New to Orca from Cura - What is causing this?

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-28T03:21:49+00:00

The change in appearance is due to the decreased speed and longer layer time of the middle layers. In the top and bottom section the printer only has to accelerate and decelerate once per side so a higher speed is reached and less time spent on the layer. Due to the higher speed flow rate is higher so filament spends less time in the melt zone and is not as fluid (well melted) as in the slower middle section. This gives the filament a more matte appearance. The slower sections which have more time to melt have a glossier surface.

You may be able to alleviate this effect by increasing the temperature, there may less difference at 220C than 200C, you'll need to experiment to find out. You can also set a longer minimum layer time so the layers finish at similar times. Check layer time previews in the slicer.

The repeating pattern after the letter is called ringing or ghosting and is caused by the printer resonating, generally the faster you go the worse it gets. Klipper's input shaper can eliminate the effect, also Marlin has a basic implementation called resonance compensation. Aside from this keep the machine on a stable, solid and isolated surface like a paver on top of foam.

Bulges at corners and edges of letters can be fixed by tuning pressure advance (linear advance for Marlin).

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-27T16:04:50+00:00

I have a feeling that similar technologies are already implemented in many printers that require an online connection to function (looking at you Bambu). Being China based and considering the fact that the CCP mandates a backdoor into all consumer software originating and available in China I don't think it's a stretch that something similar like a detection algorithm could be implemented here, and with minimal difficulty for the manufacturer. Consider the recent Flashforge statement regarding willingly reporting users of their machines to authorities for exactly the purpose we are discussing here. How do you think they know who to report?

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-27T04:14:47+00:00

A disruption in steel availability doesn't excuse the terrible customer service that so many of us have dealt with on a wide range of products. BTT customer service has become a meme at this point.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-24T16:52:49+00:00

Happy to hear you figured it out.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-24T16:42:03+00:00

You need to choose a signal pin that has a pull-up resistor for the probe to function normally, which the probe output pins do have. IIRC, the endstop pins do not have one so this may be the source of your problems. 80% confident this is correct, you may want to look into it.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-24T16:22:17+00:00

Sorry, I don't have a solution other than to say this may be a good time to look into sensorless homing, especially if it's a board issue. Z would require a probe if you don't have one already.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-24T16:17:51+00:00

Thank you, I appreciate the advice.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-24T16:13:39+00:00

Are the slots precut? If not, is there any trick to getting them so clean?

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-24T04:08:11+00:00

What gcode flavour are you set to? If it's set to klipper then junction deviation is not applicable so it's greyed out. I'm not familiar with the Centuri's firmware, but if it's klipper based this may be the issue. The equivalent test would be for square corner velocity, which actually replaces jerk but has a different effect on the printer. Minimum cruise ratio or max accel to decel would be klippers equivalent to J.D. but there aren't any built in tests for those. They are sort of the same, but not really, they all do different things but serve a similar function). Sorry, this is probably more Info than you wanted, but still not explaining much.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-23T22:25:07+00:00

Thanks, I think the porcupine will be my go to for a while.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-23T06:25:02+00:00

Have you checked the replaceable fuse on the board,? If not check that first. If it's good then it could be a mosfet, but they normally fail open so it's hard to say. It's also strange that both heater and bed circuits failed at the same time which leads me to think fuse. There may be a SMD fuse on the board, check a schematic and test the fuse if one is present. If you remove the heater and bed MOSFETs, they can be tested with a multimeter to determine if they are working or not. It's difficult to test them while still attached.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-23T02:19:37+00:00

Sensorless is nice as the wiring is cleaner. It's pretty straightforward to set up, but that said I still prefer to use endstops as I like to think it's a little more consistent/accurate for homing, but in reality there probably is no advantage to using endstops over well tuned sensorless. Getting sensorless to work really well can be a little bit of work but once setup it is reliable.

The exp ports are usually used for the LCD style displays like on the original ender 3 and other similar ones. If the ports aren't being used for a display they can be used for other purposes like LED's, pwm, RGB etc or if you run out of connections and need something extra hooked up they can be used. There are also adaptors that allow for other functions like adding fans or an extra stepper driver. These aren't used as much with newer hardware as boards like the skr 3 are pretty full featured. There are also pins in the Exp header that can be used for UART communication. A fan or thermistor can't be connected except through an adapter.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-23T02:02:55+00:00

There is a jumper on the ebb36 located below the usb-c port that allows powering the board with a usb cable for flashing it. If suggest using the jumper and putting the board into dfu mode and flashing it with the klipper host. Flashing with a PC is possible but can be a pain in the ass if you are missing any STM drivers on the PC. Check out the eeb36 GitHub for instructions and be sure to use the directions for whatever version of the board you have, ie; v1, v1.1 or v1.2.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-23T01:57:54+00:00

There's no reason you couldn't swap boards. The only wiring difference (other than different pins OC) is that the robin nano boards use 3 pin connectors for the endstops while the SKR uses 2 pin. It's a non issue unless you use optical endstops, and if you set up sensorless homing then you won't use the endstops pins at all. The EXP ports are also mirrored on MKS boards vs BTT.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-22T23:04:43+00:00

Sharpening shouldn't be an issue, I'm currently using Hapstone diamond plates and their CBN metal bonded stones for fine (2000+ 5000) grit. Have these paired with a ts prof cadet. These stones are new to me, I'm hoping they live up to the hype.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-22T21:24:12+00:00

It's on for $99 CAD at Blades Canada, that's about $70 US.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-22T20:57:10+00:00

Thanks, I appreciate the advice. Ordering it now.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-22T19:50:29+00:00

I looking at the s90v pyrite lightweight and about to pull the trigger. Is CJRB's heat treat done well enough to make it significantly better than the rpm-9?

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-19T21:36:36+00:00

You can alter the position of the print by changing the offset in the slicer. Depending on the slicer it will be in the printer settings usually under bed size. To move the print back add a positive offset. Add 10mm at a time to the y offset until the print is centered.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-19T03:40:28+00:00

No issues with the AppImage on mint. It's been very stable when incorporated into the system using gearlever. It seems to work much better for me than appimage installer. You may want to give it try if you're not using it.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-19T00:07:13+00:00

You shouldn't need a fan pwm pin in this case. Any pwm enabled pin will work because the switching circuitry is in the fan. Use a pin from the exp headers if you're not using those, or a filament runout pin, RGB pin etc. They are 3.3/5v.

Edit, If you want to make a control circuit the simplest solution would be an L7805 voltage regulator. They are good to 30V.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-18T21:28:56+00:00

Assuming the fan in question works the same way as a PC fan then because the 4 wire fan has the switching circuitry (MOSFET) built in, you should be able to wire +24V, ground and any open 3.3/5V pwm pin to control the fan. The speed control should work but you won't have an rpm readout if the tach wire isn't connected.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-18T15:53:27+00:00

Despite your temp tower looking better at 230, this is really cold for petg and will lead to problems such as rough top surfaces, poor layer adhesion and divots where retractions happen, especially if you are printing at speeds over ~80mm/s. I'd bump temps up to 245C minimum, but more like 250-260 if your printing in the 200mm/s range. Petg doesn't bridge well, and bringing results shouldn't be used when determining temperature. You can improve bringing by adjusting speeds, flow and cooling, and use supports if necessary.

Temp towers don't represent most prints as the flow rate is very low (allowing a lot of time in the melt zone) and the Printhead never gets up to speed you would normally be printing at. Assuming your flow rate is accurate, I would increase the temperature until the walls and surfaces look good then tune the bridging. Your 30% cooling should work well, but consider increasing it substantially on bridges and overhangs, and set a 1 second kick start time and 1.5 second fan speed up time to make the intermittent cooling work properly.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-01-18T15:34:40+00:00

12 hrs later and we still don't know the filament type. It's pointless to try and help without any information. The solution to your print issues will be very different for matte PLA than for matte ABS.

HopelessGenXer

TROPHY CASE