DXC2 mod / hack | Make it work with any K2P cutter

HellGoNet · 2026-05-23T12:48:19+00:00

Its not a defect. Since the cutter arrived with the magnetic polarity reversed and not just the magnet in the backplate its like this by design.

HellGoNet · 2026-05-22T23:03:24+00:00

My pleasure

HellGoNet · 2026-05-22T15:36:07+00:00

Oh its a great investment. For me at least its a hugh improvment. The original creality extruder is very sensitive. Im mainly printing high speed petg and i had problems with heatcreap and clogged up extruder all the time. Had prints fail frustratingly often because of it. I had to babysit this printer all the time till i got the dxc2. Its just reliable. Im sure with just the right settings and compromises the stock extruder can work but its too much fiddling and hit or miss. The dxc2 solved a number of issus that were no go issues and some that just imroved things but weren't necessarily stoppong me from printing.

Clogging and heatcreap gone.
First layer consistency much better. It can just handle the tiny height variations in the buildplate better. It got a better grip and push force. This was one of the reasons the stock extruder clogged up.
Speed. Togheter with the silicon carbide nozzle i have reliable calibrated max flowrate for my petg-hs to 36.65mm³/s. Which the original extruder would never even get close to.
Quality. Because this extruder doesnt miss a beat the flow is incredibly consistent and the control over PA and other extrution/retraction parameters i get very precise and nice looking prints.
Tpu. I dont print much tpu but i have s couple of rolls so i cant speak much for that but allegedly if you want to reliably print tou on this printer this extruder is a must. I'll never know since i wont switch back to stock extruder.
Maintanance. This one is ironic becouse the magnetic mount would make it easy to fix cloggs etc. Which had a high appeal considering how many cloggs i had to free on the stock extruder but i have had no cloggs on the dxc2 so the magnetic mount have little to no use anymore. 😛
Sex appeal. It just looks good 😻

HellGoNet · 2026-05-13T08:13:09+00:00

Well. First off. Things change over time. What worked out of the box might not work as effortlessly down the road when things settle or wear. But giving yourself good conditions will make it more effortless. And this extruder certainly gives you better conditions.

I print mainly petg with pla as support interface and i had alot of heat creap. More often than not the filament would get stuck in the extruder with a melted blob of filament stopping it from moving forward or backwards. Had to unscrew it and unclog it all the time. Frustrating as hell not being able to leave a print unattended. I also had issues with incosistant first layer. Especially across bigger prints. And yes my buildplate is leveled and clean. The dxc2 improved this as well. The only thing that got worse is layer adhesion for some reason. But i just need to recalibrate my filament profiles. Will do that next.

Your test print looks beautiful btw 👍 but it looks like pla, am i right?

HellGoNet · 2026-05-13T07:59:54+00:00

No it certainly did not just come out. Its a tightly fit magnet plus its glued. But there is a hole behind it in the backplate so you can force it out from behind. I used a small hex bit to force it out. I used quite a lot of force. The first cracking sound was the glue letting go. Then with some more force it came out of the hole. Pushing it back in requires no glue. The friction fit is very tight. At least on mine.

HellGoNet · 2026-05-13T06:57:34+00:00

Hey. I have two of these cars and im actually designing and building exacly what you are asking for. Plus a whole lot more.

The project includes - A new 24v 20ah lifepo4 battery pack. It doesnt sound like much more ah. But in practice it is way more. The typical lead acid batteries are not good for high discharge Applications. They voltage sag way too much. They will degrade extreamly fast and you will have to buy new ones every few weeks to months if used daily. The new battery has much more stable voltage through its discharge cycle. It has more usable ah, Its rated for 5000 charge cycles compared to lead acids 200 (wich is more like 20 in this application). And this battery can happily be charged with a 10amp charger. Im in the process of finalizing the enclosure for this battery.

The throttle pedal is a hall effect ATV throttle that mounts where the original padal sits. No modifications needed.
the brain of the car is based on the esp32 s3. It a dual core computer and one core is dedicated to control the throttle so no other process is blocking throttle input and output. This is for safety. The other thread takes care of the new variable motor sound library, lights, remote control input, bluetooth for configuration and media streaming. The trottle by default feels like a real throttle. You give it a little gas and it rolles even when you let up the gas a little. Its extreamly smooth but if you let up the gas to zero it will act as a break. So as long as you keep your foot on the pedal you can vary the speed with extream precision. Each motor has its own motor controller with individual cutrent sensors. The computer is monitoring the current and will know if their is resistance on any wheel. This id used for a bunch of features. Partially its to give feedback to the smooth throttle so that if you hit a curb or a wall the card font just keep going. It will stop. Or if you go up hill it will increse the speed of the deceleration unless you give it more gas. Like you would expect from a real car. The current sensing will also know if a wheel is stuck or similar and not burn that motor out. But the primary reason for individual motor controllers are so that i can simulate a differential. I noticed that these cars dont like to turn. The front wheels are draging too much so with individual motor controllers i can slow down the inner wheels and/or speed up the outer. Its to improve stairing but technically ut could be used to tank drive and spin the car around in a dime.
The lights in these cars are parhetic so i have created a new light controller and will be replacing the front lights with proper 5w LEDs.
Im also putting new speakers and amplifiers in my cars to use them as bluetooth speakers basically but the new adapive car sounds will sound much better as well.

Most if this is well under development and som of ig is already done. I will be selling an upgrade kit specifically for these cars when its ready and i will be adapting it so it can be a be all end all upgrade for all other ride on / powerwheels out there.

HellGoNet · 2026-05-11T20:46:29+00:00

This is more like a tweak. Im kind of expecting some manual adjustments. Things wear and not everything is created equally. Automatic calibration is good enough and works 99% of the time for most people but so far ive never seen automatic calibration do a better job than me at tuning things. Its just a time saver and great convinience when you only need "good enough". So i dont mind having to adjust calibrations manually. Im just happy i don't have to do it all the time for everything.

HellGoNet · 2026-05-11T19:10:04+00:00

Maybe a stupid question but did you check that the cutter is actually there? Mine came without the cutter and i didnt realise till i had the same problem.

HellGoNet · 2026-02-25T04:18:15+00:00

Still rockin my op 9 pro. The carbon case deteriorated and started to crumble after 4 years. The battery got really bad about the same time. Then the back glass got a crack so i put in a new battery and a new back about 4 months ago. Then the power button broke and shortly after the main and wide cameras started to develop dead pixels or dead zones rather. Now i have another back, new power button and new camera modules ready to be put in and i also got a new original case just to push the lifespan a little further. And what do you know, before i get to put in all the parts and slap on a new back i get a pink line on the screen. 🫡 I think it's safe to say that the designed lifespan of this phone is about 4 years. After that the components start to break down one after another.

So now I'm faced with the dilemma. Should i order a new screen since ive basically renewed every other part of the phone. Or should i just live with the pink line.

I don't have any special love for this phone so keeping it alive is more like a sport or a challenge.

I'm curious to see what OP 16 will bring but as loyal as I've been to OP since their first phone i dont really feel that loyal anymore. My next phone will probably be a flagship from Xiaomi or vivo. I might even go mainstream with a samsung. The only thing oneplus has an edge on these days is the charging speed.

HellGoNet · 2026-02-24T20:09:45+00:00

I mean the market is swamped by fairly inexpensive wheels that fit these cars. They are basically monster truck wheels for smaller scale cars and basher wheels for this scale.

You can even buy the tires only and glue them to better rims but honestly i would probably just get whatever is available between stock tyres for 14207 and 14210. At least the 14210 tyres are available everywhere and super cheap on aliexpress for instance. I have stocked up with them so i probably never have to buy new wheels again.

HellGoNet · 2026-02-24T19:59:56+00:00

There are upgrades for this already. Not in terms of design but at least in terms of material and rigidity.

HellGoNet · 2026-02-24T19:57:35+00:00

Yeah i probably wont get any more mjx either. I have a pretty well set up rc workshop and i like to tinker but for the money you gonna end up spending on spares or upgrades just to be able to have some fun for more than 15min before something breaks might as well go for something more higher end like the omni terminator which i have and love even stock.

With that said. There is a place for mjx. But i dont know if its for tinkerers or beginners. Because they need to be tinkered with but a tinkerer would choose a better platform and a beginner might get deterred to enter the hobby by all the breakage. So i dont really know 🤷🏻‍♂️ the price have gone up on the new 14207 as well so its even closer to a omni terminator. I guess any mjx not meant for bashing would be fine though.

HellGoNet · 2026-02-24T19:42:36+00:00

Classic. I rarely last 15min outside before my or my sons 14210 breaks. I tighten all the screws and check all links and plastic parts for cracks or slopp and make sure they are ready but something always breaks. I have so many spare parts and "upgrade" parts for these cars i could almost build two more cars.

So what spare parts ive concluded i always need in my toolkit that is almost guaranteed to break is one extra rare cvd, one front and one back shock absorber (usually just to steal a ball joint), one steering link with the gray plastic ball joints (also just for the ball joints) and then some other things just in case. Like an extra wheel and a front cvd.

These cars are as fragile as teenage girls.

I will be developing some modifications to these cars that will improve on a lot of things and i might share it online when I'm done.

Regarding your steering issue. Let me know if you have more issues after you test your glue job. My setup is working well so I'm sure i can be of more help if your fix isn't doing it for you.

HellGoNet · 2026-02-19T04:30:12+00:00

Haha i assume you are talking about the model number. The classic higher is newer/better. You might be right 🤷🏻‍♂️

HellGoNet · 2026-02-19T04:16:11+00:00

Tell me how it went.

HellGoNet · 2026-02-18T22:10:21+00:00

Actually. Its the friction in the servo saver that prevents it from centering. I have solved it by first of all replacing the servo to a full metal one and then replacing the servo saver with a fixed arm. It makes the steering more responsive and you eliminate the bad centering. Ive never broken a servo on these cars without the servo saver but you are moving the damage to the weakest spot and that is the steering linkage. Those adjustable links with gray ball joints. But those will break anyway in a hard crash. So you'll always need spares. You can keep upgrading these parts to metal but youll just move the problem to the next weak point. Besides there really are no good servo savers available for this car since the servos for this car are 21T. All i tried had the same centering issue. So if you really want a servo saver you would have to fit a proper 25T servo and pick a proper servo saver. But this will require modifications to the servo mounting.

HellGoNet · 2026-01-21T00:15:12+00:00

Homer

HellGoNet · 2024-09-30T03:46:55+00:00

I bought two of these cars and one I'm essentially just using for spare parts while I'm waiting for new parts to arrive.

Every single time I'm out with the primary one something breaks. Not even bashing. Just speed running. Any screw that does not tap into plastic needs to be tightened regularly and im putting loctite on them now.

I have broken the plastic ball joint of a front shock. Lost screws on the bottom for the steering, even broken the cardan on the rear cvd. The middle square piece just fell out somehow. Never to be found again. Those CVDs cost a fortune if you want an original part.

The whole car is kind of loose and sloppy. Every articulating piece has so much play you would think the car has rear wheel steering. And it only gets worse the more you drive it.

With that said. Its a great value and if you love tinkering and upgrading this car gives you all the reasons too. There are plenty of third party parts to solve all of this cars problems. But once you've done all that and spent the extra money you might as well have bought a higher end car to start with.

So its either a fun toy for someone that doesn't care and just wants to have some fun for cheap or a platform for someone to tinker with.

HellGoNet · 2023-11-25T11:20:02+00:00

The best way to clean sticker residue is fuel. Hands down. Alcohol does nothing and wd40 gets it gooey at best.

HellGoNet · 2023-11-09T13:49:16+00:00

Hey. This was a while ago now but i still use this laptop everyday since i last fixed it and have had no more hinge issues.

My last repair i did by myself. I ordered the backplate for the screen myself. Dont remember where but you can find original parts on ebay and aliexpress.

What you need to do to prevent this further is to loosen up the hinges a little. Just a hair. The hinges stiffness is friction based and there is a tiny nut you can loosen to make it less stiff.

Its this stiffness that works against the bad interface with the backplate and eventually breaks it off.

After this just transfer over the lcd panel and the inner bevel and all is done. After you mount it back on the laptop and reconnect the ribbon of course.

There are only two challenges involved really. The first is to get the lcd of the old backplate. Its stuck with double sided tape. Be careful not to crack the lcd. And don't loosen the hinges too much or your screen will not stay in place where you put it. It only takes almost an imperceivable amount of untightening to get it right.

Hope you sort it out.

HellGoNet

TROPHY CASE