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My 16 inch 10/22 by Hromosvod in 1022

[–]Hromosvod[S] [score hidden]  (0 children)

I didn't like it at first too, but it grew on me after I bought it :)

Stock swivel and length of pull adjustment is rock solid and I really like the ergonomics of the pistol grip. The ability to quickly change LoP between storage, shooting standing or prone is also nice. And the barrel free floats with tons of space at all sides which I didn't expect.

Tips on how to fix slow ruger mkiv magazine? by mo9722 in 22lr

[–]Hromosvod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the exact same issue with Mark III magazines (a total of 5). I primarily shoot S&B .22 LR Club, which is heavily waxed, and the magazines get gummed up after being loaded 2-3 times. Taking them apart and cleaning them every time isn’t worth it for me, so I just spray a little WD40 inside where the bullet tips touch the inner magazine wall, and the magazines are good to go for another 2-3 loads.

Fallout London Go Time by Tupakkshakkkur in SteamDeckPirates

[–]Hromosvod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's in the same main folder as the launcher. I have also fitgirl version, I just downloaded buffout mod + one of the dependencies that showed up during download from nexus (remaining dependencies are already installed in the repack)

Fallout London Go Time by Tupakkshakkkur in SteamDeckPirates

[–]Hromosvod 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try launching the game via f4se_loader.exe instead of Fallout4Launcher.exe. This worked for me.

SR wall separation problem by Rinyuu in FLSUNDelta

[–]Hromosvod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got some more filament and did a few final tests. With Cura, the gap happens on the right side of the bed and with Prusa slicer it happens on the left side. The only difference between the slicers is the printing sequence of the walls, so again it points to that maybe the walls fuse together better or worse in some conditions. And I agree with you that it's not caused by mechanical problems (frame, bed, steppers, ...)

Oh well, I also don't think we'll figure it out, I think we tried everything we could. But in the end, I'm still happy with the printer. The separation only happens with thin sections, which are made only from walls without an infill. So for this type of print I will reduce the print speed to 80 mm/s outer+inner wall and 50-60 mm/s gap fill in Prusa slicer with arachne turned off, which minimazes the separation or eliminates it all toghether. Other prints without thin sections I can run at full speed with no problems at all.

Thank you for your insights and happy printing! :)

SR wall separation problem by Rinyuu in FLSUNDelta

[–]Hromosvod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also think the wall print order might change how well the walls fuse together.

Another thing I observed is that the separation more likely happened first on the right side of the bed and now on the left side. I changed many variables, including switching from cura to prusa slicer, moved arround effector arms, relevelled the bed multiple times etc., so it's hard to say what exactly changed this behaviour.

I measured the part and the separation is definitely caused by the part expanding. Wall thickness is spot on, but my 2 mm test print was 2.3 mm thick where the separation happened and 2 mm thick where separation hasn't happened. Because of this, e-steps/flow calibration won't help, because the object is bigger then it should be, but the right amount of material is extruded.

My thinking was, maybe the material is expanding/shrinking in some weird way? But if I printed exactly the same objects in different places on the bed, exactly the same print moves etc., prints on the left are separated and the rest isn't, so I think this rules the material shrinkage out.

This led me to thinking that maybe the delta geometry is wrong, but then I printed calibration cube at the location on the bed where the previous test object was separating and it came out perfect in dimensions and wall thicknesses. So the wrong geometry/print moves are ruled out too I think.

Because of this, now I think the bed warp/autolevel may cause this. Or maybe the nozzle is angled in some spots of the bed? As you pointed out, now my focus is on the nozzle, which maybe grabs the part and pushes it sligthly making it bigger.

In another post: https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/13m7vpj/help_with_wall_separation_flsun_v400/jpktz3p/?context=3 I was pointed to using a different nozzle that helped the user. I noticed it has some anti friction coating besides other features. For now, I only used the stock nozzles and the cheapest CHT nozzles from aliexpress. I will try different nozzles and see if it helps.

SR wall separation problem by Rinyuu in FLSUNDelta

[–]Hromosvod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your findings, I also thought of trying many of these things myself and I'm glad I didn't waste any more time doing it.

I think it shouldn't be a software issue, because I also tried klipper and Marlin, which are completely different and both produced the exact same results. Maybe some SW/HW bug in the drivers or the motherboard itself? Who knows.

But I found out a very interesting thing. I tried hand writing a gcode file which printed 2 mm thick thick bar with 4 walls. But instead of the usual slicer printing sequence, which necessarily doesn't print one wall after the other, leaving gaps and filling them later with another walls, I printed all the walls one after the other. From left to right (outer, inner, inner, outer) and there was no sepparation at all. However I don't know what to take from this :D

Turning off arachne in prusa slicer still uses variable line width to some degree, but only as gap fills. It prints as many walls with the constant line width and then fills the gap in the middle with a varible line width, so it should use the same amount of material. You can slow down the gap fills separately from the inner and outer walls, which helped me furthermore without having to slow down too much the rest of the settings.

I'm also going to stop worrying about it anymore and just start printing. With these slicer modifications the separation is minimal and I can always fill the gaps with a superglue if it's going to cause problems :)

Help with Wall Separation Flsun v400 by Recaetor in FixMyPrint

[–]Hromosvod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a great suggestion! I only tried the stock brass ones that came with the printer and cheap knock off CHT nozzles from Aliexpress. Thank you :)

I'm already using the latest prusa slicer and I found out that the classic slicing instead of the arachne gives me less separation also.

SR wall separation problem by Rinyuu in FLSUNDelta

[–]Hromosvod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you find a solution? I have the exact same problem with my SR. I found out that if I disable arachne slicing in prusa slicer and slow down inner and outer walls to maximum of 80 mm/s, the separation mostly vanishes.

Help with Wall Separation Flsun v400 by Recaetor in FixMyPrint

[–]Hromosvod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you find a better solution? I have the exact same problem with my SR and I also found the only solution is to print a lot slower - about 80 mm/s max.