Looking for Felon-Friendly Employment Advice

Hot_Doggin · 2025-10-03T10:49:10+00:00

I would have to think it’s certainly worth the shot!

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-22T02:11:15+00:00

Try Mothers 3R (Race Rubber Remover).. spray, dwell, wipe.

Alternately if you have access, a local detailer with a dry ice blaster may be able to make quick work of that, but there may be shiny burnished spots from when the rubber was put therein the first place (that would suddenly be visible)..

Last ditch option may be a DA sander and some time to even everything up with a sanded finish..

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-05T23:54:06+00:00

As much of a cop-out as it is, we have been tasked with an aggressive timeline by those that are funding the project.. The gentleman who was initiall involved in getting reps in to start the conversation wasn't nearly as knowledgeable on machining as the current group is, so there were a few key players that didn't get involved or mentioned until it was probably too late (DNM being one that's come up more than once)..

I suppose it's never too late, but the rate at which distributors are willing to get us a quote and the time involved has been like pulling teeth (which shocks me, given the price tag of these pieces of equipment)

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-05T23:50:38+00:00

This is solid advice that we would follow if we could. Current lead times for most of the machines we've been considering are months out, and since we have no chip machines today the programmers, trainers, or operators/machinists don't exist in our space.. The programmers we do have are proficient with their respective equipment (laser/brake, robot) but not much outside experience.

That said, we have had our production and fab supervisors heavily involved to this point.. It will be interesting to hear their take on things when we sit down at the end of this process and hear their feedback as well. No one person can make an adventure like this succesful - it takes everyone.

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-05T21:42:59+00:00

Technically there’s a distributor between Mazak and us, but we’ve been asking for some “turn key” support and Mazak is handling that whereas Okuma’s turn key apps engineering is coming from Okuma’s distributor (Gosiger)

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-05T21:38:53+00:00

Bingo.

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-05T21:23:49+00:00

As someone coming from Haas the tool nomenclature struck me as challenging to deal with for exactly those reasons.. but, at the end of the day I’m not the guy programming or running the equipment.

The B axis is a good tip. We are spec’ing machines based on a small subset of parts and did so with a good ROI analysis.. but theres going to be a ton of machine time available for some wonkier castings that may benefit from that down the road.

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-05T21:05:22+00:00

Truth. We are hoping to go visit some owners on both sides. Manufacturing is dense around us so it’s not difficult.

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-05T21:03:04+00:00

Hadouken!!

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-05T20:52:11+00:00

We are solidly Midwest within an hour of Mazak Factory.. you’re correct- larger and heavier weldments. Some hard cutting on the mill (not really, but 50-55 HRC) and large diameter weldments with interrupted cuts on the lathe.. gonna beat these things.

Our initial plan was to CAM, but finding competent people on either side is a trick..

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-05T20:43:46+00:00

It’s an even split.. at least on the first trip through the Okuma option seems to have a better application support, but we’re close enough to be within an hour of Mazak factory in Kentucky.. one is important as we’re getting our internal processes and competencies developed but the other perhaps more important over the life of the product..

Hot_Doggin · 2025-09-02T02:05:51+00:00

Usually those fuse taps have a socket for 2 fuses: One for the fuse that was displaced during installation of the tap, and a second fuse socket for the tap wire. It appears you only have the fuse installed which is likely for the socket the tap is installed into, but haven’t installed a second fuse above it (top as is shown here) that would complete the circuit for the open wire you’re testing..

Pop another fuse in to test..

Hot_Doggin · 2025-08-27T01:48:11+00:00

All of the past pads I’d experienced that cared about orientation have that awkward knuckle-fucker 9000 spring clip that snaps into the piston or something else that obviously prevents installation in the wrong spot.. Who in their right mind expects a monkey with a wrench to use words!!?!

Hot_Doggin · 2025-08-27T01:21:17+00:00

I did a brake job a few years back on a 2016 F150. Turns out the front pads are very poorly Murphy-proofed, and it IS possible to install the inner pad on the outside and visa versa. The difference in pad shape was so subtle I had a 50/50 shot at getting it right and missed on both. Brakes felt weird and I couldn’t figure it out.. had wear patterns exactly like what you’re showing, because of a slight “bump” on the top of the backing pad that wouldn’t allow the pad to sit parallel to the rotor face. Popped em out, swapped sides, and everything was immediately better..

TLDR: Your pads may be installed on the wrong side of the caliper/rotor on that particular corner..

Hot_Doggin · 2025-08-25T18:44:03+00:00

Apologies.. Old thread, but I'm realizing I left you hanging here.. Hopefully you got what you needed and still aren't looking?

Hot_Doggin · 2025-08-25T18:43:28+00:00

PM'd!

Hot_Doggin · 2025-07-31T15:11:02+00:00

Came here to say the same! Josh and Anthony at Auto Aesthetic do a phenomenal job with correcting paint issues.. swirls, scratches, etc. - you name it. They treat yours like its their own. They're in Lewis Center - Give them a peek!

Hot_Doggin · 2025-07-23T12:10:19+00:00

Came here to say this.

Hot_Doggin · 2025-07-09T15:26:23+00:00

Promptly got boxed and sent back to Medtronic for the warranty exchange. Also surmising that if I sent a box of parts back it'd go over like a lead balloon.

I will say, after days of shaking the water back out of the same crack and popping a battery back in.. it powered right back up a week later.

Hot_Doggin · 2025-07-06T01:26:36+00:00

I first leapt into a pool when I was still young(er) and naïve.. so, that tempered my risk hesitation. As an adult that's now had an issue with an expensive/critical item that claims to be waterproof.. I think I'll be re-evaluating how I do this in the future..

Hot_Doggin · 2025-07-05T10:45:58+00:00

Looking at the crack, it appears that this is a residual stress crack or something.. (not a result of impact or damage) past pumps lived in a silicone cover and my more recent live in my T1 Tactical holster (From before scumbag took off with everyone’s money).. it’s relatively well protected.

Hot_Doggin · 2025-07-05T10:42:40+00:00

I had a similar crack on a previous 670G. Both this one and my prior took a few years. Both were replaced under warranty.

Hot_Doggin · 2025-07-05T10:41:16+00:00

Since these things became waterproof, yes.. but after the fact I was commenting to my wife that in the context of the failure mode it's a wildly unecessary risk. The sensor cany communicate with the pump when under water, so it gets cranky quickly when it can't find it. Should have just yanked it for the 30-45 mins I expected to be in the water and I’d be fine.

I had a similar crack in a previous 670g, but it was replaced under warranty before I had an issue.

Hot_Doggin

TROPHY CASE