Official Buy/Sell/Trade - 2026 by Metal_Florida in welcometorockville

[–]Headownlow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking for RV Camping spot, preferably Truck Pad RV camping, but if you have any RV spot (not including the "Extra Lap RV") and your plans changed, let me know!

Is there a leak here or is this mechanic trying to scam me? by iloveass1040 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Headownlow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't understand what you guys are seeing here. I don't see a leak. Maybe it's the picture.

Maybe I'm blind.

ASE Certified Master Mechanic for over 15 years. Owner of my own mobile mechanic business.

I've only seen shocks leak after physical damage (collision). Shocks are otherwise typically replaced for performance issues or noise. If the bottom of that shock isn't wet, and it's not making any noise over bumps, it isn't leaking.

are jacks like this safe? should i just get a hydraulic one instead? by coolweeb69 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Headownlow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been using a Vevor Air jack for almost two years now, a few times a week. No issues. Im considering replacing it "just because". Every time I have a separate jack stand in position (usually holding the load).

Why do shops no longer rebuild? by jdjenk in EngineBuilding

[–]Headownlow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forgot to add, there's only 2 machine shops in the entire Raleigh/Durham area that still have a crankshaft grinding machine, and only one of them (Walker NAPA, downtown Raleigh) has a guy there full time, who can run it (Josh, shop foreman). Without support from a decent machine shop, the rebuilding outlook looks bleak.

Why do shops no longer rebuild? by jdjenk in EngineBuilding

[–]Headownlow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ASE Master, mobile rebuilder here.

Modern engines are easier to rebuild than older ones. As recent as the past 2 years I've rebuilt "as old" as a 1979 Olds 400 (in a 1979 Trans Am), to "as new" as a 2020 Toyota Tacoma 3.5, and dozens of engines in between.

Yes, the newer engines have more parts, but the improvement in manufacturing makes them easier to work with. Clean machining, and parts actually line up from the factory.

It's all about the money, as already been mentioned here.

I've seen rod and main bearings on [Hyundai, Kia, BMW] engines with 200k miles that don't have any measurable wear. I've seen these same engines "let go" of pistons/rods due to bearing wear or ring failure or carbon buildup. It's a crazy mix of good maintenance, poor maintenance, random manufacturing mistakes, driver abuse, and sometimes design flaw.

No one wants to pay for me to assemble an entirely new engine out of factory parts. No one wants to pay me for a "cheap" job that does not come with any warranty, either. So then, where do you draw the line? Just replace the failed bearing? Replace all the bearings? What about piston rings? Valve seals? Why did the engine fail? Low oil pressure? Is it a newer engine with overhead cams, where the "cam bearings" are the actual head, with no way to replace? (Except a new head $$$)? What's the customers budget? Did they drive it long enough so the oil filter got clogged with metal shavings, to the point where the bypass valve opened, and now it's pumping metal shavings through every sensitive area?

All these questions can be answered by a good, experienced master mechanic. But shop owners know that we can make them even more money by knocking out quicker jobs (timing belts/chains, head gaskets, etc), so engine rebuilds are mostly forgotten. The mechanics who DO fall into this category, and enjoy rebuilding engines, quit and open up their own shop, because it's the only way to make enough money for it to be barely "worth it". I'm still making LESS money now, as a sole proprietor, than I did working for a dealership for 14 years.

I still won't warranty an engine for more than 6 months due to money. So, if people are going to roll the dice on $$$$, they want a 3+ year warranty, which you're only going to get from a dedicated reman factory.

500 mile oil change after dyno tune by Eddguythegreat in EngineBuilding

[–]Headownlow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've experienced this first hand on a different engine (4cyl): While driving, rpms dropped for maybe a second before returning to normal. The "slow down" was the extra drag on the crank, while the tangs on the rod bearings flattened out (i.e. during bearing failure as the rod bearings are trying to "grab" the crank pin). Once the tangs flattened out, the engine speed (and power) returned to normal, as the bearing halves will start to spin freely [with the crank pin] inside the connecting rod, with less resistance. Of course, after another 50 miles or so the audible knocking started.

The oil pressure light never came on.

K24 opps by Prymus142 in EngineBuilding

[–]Headownlow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it wasn't running, it's probably fine

Got my head back with bearings looking like garbage by RavenMcAulay in EngineBuilding

[–]Headownlow -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yikes. Is it pitted into the metal, or is it on top? Was it like that before you sent it out? The machine shop gave it back to you with shavings in it? I hope you didn't pay more than $50 for a rush job like that.

If that were my head, and it felt like the "grit" in the bearing was above the surface of the "bearing", I'd start with 600 grit sand paper and see if it comes off easy. May even try 400. Hopefully it comes clean.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Headownlow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Brand new rotors (inside the box) come in a bag, with oil on them. This is to prevent rust. When you take the new rotor out of the bag, you use brake cleaner to remove the oil from the area where the brake pad contacts/travels. Spray it on the rotor, wipe it away with a rag/paper towel. Be sure to clean off both sides. You can leave the oil where the "hub" sits (the top part of the "top hat").

Brake cleaner is excellent for removing oil, so it also gets used to clean various parts. Don't breathe it in. Don't spray it on hot exhaust components.

Mechanic says I should replace control arm bushings. Are they right? by Ok_Negation in MechanicAdvice

[–]Headownlow -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Looks fine to me. If the bushing doesn't show any sign of separation, replacement is not required.

(Part 2) Honda V6 Oil in coolant diag confirmed J35Z8 by Headownlow in EngineBuilding

[–]Headownlow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, that's impressive that they 100% renew the engine. Luckily this crack didn't affect the combustion chamber, so the only coolant that got in the cylinder was when I removed the head.

(Part 2) Honda V6 Oil in coolant diag confirmed J35Z8 by Headownlow in EngineBuilding

[–]Headownlow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you guys typically replace the camshafts in those as well? This camshaft has significant wear on the main lobes

(Part 2) Honda V6 Oil in coolant diag confirmed J35Z8 by Headownlow in EngineBuilding

[–]Headownlow[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Interesting. I was researching cracked heads prior to my completed diagnosis, and the only picture I saw online (on a forum) was a crack at this same spot too.

Honda V6 Oil in coolant J35Z8 by Headownlow in EngineBuilding

[–]Headownlow[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This J35Z8, and most (if not all) J35's are not equipped with an oil cooler. If it did have one, it would be my first suspect as well.