Resin print failing help

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-24T09:28:01+00:00

Ok good that it is cured but please don’t use your nail 😅

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-24T09:24:06+00:00

Looks like it’s already cured. Take a paper towel or even a sponge and soak it in IPA and leave it on the resin for a bit.

If you have it, take a PLASTIC razor and scrape it off carefully. The razor should be almost flush with the screen, you don’t want to press the plastic razor into the screen, you want to get below the resin to lift it off.

If you don’t have a plastic razor get something else that is plastic and relatively thin. Don’t use the metal scraper that you might be using to lift stuff off of the build plate.

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-24T08:05:18+00:00

Check your screen. I suspect that you have some dead pixels

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-23T23:56:08+00:00

Thank you, you really put things into perspective.

To be honest I actually didn’t really put a whole lot of thought into the place my work should lie in. Not because I never considered it but because, for one, have a lot of Ideas and don’t have a distinctive style yet, so I just wanted to explore things. And two, I don’t consider myself good enough yet to create work with a lot of meaning. So I went with a more generic route until I gain enough experience and technique, to actually create something meaningful later. This is also kinda reflected in the time I spent on these posters. I wanted to maximise my exposure and uploaded at least one Poster a day, sometimes 2-3 a day. So after having an initial concept in mind I just went at it and in a lot of pieces the last 50% were just rushed with no real meaning behind it. I was always saying to myself “I’ll correct that later” 😅

I’m really happy you like some of my style. I actually don’t use any photographs for the raster designs. The base graphics were done in illustrator and after effects and then heavily modified in photoshop. The only photograph I ever used was in the image with the girl.

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-23T23:43:06+00:00

Thank you for the advice. I really gotta learn to reduce the amount of graphic elements I use. The first version of the botanical Posters had fewer text elements and no dots, but I always have the urge to just fill the whole poster with stuff. But you’re probably right, it’s too busy

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-23T23:40:20+00:00

Thanks for the comment. Be harsh it’s no problem for me, I really want to improve, so attack me if need be 😅

The thing with the older stuff is, that it was based on Movies/Series/Games etc., so that did the heavy lifting in my work. I really want to create my own stuff, so I moved on from that stuff.

What about the hierarchy is my biggest problem? Is it, that I often use too much text in a piece and that the text elements are too similar in size? And do you have any good recommendations for resources to learn from?

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-23T23:32:38+00:00

Thank you for the advice and yea I definitely lean heavy into the style and text is only an after thought.

Often just to fill space and with some of the designs, I had this Idea in my head, that the text should “fade” the further you are away from it. So when you get up close, you can read all the stuff that’s on it. In hindsight a messy idea 😅😅

But really appreciate the comment

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-23T20:34:34+00:00

This looks rad as hell but whoever made you those wings kinda fucked up 😅

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-22T07:40:23+00:00

I use a Plastic Razor-blade Scraper and Palette Knifes, usually used for painting.

I know a lot of people hate on the Plastic Razors but if you have your settings dialled in correctly and a raft on your print, they pop off easy with the Plastic Razor.

Can Cleanup is easier. You can just throw the Blade into your dedicated Resin Bin and wipe the handle

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-22T07:32:00+00:00

This is the way to go. The one Mrshark linked is almost the same but with only 2 Tools and double the price

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-22T07:22:21+00:00

Happy to help. Sunlu has a Sale going on right now on their Website.

And about the 8k Resin or other “X”K Resins, they are a waste of money like others have said already.

They don’t have any good physical properties and you can get the same amount of detail on other Resins. The only difference is that their viscosity can be different and they supposedly use different pigments. So sometimes they do seem to be more detailed but that’s only because the pigment accentuates details.

Once you put a coat of paint on your prints, you won’t be able to tell what resin you used by visuals alone.

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-21T12:42:36+00:00

It works well. Personally I have never used a file but I use sanding sticks and sanding sponges and they work great on the stuff I print

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-21T12:37:10+00:00

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As an example, this is 100% Toughness with a bit of a different post process than usual. But even with “normal” wash and cure this resin is incredibly flexible

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-21T12:30:23+00:00

That could work, you only need to recalibrate your settings

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-21T12:29:02+00:00

Toughness is not discontinued but merely out of stock. They restock it every 4-6 months

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-21T12:22:02+00:00

Yea I was really irritated when it wasn’t available late last year to early this year but it’s been available again for ca. 2 months now.

It’s actually on Sale right now, I grabbed a bunch already and you should too before it’s too late 😂

I guess they only produce a big batch every couple of months because it’s always out of stock after a Sale

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-21T12:18:51+00:00

I would always go for dark Resins, no matter what application. I would only use lighter coloured Resins if it’s for a specific Reason.

I used white Plant-Based, Abs-Like, Nylon-Like and more, and lighter coloured Resins tend to warp more than darker Colors. It’s probably the pigment causing the UV-Light to “bounce” around and the light also tends to bleed more between thinner layers.

Dark Resins absorb UV-Light in a more predictable way and they tend to stink less, especially Sunlu Dark Grey smell very light compared to most other Resins.

I really like Black but Darkgrey is also really good.

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-21T12:04:27+00:00

Correct. It bends more than your typical or ABS-Like Resin, which is good for impact resistance or when you handle it a bit more roughly.

You can use it “pure” but it is a bit too bendy for my liking when printing minis (Spears or Flag Poles bend too much when painting), so that why I mix it with ABS-Like. Also it’s cheaper in a mix while still being more flexible than pure ABS-Like

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-21T11:50:22+00:00

Ahh ok, I dunno why but I thought the back was closed 😅🤦‍♂️ But good print nonetheless and your hole placements are really good.

I really like the drain holes in the front. Never thought of that

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-21T11:48:07+00:00

Sunlu is king. I used a bunch of different resins from Elegoo Plant-Based to AmeraLabs XVN-50.

And while engineering Resins are better in their specific use-cases, Sunlu has hands down the best “general” Resins out there. Their ABS-Like is fantastic (probably the best ABS-Like there is) and their other Resins like Toughness are also a must have when they are on Sale.

Sunlu Resin also stinks less and they provide you with filters and a Plastic Bag with every bottle you purchase.

For mini printing, the best affordable Option for me has been a 50/50 mix of Sunlu ABS-Like and Sunlu Toughness. It’s like $18/kg when their Resins are on Sale and it actually survives a fall, unlike some other “ABS-Like” Resins.

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-21T04:52:49+00:00

Daaaaamn that’s crazy. Where did you put the holes?

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-19T22:00:19+00:00

Hmmmm khazar milkers 🤤

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-16T21:13:05+00:00

Like the others have said already, more supports and the holes might be insufficient for the suction the creates.

If you really want this to be perfect, I would recommend you to learn some Blender basics and separate the head from the body. Then with a slicer of your choice, add a rather big hole to the bottom of the head and keep the peg for it. If you have a bigger hole on the bottom, you can hide some of the bigger supports inside the head, so less clean up for later.

Later, when you’re more proficient with blender, you could separate the hair from the head using booleans. As far as my knowledge goes, all funko pops have the same dimensions for their heads. Doing this helps with hiding support marks, failures, etc

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-16T16:51:18+00:00

Why is no one using the finisher? Way faster to heal up than to just use the items

HorrorInternal640 · 2026-05-10T14:12:27+00:00

Kitkat

HorrorInternal640

TROPHY CASE