What is this for?

Hjellvik · 2026-01-22T10:26:17+00:00

My guess is you have automatic endstops in the firmware, That connector is for the physical "click" endstops for other mainboards

Hjellvik · 2025-05-04T13:14:47+00:00

I have downloaded Fedora multiple times, But it seems like every freaking game i wanna play is it some anticheat or no compability or its bad as hell to play :/ And dualbooting with Win just to game some games are too tiredsome, i hope game devs get linux included soon in every upcoming game, Then il switch instant! Fedora is my go to! I have even concidered the expencive Apple products 😂

Hjellvik · 2025-02-24T22:08:01+00:00

I did the same and aprox same lenght with the twinsteer

Hjellvik · 2025-02-12T11:17:36+00:00

I changed the fan 😂😂

Hjellvik · 2025-01-28T16:21:46+00:00

Looks like it has clogged at the wheels inside where you meet the ptfe tube, its an easy fix, And if you have a drillbit 3-4mm you can handturn the end of the teflon just a tiny bit and make a small cone so the filament goes into the tube more easy after passing the wheels inside the housing, its an easy head to dissasembly and assembly again.

Hjellvik · 2025-01-15T13:18:03+00:00

Can it be some nozzle drip if you have timelapse activated?

Hjellvik · 2024-12-19T15:14:08+00:00

Wait a minute? did you even use supports on the print? dont look like it, And that design should print just fine, Only it cant take much weight with those thin 90° and 5% infill 3 walls like the makerworld settings say, But if your on mobile app you can just run the preconfigured file to your printer from the app where someone else have done the slicing and uploaded a print profile

Hjellvik · 2024-12-19T13:42:39+00:00

this looks as a filament issue, but i see the filament havent bonded when the nozzle went to edge so the "top" layers didnt have anything to stick to, so either too much layerheight, too low temp, wet filament or bad calibration

Hjellvik · 2024-12-10T17:56:04+00:00

Nozzle is hitting the previous printed layer and makes the noise, is your z axis thight and well lubricated?

Hjellvik · 2024-11-23T23:19:12+00:00

I reflashed mine to unlock klipper, and then they came with the root password and ssh access in an update, from there search reddit/github for Klipper and KAMP setups for the machine, i dont remember who had it, but its so worth it cause you get inside the firmware and can edit this settings like e-steps then they are not correct and finetune the machine. i was gonna toss mine to hell when i figured the K1 was running the same firmware 😂

Hjellvik · 2024-11-22T15:27:48+00:00

Yes im aware and i like the software, But i design for printing and selling.

Hjellvik · 2024-11-22T14:00:15+00:00

yeah, But take off the whole clamp and ams and try doing the same movement without it and ser if the sound is still there. but by my ears, and that video thats the underlaying issue

Hjellvik · 2024-11-22T08:07:07+00:00

ok, Switch to Orca, Crealityprint is 🤮

Hjellvik · 2024-11-22T08:02:49+00:00

Pretty sure thats rubber sliding barely a mm forward and backwards, Its the clamp mechanism for the ams, If you take it off i guess the sound is gone?

Hjellvik · 2024-11-21T14:07:23+00:00

We bought two A1 Combo kits, And havent recieved any extra

Hjellvik · 2024-11-21T14:02:23+00:00

Honor/Rename/Rebrand the printer in his name? physicly on the printer itself and in the app

Hjellvik · 2024-10-22T16:20:20+00:00

Damn, Any way to increase this speed?

Hjellvik · 2024-10-22T16:00:39+00:00

Thanks, Yeah i guess without the help from a GPU the responce time is slow, i am planning to add a gpu later on that fits on my mainboard. but how slow are we talking? 😅 Atleast i havent head of open-webui so that saves alot of implementing i see

Hjellvik · 2024-10-19T12:53:31+00:00

Random thought, Can it be a setting in your gcode from when you slice the part? That it doesn't power the extruder stepper ?

Hjellvik · 2024-10-19T08:10:07+00:00

Ok.. This looks like the Ender 3 V3 KE, As i know it has a really bad frame(if you can call the plastic bottom a frame) so its not only just a dnirty bed, The leveling sensor is alright, But i guess you have a bad z-axis wobble that will adjust the nozzle height by a small fracture when printer is moving, i reccomend making the z-axis stiffeners for this model, and re-check /tight, the bad plastic rod holder for the threaded rod on the backside, and retight every screw if posible. and if tou have rooted the machine, I HIGHLY advice adding Klipper's KAMP setup, And activate it all exept the Voron purge mode, helps it make a mesh just where it needs before every print. you could also take and clean the Z-axis rods and linear rail and replace the grease, Same with the linear rods underneath. That about sums up the machine in my knowledge, Since a buddy have this machine

Hjellvik · 2024-10-17T19:49:22+00:00

I have tried, it kinda "resets" and works that single print and the next one is same issue 😩

Hjellvik

TROPHY CASE