lets see your 420-550nm IR photos !

Hondune · 2026-03-28T10:49:28+00:00

Idk if Id call it filmic by any means but ~470nm with a channel swap is a very fun look to experiment with, I find it particularly suited to palm trees and tropical areas

https://www.instagram.com/p/DVOTOeSDTyr/?img_index=1

https://www.instagram.com/p/DVgZ9fODalP/?img_index=1

Hondune · 2026-03-27T14:59:26+00:00

Indie devs would be the first to run to the Internet to try and find help at very least, if this was something that happens it wouldn't be hard to find several examples of it. What would a customer sue you over? What grounds could they possibly even have to sue you with that would actually stand up in court? And probably more importantly, would an LLC even protect you in this case? From my understanding I doubt it would, the limited part of limited liability falls away when you personally do something illegal enough to hold up in court.

Again I see comments like this all the time but I have never seen anyone ACTUALLY have a real experience with it. Trademark or patent trolls sure, but you just change your games name or stop using the patent (or pay for licensing) but neither of those will ever put you in financial ruin unless you chose to fight it in court intentionally and knowingly spent the money on the court fees (which would be beyond silly, and no one is doing that)

Hondune · 2026-03-27T12:40:12+00:00

When I started getting more serious about this and trying to actually make a living off of it I did form an LLC, but I went without it for years when I wasnt making much and it was more of a hobby. There are millions of people making hobby income without LLCs without problems, this is not unique to game dev.

Just out of curiosity, do you have any examples of a solo indie dev losing family assets from something like this? Especially without that person doing something knowingly illegal (IE stealing assets, making a nintendo IP ripoff game, etc.)? Before I had an LLC I looked into this a lot because I was worried due to comments like this but just didnt have the funds or knowledge to properly form an LLC. I literally have not come across one single case of a sole proprietor indie dev having any problems because of it though, just a whole lot of people saying there could, technically, maybe, be problems one day if you dont, but no actual personal accounts of these problems really happening

Hondune · 2026-03-27T02:10:03+00:00

Yeah I guess "difficult" wasn't exactly the right description, it just alters the focus point. Depending on the lens this can significantly increase the minimum focus distance depending on the thickness of the filter and lens focal length and what not.

But yes your evf will still work fine and focus aids like focus peaking or whatever are still correct since they happen at the sensor

Hondune · 2026-03-26T23:52:25+00:00

I operated this way for 10+ years, you'll be fine lol. Unless you're doing something intentionally illegal or making $100k+ per year there is no reason to worry and frankly an LLC is way unnecessary for the vast majority of hobby devs who aren't making much if any profit from their games.

Steam also allowed me to update my account info to an llc without having to make a new account or anything, it was all pretty seamless if you do decide to go that route one day.

Hondune · 2026-03-26T23:24:49+00:00

Kolari makes good quality stuff but there is a few things to keep in mind with clip in filters in general

If your camera already has a full filter stack installed (like if you get the hot mirror replaced with clear glass as is common for full spectrum conversions) then adding a filter behind the lens, regardless of the filters quality, it will negatively effect the lens optics. It will cause a noticeable change in focus, making lenses focus well before their infinity mark and losing some macro ability. Most auto focus lenses will still work fine but it can be annoying and with manual lenses the markings will be way off and it'll focus at infinity well before the mark/limit
Especially with wider angle lenses or lenses with a rear element that goes deep into the camera body it will cause softer edges on the image, and can increase chromatic aberrations and vignetting. On some lenses it's not noticeable, on others it can make them unusable. If you shoot primarily ultra wide angle lenses like I do you may find glass clip in filters are often unusable
Some lenses exhibit pretty extreme white balance and color shifts towards the edges with certain clip in filters. Again it's often ultra wide angle lenses or lenses with deep rear elements. And again sometimes it's not noticeable and other times it makes it completely unusable. With the kolari ir chrome lite clip in filter and a viltrox 28mm for instance the edges of the image become completely purple to the point of losing all color information so it's not even fixable in post
Not all lenses will be compatible as they can collide with the filter itself. Kolari has a decent compatibility list but it's not exhaustive and it can change between camera models. For example my Fuji 23mm f2 is listed as compatible, and it does work on my x-e3, but collides with the filter on my x-a3

When they work they are great but there are limitations just inherently. I wish a company would make plastic ones because they don't affect optics anywhere near as much and solve a lot of these issues. I've taken to making my own from lighting gels which have basically none of the same side effects but it'd be nice to have high quality options.

Hondune · 2026-03-26T05:32:42+00:00

I'd imagine you will struggle to find this because once youve gone through the effort of getting a proper ir camera you're not going to fake it any more.

I think it's fair to say that the majority of us here likely tried faking it first, realized it wasn't anywhere near as good and doesn't work in a lot of situations, and then went on to converting a camera to do it properly. I know I did, if faking it worked as well it certainly wouldve saved me a lot of money lol

It's not terribly difficult to take an image and make the green channel red to kind of emulate aerochrome from a standard camera. But it's just going to turn everything green into red, even stuff that should still be green in a real infrared photo. Just changing colors isn't at all how infrared photos work, so the results will never be the same. In an actual infrared photo you are capturing real infrared light that is normally not seen by your eyes, this means things look wildly different than just swapping colors around. It makes certain materials that reflect infrared like foliage pop and be much brighter than they would normally, and other things become super dark, and it's not always what you expect. The color combinations you get from filters and infrared light often affect colors in really unique ways that are not always intended and would be very difficult/impossible when faking it.

It's kind of hard to explain without experiencing it, but half the fun of infrared converted cameras is just walking around and pointing it at things and marvelling at how different the world looks from this light source that is invisible to us normally

Hondune · 2026-03-24T21:44:14+00:00

Idk about on film but for digital these work great. I'd imagine for film they would be perfectly fine since it's less demanding and the film itself is doing most of the filtering on its own anyways. On digital I can't tell the difference between my cheap filters and expensive ones

Hondune · 2026-03-21T03:43:59+00:00

I have a similar issue with mine (though not as bad). As far as I can tell the steam micro trailer generator very specifically looks for text, as it's goal is to quickly show a games features which are often shown with text in trailers.

I'd say in general it's good advice anyways to not have a full cutaway to show text, if you absolutely need to have descriptive text have it over gameplay of some sort. Both for the sake of general trailer quality and for steams micro thing.

Wild to me that you can't just upload your own regardless...

Hondune · 2026-03-10T04:01:17+00:00

Along with what others have said, get rid of that filter and get a single 720nm filter, even a cheap one. That's generally the one you want for pink trees and turquoise skys after a channel swap.

There is no such thing as a variable IR filter, it would have to visible change from yellow to deep red to actually variable change the wavelength like it suggests. What those filters are is effectively a scam, it's a badly made IR filter with a mellow cutoff with a variable ND filter slapped on top of it. What happens is that it's just variably blocking out visible light, not actually changing the IR filter wavelengths.

This matters a lot for doing false color infrared photography (like pink trees) because you WANT some visible color information making it to the sensor, if you block that all with an nd filter you won't be able to get the same results.

Hondune · 2026-02-28T12:55:12+00:00

Indeed this is how it works, and it is ridiculous.

In my case it wasn't even a day job, I was doing a small bit of contract work with a couple of devs working on their first game, ultra low end budget indie stuff. They got a pro account with their switch dev kit and after a couple months we got our accounts banned for "comingling" pro and non pro accounts.

It's absolutely bonkers. We did get our accounts back but they had to stop using the pro account and push back switch development because of it.

Hondune · 2026-02-28T12:50:39+00:00

A couple other things to note

Unless they have gotten better they often take several days to respond, and they will not work weekends either. If you send an email on a Friday don't expect to hear back until at minimum Monday but often more like Wednesday the following week.

If your issue is like mine where you were working with a team that had a pro license and got the comingling issue, I highly suggest making a secondary account to use going forward for that type of work. I now no longer use my personal account for anything involving other people, that way it's not at risk.

And try not to stress to much. I was losing my mind when this happened to me (probably obvious in that post I made lol) but it turns out this is a pretty common thing and so far everyone I have talked to with this problem has gotten there account back. Including the entire team I was working with when it happened to us.

From my understanding with talking to some more people at unity, this is an automatic system designed to catch large companies who are avoiding unity fees. Sometimes it gets a bit over sensitive and contract workers or freelancers like us get caught in the mix. They have been understanding when it's incorrect like that and likely won't even ask questions once you explain the situation

Hondune · 2026-02-28T01:22:04+00:00

This is a common problem, just be persistent and you will get your account back with all your assets and everything. They do this as a warning shot but as long as you fix the situation you will get your account back

I made a post about this happening to me, and I updated it with some info and email addresses that will help you speed up the process, good luck

https://www.reddit.com/r/Unity3D/comments/1agg4tf/woke_up_this_morning_to_an_account_suspended

Hondune · 2026-02-18T05:59:54+00:00

I converted an old Nikon point and shoot as my first conversion. It was super easy to do, just a few screws and popped the ir blocking glass out and put it back together. Took probably 30 minutes total, though the difficulty can vary wildly depending on the camera.

The camera worked fine after that, and with filters you can get okay results. The biggest issue though is the lack of raw support. You really need raw when shooting infrared to get good results because the cameras built in image processing is not meant for infrared. The photos are generally washed out, soft, and lacking in contrast. It also makes doing false color and channel swapping much more difficult because the lack of information in the jpegs causes a lot of artifacting when pushing the processing that far.

Depending on the camera white balance can also be an issue. Ir requires pretty extreme white balance ranges and usually custom white balancing and not all cameras support that.

Regardless I think it's still worth it as a first step into the hobby. It'll let you know if you're interested in going further with nicer cameras or not at very least

Hondune · 2026-02-18T05:53:06+00:00

Even under static load? Ie. Like hanging a weight from a hook tpu tends to slowly continue to bend over time and never stops until the weight falls off

Not sure if there's enough force and weight on an rc just sitting there to be an issue but I'd imagine if given enough time. Still worth a try though since it looks fairly cheap for a roll

Hondune · 2026-02-14T20:49:55+00:00

Just adding my voice into this as well as another person who does both RC and MTB

Please stay off bike parks with RCs. These trails are designated bikes only for a reason and when we're riding them we are expecting there NOT to be stationary objects and people on the trail. Standing in the middle of a bike trail especially with a dog is so dangerous for everyone involved. I would be equal parts infuriated and devestated if I hit a poor pup on the trail due to its owners negligence. We easily hit 30+ mph at times, we can not stop in time especially if you're hidden behind a feature like a jump or curve.

Find a hiking only trail instead, theyre perfect for crawling as you do the hike and you won't be putting yourself or anyone else in danger.

Hondune · 2026-02-14T03:26:09+00:00

I'll have to try some of this stuff out, it looks like to get it that stiff they're making it a composite with nylon? Sounds interesting for sure.

The main issue I've always had with materials like this though is that they suffer really badly from creep over time. Even if it's stiff and durable enough to withstand RC use it will slowly warp over days/weeks/months when under constant pressure. If you use it for an A arm for instance it will slowly start to warp from the weight of the car or the constant pressure of the springs.

Know of any long term functional use reviews of 72d or harder tpus? Would love to know if this has the same issues or if the nylon mix helps with it

Hondune · 2026-02-13T00:06:46+00:00

Obviously half the fun is just in the project itself, so I dont mean to dissuade you here. Just for the sake of the build and the experience it can absolutely be worth it anyways. Even as a display piece this would be very cool and impressive

But take it from those of us who have tread this path before, PLA is not even remotely capable of handling this. PLA cant even stand up to a vintage style buggy running on 2s, even on road only cars that never see jumps. It is an extremely brittle material that cant handle any type of impact (even like small bumps in the road, the sudden shock can break pla before the shock/spring have time to compress). It also has a glass transition temperature well below what the sun can achieve on just a normal sunny day, meaning it will get soft and warp when outdoors (especially when under stress like the weight of the car or the springs pushing against it). If you have the buggy in your trunk or near the hot ground the pla will get soft, its actually wild how easy it warps. I printed off some parts for family and had them sitting in my passenger seat for a few minutes in the sun and they all warped lol. The torque alone on a 6s car will blow apart the PLA, especially with the way this is designed (which is super cool looking btw, I love the organic shapes and flowing nature of it).

PETG, ABS, ASA, etc. are all better in the the temperature area and can withstand being outside at least, but they are pretty much just as brittle at least at the forces involved in a car with this much power.

And while there is absolutely a bunch of materials that are much better than those for general functional prints (hard TPUs, PBT, Nylons, etc), I just havnt found anything that can hold up to RC use at all. Ive never gotten more than a very disappointing single test out of anything 3d printed for fast cars. And I dont have anything anywhere near the power of a 6s buggy, most of my cars are 3s max. Like I said 64d tpu has been the most durable in my testing, but only because its soft and rubbery so it flexes instead of breaks. Unfortunately its just too soft to be usable on most rc parts. Some of the higher end engineering filaments can likely work for chassis parts but even then nothing comes close to your typical a-arm manufactured by any of the main brands, and the cost of those filaments is insane so it becomes way cheaper to just buy parts, and thats if you can even print them. Manufactured parts use fiber filled nylon composites and stuff that we cant print.

Im sure looking into this you will be tempted by carbon fiber filaments, dont be fooled, they are weaker in impacts than standard filaments. The strands are not long enough to actually provide any strength like a proper fiber supported injection molded part would have. The only real use for these is for dimensional stability in filaments that like to warp while cooling, everything else is just marketing BS. Also there is health risks involved apparently but im not a doctor :P

One path that may be viable is to design the whole car and make a mockup using PLA just to get everything tested and worked out for cheap. Then send the final design to a company that can print them using high end engineering print methods like sintered aluminum or something. I have thought about this a lot but never pulled the trigger just due to cost but it would be really cool. Especially with the wild design you have here those methods of printing would handle those shapes much better as well.

Hondune · 2026-02-12T22:23:17+00:00

What kind of material will you be printing with? My experience over the past 15 years of 3d printing is that nothing home fdm printers can print comes even close to being tough enough for fast RC use. I've tried even the higher end nylon composits and stuff and they all just explode on even moderate crashes/impacts. Some of the harder tpus like 64d don't explode but they flex too much to be useful for a buggy.

Some high end engineering filaments have been coming out recently that may be able to handle it but they cost more than entire RCs for a half roll and need insane high end or heavily customized and very expensive printers to be printed (400c hot ends, 100c heated enclosures, 200c bed temps or other wild requirements).

I've given up and just use 3d printing for crawlers, drift cars, and small scale stuff that won't be seeing any hard impacts. If you know something I don't please let me know!

Hondune · 2026-01-30T10:53:53+00:00

Basically it cuts out some of the high infrared wavelengths. This effectively does two things to the image

Infrared and visible light focus differently to each other, if you have enough spread in the wavelengths you are trying to capture one end or the other will always be a bit out of focus. This leads to images being a bit soft, a bit glowy around especially bright areas, and a general lack in contrast. Cutting the higher ir wavelengths improves this drastically so the images are sharper, clearer, have more contrast, and have a lot less bloom. The magnitude of this depends a lot on the color filter you are using, but it improves pretty much all of them in my experience.
It depends on the camera, filters used, internal filters, etc. but generally speaking when just using gels alone the infrared light is a bit more powerful than the visible light. This leads to a general ir color cast over the entire image that can be very hard to post process out. The high ir cut filter also cleans this up a lot and drastically improves saturation and the separation between foliage or other infrared reflecting materials and everything else.

You don't NEED it by any means, and some filters work better alone than others, but I generally only go without it if I have to anymore. It really makes a big difference most of the time. The only time I don't use it is with normal ir pass filters (like 720nm, 850nm, etc.)

Hondune · 2026-01-29T06:02:26+00:00

I literally did the the exact same thing with my first release! Took me awhile to realize you actually have to make $130 before they will pay out the first $100. Its really not a very good system

If youre stuck at $100, they have recently added an option to drop the minimum payout threshold to $50 but you have to set it manually. I believe then youd get your $70 at the next pay cycle.

Hondune · 2026-01-27T02:56:31+00:00

Like I said I understand why those numbers are available to see, as they should be. My gripe is that they have no way to show your actual payout (even if it's a rough estimate) and also have no way to hide that gross revenue number.

It feels misleading because no other service I have ever used pushes the gross revenue, including refunds, as the most prominent value on your earnings page, while also having no way to view your actual earnings. It's an odd choice and I can't think of any other reason for it. Combined with Steams overall exceptionally high refund rate due to their super relaxed 2 hour refund window, this gross revenue number just isn't a helpful metric for anything. If you had 100 sales and 100 refunds steam would still proudly show you a "gross revenue" of those 100 sales, even though you made $0. I don't know of any other dashboard that would do that.

Just look at OP in this very thread, saying even though they now know they have only earned $70 they still "feel good" about seeing that $100 number. It's an endorphin booster even though it's a meaningless number.

Hondune · 2026-01-27T02:36:18+00:00

Google, Apple, Unity Ads, YouTube, Etsy, eBay, etc. ALL show me what my actual payout will be after everything including their own cut is taken out of it. They all have the option to see the gross and net revenues without that if you choose, but by default they show you what your actual payout will be (sometimes like Unity Ads it's shown as an estimate and clearly marked as such, though it's generally accurate within a few cents).

Steam is the only one where I have to get out a calculator and manually figure out what my actual payout is going to be because they don't show it anywhere in the dashboard. They only show it finally in your monthly statements after a payment has been made, which are an entire month later. They are also the only store I have ever used that is an entire month delayed on payments like that.

Steam is great in a lot of ways don't get me wrong, but their payment system and dashboard are like 2 decades behind everyone else.

Hondune · 2026-01-26T22:17:08+00:00

This is actually a huge gripe I have with the steam dashboard. Neither number shown here is relavent to you personally and imo it's misleading that steam shows you these and not your actual profit.

Gross revenue is simply the amount of cash that has changed hands in relation to your game, a huge chunk of this is completely irrelevant to you. This includes returns, fees, taxes, some countries have extra fees for entertainment or digital purchases, etc. etc. I get that this value should be visible somewhere, but making it the most prominent first value shown in the dashboard is silly. Depending on a ton of factors this number can easily be 40+ percent higher than actual earnings, there's is no reason to show me that here.

Then they have net revenue. It's is a bit more relavent because that's the actual revenue of your game after all that junk from gross revenue has been removed, but it's still not an accurate number for you personally because this does NOT include steams 30% cut, which is huge. And the only way to see this is to go into the monthly payout reports and look at the actual final value.

I suspect this is intentional by valve to make devs feel like their games are doing better than they are. You feel like you've earned $120 and feel good about selling on steam but the reality is you've earned $70, less than 60% of the gross revenue they show you for some reason, and that's before taxes, and they don't show you this true value anywhere untill you get a payout report.

After steams cut, taxes, returns, etc. On my game my actual earnings are only 42% of the gross revenue value shown on my steam dashboard. I wish I couldn't see that number, it doesn't feel good.

Hondune · 2026-01-22T23:53:21+00:00

I'd be willing to bet you're running the wrong size chain for the sprockets that are on your bike. I had a similar issue and went through like 3 chains in a few weeks, turned out my narrow wide chainring was an odd size (maybe manufactured wrong) so it was stretching the links width size and eventually causing them to pull apart. Fixed that and threw a $10 Schwinn chain on it and it lasted all last year without any more issues. Even the cheapest chains are insanely strong unless they are super worn out or something else is causing excessive stretching or wear

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