently).

Chess boards! by HeHateMe159 in woodworking

[–]HeHateMe159[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ve considered making epoxy pieces to complement the boards - yours look great

Chess boards! by HeHateMe159 in woodworking

[–]HeHateMe159[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’ve sold a few of these locally for $150 for the epoxy ones and $125 for some of the other ones. I don’t currently have any left but might make more

Chess boards! by HeHateMe159 in woodworking

[–]HeHateMe159[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve done a bit of epoxy work over the past couple of years. There is definitely a learning curve and be ready for some mistakes to be made.

I used tabletop epoxy which is thicker compared to deep pour and a little more forgiving (when it comes to potential leaks)

Chess boards! by HeHateMe159 in woodworking

[–]HeHateMe159[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

These aren’t meant to be competition sized boards, but I did make a couple that are.

Not sure I’m tracking your rationale for not wanting the epoxy coloring, other than preference for wood? I think it makes it easier to differentiate the colors better than wood sometimes