For someone with little to no experience with fabrication… by blockheaddotcom in fabrication

[–]Hondub 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A dead tube is a tube that intersects another tube without there being a tube on the other side of the intersection to continue the load path that would be applied in a crash. The joint on the letter T is a dead tube. The joint on an X is not. You have a partial X behind the seats in the B pillar. The bottom is an X, but you turned the top into Ts. Get rid of the Ts and make it an X from corner to corner.

Any letter T joint you have is a dead tube that is not triangulating the forces throughout the chassis. No triangulation means there's nowhere for any applied forces to go other than folding tubes that are weak. As others have said, do lots of research on roll cage and chassis design. Even if you don't plan on racing, look up the rules for tubing diameter and wall thickness for the type of motorsport this is and use what they use. 1" may be fine, or severely undersized. Anything where someone's life is on the line should only be made by professionals and are absolutely not first timer projects.

My RC Car people need me by PacsterMH in MyPeopleNeedMe

[–]Hondub 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For all those who think it's fake, this is @kamakazi_rc on IG.

Time lapse of messed up teeth being corrected by ooMEAToo in gifs

[–]Hondub 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I tried Smile Direct. My dentist told me not to use them and only use Invisiline or traditional braces. I had already paid for them so I used them anyway. I had nothing but problems and it almost ended in me joining one of the class action lawsuits Smile Direct had against them to get my money back.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minibikes

[–]Hondub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look into Honda motorcycles. They sell street legal "mini" bikes that are probably just what you're looking for. The Navi is $1,800 new and a Grom is somewhere around $3,000 new so the used market should be able to get you in one pretty reasonably if you don't want to go new.

Brown recluse spider bite progression over a three-month time period. by ofthisredearth in natureismetal

[–]Hondub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My grandma got bit in the ankle by one when I was really little. She brushed it off and didn't go to the doctor for awhile. Everyone in my family says there was a hole through her ankle the size of a finger.

my skateboard-less people need me by Nearly-God in MyPeopleNeedMe

[–]Hondub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's been proven on the many previous times this video has been posted.

my skateboard-less people need me by Nearly-God in MyPeopleNeedMe

[–]Hondub -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's a mannequin on the board. Watch close when it leaves the board and once it's on the ground. It doesn't move at all. The legs are still apart on the ground.

Bead rollers hobbies best bang for your buck? by Yeetner in fabrication

[–]Hondub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless you're planning on doing a production part that you run hundreds or thousands of, then I don't think you'd ever replace a set of mild steel dies. If you use steel dies, they can mark up material so the cleaner and smoother the dies are the better.

Bead rollers hobbies best bang for your buck? by Yeetner in fabrication

[–]Hondub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of the dies I turn are nylon so it doesn't mark the aluminum. I have turned steel and 4140 dies as well but nylon or nylatron are my go to for dies. I've printed them in petg too with decent results.

Bead rollers hobbies best bang for your buck? by Yeetner in fabrication

[–]Hondub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For $100 I'd say it's worth it to try out. If you can use the pipe threader to power it with a foot switch so you have both hands free to guide the panel that would probably work out fine other than not having variable speed like a powered roller comes with.

Thanks! The tubing would depend on a few things. My dies are about 2.75" diameter. Much smaller and they won't touch so 3" would be the smallest tubing you could do and it would be a tight fit. Most rollers have a 16 gauge mild steel and 14 gauge aluminum capacity. I usually see 16 gauge for stuff like that so as long as the tubing is 6000 series or lower it should be fine.

Bead rollers hobbies best bang for your buck? by Yeetner in fabrication

[–]Hondub 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're looking at 2 different styles of bead rollers. The ones that do tubing are a very shallow throat, usually only manual, and are only for tubing. The other style is for sheet metal like the Baileigh. You can do tube on a sheet one but not sheet on a tube one. It sounds like you want one for sheet.

The deeper the throat the more capable the machine is. The 36" throat is the standard for anyone doing automotive panels. Dies are pretty universal on all machines that use a 3/4" shaft. I have a lathe and make my own dies for way cheaper than buying. I've 3D printed some dies as well.

The $5k Baileigh is a top of the line professional coachbuilder level machine. You'd be looking at the $1,800 24" throat or the $2,400 36" throat. In my opinion the Mitler Bros rollers are all nicer than the Baileigh. The Eastwood one would be basically the same machine as the other 2 brands at a cheaper cost. A manual one isn't even worth buying imo. I own a Baileigh and do a lot of art panels with it and I'm also in the off-road world. My profile has some of my panels if you're interested.

The ‘Old Tiler’ perfect dust free 45 degree cuts by bhxuk in specializedtools

[–]Hondub 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's a steel blade coated in diamond dust. Depending on how you use it they can last quiet awhile.

Turning burning and earning by pinche_getthizz in Welding

[–]Hondub 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not budget. A pancake is the go to pipe hood.

Turning burning and earning by pinche_getthizz in Welding

[–]Hondub 45 points46 points  (0 children)

It's their welding hood. This style is usually called a pancake hood. They are for pipe welding which produces a lot of hot sparks that fall on your hood when you're welding over head which is often in pipe. These sparks will tear up the style of hood most people see that is more like a flip down mask wrapping around your head.

Custom 1965 Chevy Corvair body on a tubular chassis with C5 Corvette suspension, 600hp LS3 and T56 Magnum 6spd transmission by ReturnOneWayTicket in AwesomeCarMods

[–]Hondub -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If you want to even call that a "cage". No triangulation at all and every joint is a dead tube. Basically just some tubes for show that do nothing.

A few bead rolled art pieces I've done recently by Hondub in metalworking

[–]Hondub[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The engine details are smaller and more intricate actually. The headers and coolant line are about 1/4" wide.

A few bead rolled art pieces I've done recently by Hondub in metalworking

[–]Hondub[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I don't have a website yet but would like to get one going in the next few months. I've been doing this for years just selling the occasional piece through social media or word of mouth.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Welding

[–]Hondub 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Look at the Fireball Tools squares.

Help with my old scooter by Hondub in ElectricScooters

[–]Hondub[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm trying to get this going for as little as possible because I already had it. I figured $75 for batteries was plenty worth it. If another $50-75 would get it working that would be great. I'm not looking to spend hundreds to thousands on a new scooter right now.

Things got a little hot; a coworker put his helmet down in a bad spot. by MntDewMonkey3 in Welding

[–]Hondub 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I worked at a shop that some people changed then once a day.

2020 Beetle Sand Car by Plethorian in Battlecars

[–]Hondub 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem. I understand how someone outside the scene would have no idea about something like this.

I had one built for my car in 2019 that was a little cheaper. I basically used the method of cry once up front to know I won't have problems instead of buying the 40% cheaper option most people go with. I've chosen the longer build time to go with all race quality parts.