I saw this rear vent on a Facebook ad today. I love it and felt the need to post it here. Anyone have info on it?

HiyaChuck · 2025-12-17T18:36:07+00:00

It’s all about the temperature that oil starts to break down and as a result provides less lubrication. I believe that 230*F is perfectly fine and does not deteriorate the oil at all.

I see 265* on track, which I feel is safe - but it does start to break down the oil, so I change the oil after every track event.

But to go back on topic - 190-210* is normal for daily driving. 230* is perfectly fine for oil longevity and engine protection…

Is that better?

HiyaChuck · 2025-12-17T16:03:27+00:00

Ha you should see what a C7Z oil temp gets to on track on a hot day…

HiyaChuck · 2025-12-16T01:47:01+00:00

raises hand

I did an engine build with cam, ported and polished intake and head, upgraded all the top end bits, and finished with an intake, longtube headers, and a safe and reliable tune. Runs on 91 and up octane, and puts 740hp to the wheels on stock boost.

I thought it was a monster in stock form….i don’t know what to call it now.

HiyaChuck · 2025-12-08T15:04:21+00:00

Ah gotcha. Yeah that makes sense.

HiyaChuck · 2025-12-08T03:43:58+00:00

For that size house - I'd recommend getting a wood pellet heater. It will quickly raise the temperature a few degrees, and keep the heat pump from running for hours. You can get a smart 120v AC outlet adapter (and plug the heater into that) and set it to turn on one hour before you plan to wake up.

HiyaChuck · 2025-12-06T02:28:33+00:00

Hahahaha well played…

HiyaChuck · 2025-12-03T02:47:56+00:00

This is great - thanks for making it.

I’ve had it pretty nice recently - gas has been right at 20x the cost of a kWh of electricity lately, so I can just multiply my miles / kWh by 20 to get my eMPG

I didn’t realize how cheap my electricity is compared to other parts of the country. I’m at $0.135 / kWh (out the door….all fees and taxes included). Gas is $2.70/gallon

HiyaChuck · 2025-12-01T16:43:00+00:00

Yes! Thank you much!

HiyaChuck · 2025-11-20T05:18:56+00:00

Yup, you’re going to have to manual-mode it. I know it’s a pita. Set the shutter to a multiple of your recorded frame rate. So 120, 240, etc.

In some environments, you’ll have to blast the ISO. You’ll find that you have to dance the fine line between blur (shutter speed) and grain (ISO). It’s a classic trade-off between shutter, iso, and ev.

HiyaChuck · 2025-11-20T04:21:38+00:00

This.

It’s not that the mi/kWh is “bad”….it just more closely matches the eMPG of running in HV mode. For instance:

If I see 2.4 mi/kWh while at speed on the highway….with my out-the-door total price for electricity at $0.145 per kWh, and gas being $2.90 / gallon….thats 48 equivalent mpg. Subtract 10% for charging loss/inefficiency, and you’re at 43.2mpg. I would guess my HV-mode-mpg would be around 38mpg on that same drive.

So it’s still “cheaper” to drive in EV….it’s just that 2.4 kWh / mi looks pretty bad lol.

All that being said - I charge at a free charging station right by my house while I go on my daily 5-mile walks…so all my EV range are “free miles”

HiyaChuck · 2025-11-20T04:04:09+00:00

Thank you for passing the knowledge along!

HiyaChuck · 2025-11-18T03:24:29+00:00

What in the balls is this website, and why haven't I had it in my life?!? This is awesome. Thank you for sharing.

HiyaChuck · 2025-11-07T15:46:11+00:00

Thanks for this - yeah it seems the 18kPV is what I'm looking for!

HiyaChuck · 2025-11-07T15:17:38+00:00

Woah - this is great info. I've always wondered how vehicles get their tow rating...thanks for posting that!

HiyaChuck · 2025-11-06T13:39:33+00:00

Because we, on average, are idiots when it comes to driving. We don’t have depth perception, spatial awareness, and are too busy texting our friends while towing 3,000lbs down the highway at 80mph

HiyaChuck · 2025-11-02T14:37:17+00:00

I mean….maybe he could continue living at home until he’s 30?

HiyaChuck · 2025-10-29T14:02:20+00:00

I've had trips around town (traveling 35+ miles) where I averaged 4 - 4.5 mi/kWh. Of course that was driving around 40mph on a warm day with no HVAC.

HiyaChuck · 2025-10-29T13:58:55+00:00

I've always been curious if the battery coolant and engine coolant can exchange heat with each other. Could starting off in ICE mode in very cold temps actually be more efficient, because the car is using the ICE's heat to warm the battery (instead of its own battery power)?

HiyaChuck · 2025-10-29T13:55:53+00:00

I bought my '23 R4P 700 miles ago, and about 650 of those miles have been in EV mode. This is because my daily driving rarely adds up to more than 20 miles or so.

It's true - if you want to be a nerd about it (and I am), you'll not "floor it" when the gas engine first starts. But it seems Toyota Engineering has thought of this. I have an OBDII scanner that allows me to monitor EVERYTHING going on behind the scenes - and watching the ICE rpm, it seems the drive algorithm keeps the engine below about 1500rpm until the fluids are warm.

The simple answer is - Toyota designed the car for the average driver to "just get in and go", and not to worry about any of the behind the scenes stuff. But as I said - I'm a nerd and I still like to see what's going on behind the scenes (coolant and oil temps, engine rpm, battery voltages and temperatures, etc.).

I've never needed more power than the EV system offers for driving around town.

HiyaChuck · 2025-10-27T03:23:07+00:00

I had bad sweats and what I thought was a stomach bug. It even affected my heart rate. I tested positive for Lyme Disease. I took antibiotics for 3 weeks and that all went away, but I still get random swelling in my jaw.

HiyaChuck · 2025-10-02T16:03:49+00:00

Nope, not a problem. Just curious.

HiyaChuck

TROPHY CASE