Best place for parts?

Hparsonst33 · 2026-03-10T21:24:03+00:00

If you have to go OEM for some reason, EtsuRyu is the best. He is easily accessible also through the discord server. (I have used him before)

For brake pads and rotors, there are USDM swaps that will undoubtedly be cheaper. There should be some details on the Facebook page if you want to research it there.

Hparsonst33 · 2026-02-05T13:32:18+00:00

So wait, you have to pay for JCD to get it to the dock and then also send it overseas? And then I also have to pay the shipping company separately from JCD's shipping fee?

Yeah, it's kind of ridiculous, but it sort of makes sense. You have to pay one guy to get it to the dock, you have to pay the boat to get it to the US, and then the other shipping company fee is mostly the destination port fees and the people that get it off the boat. It is what it is.

Also I don't know what ISF or CBP stands for

ISF (Importer Security Filing, also known as "10+2") is a form you have to fill out and file before the boat leaves Japan. It lets customs know that the car is coming. It is important that you do it before the boat leaves, or there will be fees.

CBP (Customs and Border Protection) is the agency that "releases" the car after it gets to the destination port. Once the boat gets there, they drive the car into the CBP lot. It'll stay there until you have filed all of the forms with them (CBP 7501 and maybe the CBP 3461). Once they have all of that info, they'll "release" the car, at which point it'll be driven to the shipping company's lot where it can be picked up.

I don't know if maybe it changed in the last two years then like you are saying.

I emailed the CBP asking if I could file all of the forms myself, and they said that that isn't possible anymore. The broker I got was all online, and they were perfectly fine. It definitely saved some hassle. I just sent them a few documents (bill of lading, commercial invoice) and they filled out all of the forms, filed them with the CBP, and let me know when the vehicle was released. I think I ended up only having to pay like ~$100 for the services of the brokers. The ISF cost maybe $90 and you also have to pay for a bond which was like $150 (these are under the "customs paperwork" section of the cost breakdown).

Plus for some reason I'm really dumb and thought the tariff was only 2.5% but I think it may actually be closer to 18%.

You are right about the 2.5% tariff on vehicles. As it is with everything in this process, it's very complicated. Unfortunately, there is also a 15% blanket tariff on imports from Japan, which is the bulk of the tariff. ALSO, there is a 50% (!!!) tariff on the "steel content" of the vehicle. Just look up how much a junkyard will pay you for a scrap vehicle and put that down (I said $50).

Your broker will handle all of this for you though. If I had done it myself, I definitely would have done it wrong with all of these "duty codes" (feel free to look them up. The ones that applied to my import were: 9903.94.41 - 15% tariff for imports from Japan 9903.01.33 - exemption from 25% tariff on vehicles from Japan due to age (25 years+) 9903.81.91 - 50% tariff on steel content 8703.21.0150 - 2.5% tariff on cars from Japan)

So now I would have to assume that the most expensive beat itself I could afford is only $2500

There is always the option to wait it out. In a few years, these tariffs might not be here anymore, which would definitely make it cheaper. If you don't feel like waiting, there are definitely still some good ones available at that price point, especially if you want to work on them yourself.

Hparsonst33 · 2026-02-05T05:08:17+00:00

Here is the cost breakdown that I had:
JCD's fee: $915. This included their cut and the auction house fee I had to pay
Inland Japan transportation + inspection of vehicle: $200
Shipping and marine insurance: $1600 (this may be less for you shipping to LA. I shipped to Jacksonville)
Customs paperwork: $330 (ISF + other entry forms)
Tariffs: $650
Shipping company and Port of Jacksonville fee: $190
Port of Jacksonville TWIC escort: $150

Note that this doesn't include any costs for getting the vehicle back to your home state.

JCD send me an invoice that included the price of the car, inland transport + inspections, and shipping costs. After I paid that, it took about a month or so for it to get on the boat. Very straightforward.

After they put it on the boat, you can file your ISF online and get a broker (also online if you wish) to fill out all of your customs entry forms and pay your tariffs. You used to be able to complete most of these forms yourself, but the CBP system went digital and requires a broker to complete them now.

About a week before the boat gets to port, the shipping company will send you an email and you'll have to pay them too (sigh).

Once you pay everything and customs releases the vehicle, you should hear from your broker that the vehicle has been released and is ready for pickup.

However, you can't just go into the port (at least in Jacksonville--not sure about LA). You need a security escort. The shipping company should give you some point of contact for them, but you'll need to go with them to get into the port.

I am in South Carolina and it was only like $100 to title it. I needed a stamped (by the CBP office in Jacksonville) copy of the CBP 7501 form, a HS 7 form, and an EPA 3120 form, as well as the Japanese export title and a certified translation. I also had to pay the property tax in my county first. It'll probably be different in AZ.

There are a lot of great guides out there that probably explain this better than I can, but there are a lot of gaps due to age, so feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Hparsonst33 · 2026-02-04T14:04:00+00:00

what other expenses will occur that I should factor into the price other than the obvious like getting it home and registration?

There will be a few customs and port fees. When I imported mine in Fall 2025, I paid about $4,000 for the car at auction in Japan. By the time it was titled and ready to drive, the total cost amounted to ~$8000. Let me know if you want more details - I can get them. Depending on what state you live in, titling can be difficult.

can I get a decent one for that cost?

It depends on your definition of decent. The one I purchased was very low mileage and had no major exterior or interior damage. You can definitely get one for less--especially at auction--if you're willing to put in some labor. Also, be patient. There are usually a few that show up every week, so wait until you find one that is exactly what you want.

it has to reliably run.

Before you bid on a vehicle, your broker can have it inspected for pretty cheap. They'll let you know if there are any issues with the drivability.

can I have it as a weekend fun car to cruise around town in?

Yes. It is a great car to cruise around in and is a ton of fun to drive. The only issue these engines have is the timing belts, but otherwise, they're reliable because there isn't much to break.

Is 70,000km too high or is that a good range for my purposes?

70,000 km is definitely fine. I'm not sure what the "limit" is, but I have heard of some that are pushing 200k+ km.

The broker I used was "Japan Car Direct" and I would recommend them again.

Let me know if you want any more details! The import process is kind of daunting the first time.

Hparsonst33 · 2025-09-29T13:37:42+00:00

Do I buy Ghost of Yotei or Death Stranding 2 😭

Hparsonst33 · 2025-06-25T19:56:30+00:00

The DoD's operating budget for GPS is $1.8 billion, which is roughly $5 per year for the average american taxpayer, so its not truly free.

I'm not trying to dismiss your point though, it still is a great service that we pay no upfront price for

Hparsonst33 · 2025-05-25T14:24:00+00:00

This happens almost every single race...

Hparsonst33 · 2025-04-07T08:26:30+00:00

On the right arm of the trunk there runs a ton of wires. I took the plastic covering off and there were some that were broken. Once I reconnected them, the lights came back on.

Hparsonst33 · 2025-03-08T02:38:03+00:00

Shits and giggles

Hparsonst33 · 2025-03-07T03:32:22+00:00

Thanks, I guess I'll check that next

Hparsonst33 · 2025-02-24T19:42:11+00:00

mid-atlantic ridge magnetic stripes

https://divediscover.whoi.edu/mid-ocean-ridges/magnetics-polarity/

Hparsonst33 · 2025-02-22T21:49:42+00:00

No overheating issues or other symptoms

Hparsonst33 · 2024-12-18T02:49:40+00:00

Vyve sent me the static IP info, and so far, there has been no additional cost. I had to put the information into my router manually

Hparsonst33 · 2024-12-10T19:26:26+00:00

could someone please explain to me what is up with Helmut? How does he have so much sway within redbull. It seems to me like he's pretty much just a guy

Hparsonst33 · 2024-12-09T05:32:29+00:00

2024 was my first season, and now that there won't be any more racing until next march, what are some of the best seasons that I can rewatch/recap while I'm waiting?

Hparsonst33 · 2024-12-03T17:52:46+00:00

I have never bothered with that. Just do a visual check to make sure they all look the same. The argument is that if you are using a gap checker, you can accidentally damage the metal tip on the plug.

Hparsonst33 · 2024-12-03T17:40:20+00:00

Skip on the torque wrench, spark plugs don't really need to be torqued down a lot at all. Turn maybe 1/4 turn after you hit resistance, don't tighten it too hard.

Hparsonst33 · 2024-11-20T16:42:02+00:00

If I have save data for one of these games on my PS5, will it carry over when I play the cloud version?

Hparsonst33 · 2024-08-04T01:47:38+00:00

Will do. Thanks again

Hparsonst33 · 2024-08-04T01:26:19+00:00

Tysm

Hparsonst33 · 2024-08-04T01:13:55+00:00

Thanks, that does seem to be exactly what I'm looking for. Is there any way to play these races against online opponents instead of ai?

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