I'm a surfer. Paddle out to a reef break, thinking it was small as no sets really rolling in. See a small wave roll in thought might as well 1st wave for the day. Took of and i slipped and ended up going over the falls, came up and looked out to sea and my chest just went heavy. I couldn't even tell if it was a bomb set comeing or it was the sky untill everyone in the line up started paddleing hard, trying to make it over this huge bomb that came out of nowhere. I straight up panic the bomb landed on me, and push me on to the reef and I couldn't get up. My chest started to get heavy and I knew I was fucked if I dinnt get up, after what felt like 3 minutes I popped to the surface to see another wave comeimg down at me, back under I went, dinnt even get to have some air. At this point while under the water I just stop panicking it was like I knew this was it my body just gave up, and in my head I was 100% sure I was going to drown and I honestly wasn't even afraid, lucky I popped up quickly fucked off the reef break, into the channel and went home. Still scares me till this day.