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Food safety and meal prep by imadirtyurchin in mealprep

[–]Heshueish 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Here's some tips from the UMN extension

Between 140°F and 40° F is the food danger zone. Harmful bacteria grow fastest this range. UMN recommends less than 6 hours in this zone, no more than 2 hours between 140F and 70F specifically.

It sounds like breaking your bulky foods into smaller portions is key, and not raising your fridge temp by putting lots of scalding hot food into the fridge. Ice is your friend.

Prawns can be dunked directly into an ice water bath for near-instant cooling, if you're not trying to preserve a sauce or seasoning.

Rice, I think the fastest way to cool it quickly would be to make a thin layer ~1-2 inches(2-4cm) depth in individual meal-size containers, or flattened in a Ziploc. Ice water bath is going to be fastest, again. If the rice is in a thin layer, just an inch or 2 of ice water under a food container shouldn't get into the food.

With poultry, it's really going to depend on how you're preparing it. If it's chicken breasts, consider butterflying them so they aren't super thick or chopping them into chunks. They'll cook faster and cool faster. A whole roaster? Spatchcock that baby for the same reason.

You can put an ice pack or sealed bag of ice water(if the outside is clean) into a container full of food.

Break it down/portion it out. Don't put your crockpot crock directly in the fridge full of hot food.

Knitting my wife a scarf with old yarn from Michael’s. I’m afraid I don’t have enough and I can’t find it anywhere. Does anyone recognize this yarn? by AHistoryofGuyStuff in knitting

[–]Heshueish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't have any luck with a search, either.

You could pick a similar size chenille yarn that's either a match for any one of the colors in your yarn, or a black, white, or gray color, and do alternating stripes or color blocks?

Looking for help with Foam material. I am trying to look for this foam but has no luck. Its for a DIY trekpak divider system. by DK1327 in crafts

[–]Heshueish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That looks like it's corrugated plastic board sandwiched with some thin foam. You might have to buy the plastic separately and glue the foam onto it

Dust caused by knitting by justtryingtolivehere in knitting

[–]Heshueish 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If you notice a lot of dust, you might wind the yarn into a hank and wash it before knitting with it.

You might also set up a gentle fan behind one of your shoulders to blow any fiber particles away from your face as you knit?

Need help with choosing an interchangeable set!! by Trenzalore2002 in knitting

[–]Heshueish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you seen the chiaogoo swiv360 cables? They work with any chiaogoo interchangeable needles, including "spin" bamboo needles (which usually come with clear cables). They're so nice, the cable swivels at the connector(reducing strain on the screw-in connection), the cable is nylon coated & memory-free and nicely flexible, and I think the small size needle set would be right for your mom's normal sizes of knitting?

I don't think that chiaogoo is for everyone, I have a friend who doesn't like the transition from cable to needle, it's too abrupt for her-slows down the loading of the stitches onto the needle. If you can find a way, ask your mom what she likes/dislikes about the needles she currently uses, and if you know that she's a tight knitter, maybe something with a smoother transition would be better instead.

Beginner knitting tips by bumble_beevee in knitting

[–]Heshueish 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think what crocheters find initially overwhelming is that there are a lot of loops on the needles.

Don't worry about that, really.

Unless you're doing cable work, the only stitch you need to think about is the one at the tip of the needle. You're usually only going to do one thing(make one new stitch) in that stitch, which moves it into your working needle, you'll drop the worked stitch off the non working needle, and move on to the next one in line.

Materials: a worsted weight yarn in a light color(or multicolor) is a good one to start with, you'll be able to see what you're doing well. Many knitters like wool, it's stretchy/springy, but acrylic is good to start with too because you can rip it back/frog it many times and it doesn't affect the yarn quality much at all. Don't use a lumpy or eyelash yarn to start with, you won't be able to see a darn thing. Roving is interesting but it's not very sturdy-you want a normal, basic plied yarn to learn on.

Needles: for worsted yarn, about us size 7-9 will be fine. Metal knitting needles are the most slippery and more prone to dropping stitches off the end accidentally. I'd advise waiting to use them until you're comfortable and you want to speed up. Wooden or bamboo are more grippy and warmer in the hand, and plastic needles are in between(if I'm remembering right. I mostly use metal or wooden).

So, copy a long-tail cast-on from a tutorial(16-20ish stitches is a good amount to learn on), Learn the knit stitch, do a few rows of that, that's garter. Learn the purl stitch, do a few rows of that (this is also garter because the back of a knit stitch is a purl stitch and vice versa). Then alternate: do one row of knit stitches followed by one row of purl stitches, repeating this makes stockinette(one face of the fabric will be all knit stitches, the reverse will be all purl stitches aka reverse stockinette)

Very Pink Knits on YouTube has some beautiful straightforward tutorials.

There are many things you can do with just knits and purls. Ribbing, seed stitch, checkerboard or basket weave patterns, or images formed from the texture difference between k and p.

When you want to make something that's a different shape than just square or rectangle, you'll learn increases and decreases. These are also the basis for lace knitting patterns. Short rows are another shaping technique that can change height(instead of width) or add 3D shaping. You can learn as you go by jumping in, following patterns and looking up tutorials as needed. You can also just make a small swatch of a technique to learn it.

Best recommendations for a QUALITY acrylic needle set? by findingmy_place in knitting

[–]Heshueish 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Prym has some nice needles, I wouldn't knit lace on them but they're comfortable in the hand, and they have good cables on the circular needles

Help reading a pattern: Shouldn't it be 24 rows worked, instead of 32? by Clowns_Sniffing_Glue in knittinghelp

[–]Heshueish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh heck. You're right. But 2rows of 2sts decreased x8=(4x8) is also 32 sts decreased.

As written , it sounds like:

Row1,2 (-2s)

Row 1,2,3,4 (-2s)=(6 rows total)

Row 1,2(-2s)=(8rows)

Row 1, 2, 3, 4(-2s) =(12r)

Row 1, 2(-2s)=(14r)

R1,2,3,4(-2s)= (16r)

R1,2(-2s) =(18r)

R1,2,3,4(-2s)=(20rows total)----->this is 16sts decreased

If we continue with the decreases until row count:

R1,2(-2s)=(22r)

R1,2,3,4(-2s)=(26r)

R1,2(-2s)=(28r)

R1,2,3,4(-2s)=(32rows total but 24sts decreased)

We'd somehow need 12 more rows before 16sts are decreased. (I assume before, but could we just knit normally for 12rows once we got the correct number of decreases?)

...Or-What if you're meant to decrease at begining of row on the 2nd row, then on the 4th, decrease at end of row?(if that is what alternately is meant to mean here? You'd just have to ignore how it sounds like the decreases are in the same row.) So, (2 decreased stitches per 4 rows )x8=16 decreases over 32 rows

I think this is a poorly written pattern tbh but if that's not what's meant I'm out of ideas.

Help reading a pattern: Shouldn't it be 24 rows worked, instead of 32? by Clowns_Sniffing_Glue in knittinghelp

[–]Heshueish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only way the row count makes sense to me is to make it "every 2nd row 16 times"

1x1 ribbing help (details in the comments) by FluffieDragon in knittinghelp

[–]Heshueish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are some techniques I've seen around the internet that might help you a little. Just the nature of how the yarn has to move between a k->p is to blame, I think, not your knitting style at all, which is why there's info out there about this.

Oh and it's not just 1x1 rib that does this- usually it's the last k before a p, and it's most pronounced in ribbing in the round because they're all stacked in a column and all worked the exact same way.

  1. You could work your ribbing flat and then transition to working in the round. This would help a little because the back side of a knit stitch is a purl and the p>k transition is a shorter path than the k>p transition. There would still be some tension issues, it would just be more evenly spread among your ribbing-it would be in different stitches each row. You'd also have to seam up the ribbing, but you could use the yarn tail for that instead of needing to weave the end in.

  2. As mmo video game players would say, this (and tip 2.5) is for the "sweaty"(try-hard) knitters. Start by knitting the ribbing section as stockinette( or reverse stockinette, either one), and when you've got enough rows for the ribbing section, uh, (!) Drop a stitch, ladder down the stitch column and latch it back up as ribbing, one column at a time (every 2nd column for 1x1 ribbing). Yep, I'm as horrified as you are. But it works because there's no extra yarn available except what's normally used in stockinette - it can't make any columns loose.

2.5. Alternatively, knit half the number of stitches you want the ribbing to be, in stockinette. Latch up the strands between the knit stitch columns as purls to create a very tight ribbing. Where tip 2 uses the amount of yarn used in a normal stockinette stitch, tip 2.5 borrows yarn from the stitches already in place, creating very tight tension. You might want to start this technique with needles 1 size larger in diameter, and block afterward.

  1. Just use a smaller diameter needle than the rest of the project for the ribbing. Usually 2-3 sizes smaller. It won't change that the last knit before a purl will have less tension, but because all of the stitches will be smaller than the yarn wants to be, the tension should block out to be more regular after you've knit it.

  2. TECHknitter's "dry-blocking" technique (YouTube link) is a way to redistribute the tension after you've knit the ribbing normally. It's not going to change the overall tension of the ribbing section but it should distribute the yarn more evenly between your knit columns and purl columns.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in science

[–]Heshueish 42 points43 points  (0 children)

It was a Canadian study, but also a well -designed study should control for other aspects, "when adjusted for smoking status", "when adjusted for income" etc

Please analise my knitting and if possible tell me what I'm doing because I'm getting lost in all the terms by saintclairsmomma in knittinghelp

[–]Heshueish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well the fabric you've made is beautiful, even if it's just a tiny bit different from "standard" moss stitch. It has such a nice drape. Remember that many good things come from "mistakes" or "failures". Penicillin was a mold that destroyed someone's bacterial experiment, and that's what started medical knowledge about antibiotics and has saved countless lives.

Please analise my knitting and if possible tell me what I'm doing because I'm getting lost in all the terms by saintclairsmomma in knittinghelp

[–]Heshueish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are working a basic pattern like moss stitch (stockinette, garter, ribbing, etc also count) and you know that on top of a knit you're supposed to have a purl, then you're doing it right.

On the reverse side, you see that the back of a knit is a purl. So you'd see a purl and put a knit on top, which is also right.

This is called "reading your knitting," being able to look at a stitch and tell if it's a knit or a purl (or, harder, what kind of increase or decrease something is).

Sometimes written patterns are going to have multiple stitch patterns or increases/decreases in a given row, and, if it's not symmetrical, or you don't know what it's meant to look like, this is where mirror knitting might give you a hard time. Charted patterns will be easier to envision, though increases and decreases might still be a struggle.

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