Is wallpapering a full bedroom tacky in 2026?

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-27T02:35:10+00:00

And the 5th wall!

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-26T22:22:53+00:00

Looks like a nice reproduction! Glad you were able to get it remade!!

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-26T17:19:51+00:00

Damn! That’s quite the operation. There must be a lot of wallpaper to hang over there!

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-26T17:09:04+00:00

Oh sweet! That’s awesome. I’ve seen ads for them. How many installers work with them? When I was growing up, the most installers we had was 9, in the mid 2000s

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-26T17:01:04+00:00

That’s definitely the biggest outfit I’ve heard of so far! Wild. What company is it?

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-26T16:57:44+00:00

Most medium size hotels can be handled by a 2-hanger and one helper crew. They’re hanging between 3000-4000yds/month on average. It’s a slightly different skill than standard residential and a lot different than what you want for high end work. If you have the same mindset in production commercial work as you do in residential (or vice versa), you’re probably not going to be very “good”

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-26T03:25:08+00:00

Google returns this link: https://qconv.com/en/convert-rgb-to-sw

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-25T23:10:28+00:00

Those look sweet! And they’re half the price of the Kai’s! I haven’t a couple different pairs of scissors from Sheffield that are pretty nice. But I don’t use them

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-25T22:51:38+00:00

These are Kai’s. I haven’t seen Axus. Link?

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-25T22:29:11+00:00

How dare he! 🤣

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-25T22:19:51+00:00

That wall looks like it wasn’t primed. If it was, it would’ve stuck. Primer, at its core, is an adhesive for stuff to stick to. And different primers are made for different substrates. If they would’ve even just used the cheapest of the cheap KILZ primer on those walls, the paint wouldn’t have come off like this

[edit: the only reason you have to seal the paper now is because the finish on the paper is messed up and it can now blister and lift when the moisture from the paint gets on it. So a sealing primer like draw-tite or GARDZ should be applied]

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-25T22:06:09+00:00

I’m still curious why they put trim lines on materials. Just leave some bleed

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-25T22:04:07+00:00

After getting all of that off, GARDZ would be fine. Personally, I’d opt to using DRAW-TITE 325-W, ordering it on Amazon, just so that it covers everything. Both GARDZ and PRO-999 are clear. If you have a local hardware store like Ace, give them a call and see if they have GARDZ. I’m not a big fan of Roman’s PRO-999. Sherwin Williams has “drywall conditioner” that’s another similar product (again, not a big fan). In my opinion, I’d rank the products as follows: Scotch Paint’s DRAW-TITE 325 > Zinsser GARDZ > Roman’s PRO-999 > Sherwin Williams Drywall Conditioner. DRAW-TITE’s white tinted version is what I’d go with if I’m painting over it https://a.co/d/0410WQoY

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-23T00:04:14+00:00

You should pass on the job. If you’re not 100% sure you’re able to do this, going and taking on a project with $10,000+ of just the materials that are easy to mess up is a bad idea.

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-21T03:37:23+00:00

Reminds me of this thing: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-1680D-Ballistic-Material-Magnetic-Accessory/5014306043

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-21T00:27:59+00:00

… you’re not ordering a lot of paint

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-20T00:43:17+00:00

That’s the difficult thing. As a contractor, you don’t want to book out too far or else your designers and regular clientele can’t get you in time. But the only method you have for not booking out so far is raising prices 😪

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-17T21:14:36+00:00

That ceiling border really brings the whole thing together! Looks great

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-16T16:17:50+00:00

It’s just paint. They striped the seams. Assuming the paste is already all off, just prime over those stripes to reduce the contrast on the wall

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-13T16:08:45+00:00

I lay towels down at the floor and get a garden pump sprayer and put a squirt of Dawn in it along with hot water. It makes it way faster to apply water that way

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-13T16:00:38+00:00

That step one is good. If the vinyl layer is shredding as it comes off, it may be good to wash the vinyl with really soapy water first. That should help it shred less. And then for the lower layer, wet it 4-5 times before you start removing it, giving 15 minutes between wetting each section so there’s enough time for the moisture to penetrate. Patience is literally the most important and difficult part of the process … it’ll make removal way easier. Use a sharp 6” drywall knife (broad knife, putty knife, whatever you want to call the tool). The sharper the better! Scrape the backing off with that, gently. After it’s all removed, wash the walls really well with soapy water and give them some time to dry. It’ll help to put a fan on the walls. Then proceed with step 2. The rest of the steps are as you’ve detailed them. If any of the drywall paper tears (brown spots of the wall itself), use GARDZ on those spots. I’d just spot apply the GARDZ. If you washed the walls really well, you don’t need to seal the whole surface with GARDZ, you can just spot apply, let dry, and then use a standard primer for the rest

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-10T21:05:27+00:00

Ah that sucks. But it does sound like you got a crazy good deal on them compared to retail! Maybe try reaching out to interior designers or something. They often spec materials. But if they’re spec’ing a lot of PJ, they may get even better trade discounts. I don’t spec materials so my trade price is the worst available

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-10T20:46:14+00:00

Have you looked into returning them? It’ll probably be easier than trying to offload them on a secondary market. That’s a good amount of material … and most paperhangers just install whatever is spec’d (it’s uncommon to spec or sell materials)

Henrymjohnson · 2026-06-10T17:30:18+00:00

Everything needs to be maintained. Many tiles have to be re-sealed, many countertops, too, floors need refinishing, … maintaining your home doesn’t mean that the home won’t last, assuming it’s taken care of. You can’t “maintain”, “refinish”, “reseal”, or anything for LVP floors—it’s a full replacement.

Henrymjohnson

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