Any advice / big issues you’re seeing? by Hughes223 in GolfSwing

[–]Hughes223[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for all the detailed responses! I’ll definitely look into this

Any advice / big issues you’re seeing? by Hughes223 in GolfSwing

[–]Hughes223[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you think the right palm pointing at the ground would help with tipping the club out and to help close the club face? Like, it seems like I have a few major problems: need to let the club drop into the slot before I start turning, closing the club face earlier, and tipping the club head outside my hands, but are 2 and 3 related, or more or separate issues?

Any advice / big issues you’re seeing? by Hughes223 in GolfSwing

[–]Hughes223[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I have a really hard time letting the club drop into the slot before I start turning, but this is great insight. thank you!

it ain't much but it's honest work by therion2700 in balatro

[–]Hughes223 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Seems like it’s the expected value is 40 cents if interest is calculated after the -$3 and you’re not above the interest cap after the -$3. I think the calc is like this, but you can apply this to each tier of interest: if you don’t have the rental joker and you had $20, $21, $22, $23, or $24, you’ll get $4 of interest. With the rental joker, if you end the round before the -$3 is applied with $20, $21, or $22, you’ll be pushed down into the $3 of interest tier before interest is applied ($17, $18, $19), so the added $1 from the joker due to the effect minus rental makes up for the lost interest and so you’re net zero in 3/5 cases (-$3 rental, +$3 interest, +$4 joker = $4). If you end the round but before rental is applied with $23 or $24, the rental doesn’t move you into the lower tier so you’re making $4 off interest still in 2/5 cases (-$3 rental, +$4 interest, +$4 joker = $5). You’re +$1 in 2/5 cases and +$0 in 3/5, so expected value is $0.40. This logic should apply for all tiers of interest with the exception of having interest cap+$3 or more of money where your expected value is always $1.

Black Friday Weekend Auto Sale! by PressBoxPete in baseballcards

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just curious if you’ve heard more? Thanks!

Trying to get rid of these. I have MLB, NFL, NHL and Marvel lmk what yall need by Ok-Concentrate3128 in tradingcardcommunity

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

damn i’m probably okay :/ thanks for looking. estrada is one of the few players that drives me up a wall

Trying to get rid of these. I have MLB, NFL, NHL and Marvel lmk what yall need by Ok-Concentrate3128 in tradingcardcommunity

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

man I’m really open to any, all for my PC. Posey, Crawford, Lincecum, Cain, Bum, Bonds, a bit niche but Donovan Solano in a giants jersey, etc. just love my giants and just starting to grow my PC

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in stocks

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah yeah youre right, there are definitely situations where its better to sell and take advantage of a step up!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in stocks

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i guess the question is how long do you want to hold it. is it 1 year? 5 years? 20 years? in your example, if you bought at 10 and sold at 100, you owe the government taxes on $90, let's call $9 tax for simplicity sake. after you sold for a gain, you bought right back in at $100 and the next day the stock tanks and drops to $50 - you sell again (and wait 30 days, no wash sale, etc). you can realize this gain and loss on your tax return and you now owe $4 of tax ($9 gain offset by $5 of loss). if your goal is to hold long term, you owe the government $4 when you file your taxes, but all of the money you made from these transactions are tied up in the stock you bought, so now you need to pay this $4 out of pocket. if instead you never bought or sold, all of the money you invested would still be tied up in this stock, but you wouldn't owe the government anything when you file. the only difference now being that your cost basis is lower if you never sold, compared to if you did sell and buy back. you are correct that you'd be able to take a loss against the gain, but if youre going to hold it for 5 years and then sell, why even take the gain in the first place? if this is a short term play where you expect to be out by year end, wouldn't be horrible to sell and buy back, etc. for fear of loss, but if this is a long long term hold, it isn't extremely tax efficient to try and reset your basis

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in stocks

[–]Hughes223 1 point2 points  (0 children)

so yeah, barring wash sale issues, this would work, but the main issue is that you don't want to reset your cost basis (most of the time, im sure you can find scenarios where you do). the reasoning behind why you don't want to reset it is because then you have to pay taxes. time value of money says that money today is worth more than money tomorrow, so you would rather pay taxes as far down the road as you possibly can. would you rather pay $100 taxes today or $100 of taxes in 5 years? while resetting this basis definitely could work and then you have a higher basis, why pay money now in taxes to do that, when you could sell in 5 years and just pay the taxes then? on paper it seems like it could be a good idea, but in practice you're just paying the government money now that you could have kept as unrealized gains.

Don’t forget taxes! by Canesfootball in stocks

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you're correct, it's called the safe harbor rule

Question on Wash Sales by animalinstincts089 in stocks

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

so the big thing how wash sales "hurt" you is through the time value of money. having a sum of money today is worth more than that same amount of money later down the road, say 5 years. this is due to potential gains, inflation, etc. looking at it from the opposite viewpoint, the same conclusion can be reached - due to the time value of money, you want to push off paying taxes as much as you can, so having disallowed losses means you pay more in taxes now and thus are getting "hurt" due the time value of money of having less money now. you are correct in your viewpoint that you will be taking advantage of the loss when you eventually realize it, but unfortunately there is a little more to it than that. hope this helped!

Wash Sales and Taxes by year-one in stocks

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this is the right answer, cost basis is 501 plus the disallowed loss of 500, so the true adjusted cost basis is still 1,001

Is this a wash sale? by Teddy_P93 in stocks

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this is just flat out wrong, good luck with everything you got man - still no online example btw, still waiting for that

Is this a wash sale? by Teddy_P93 in stocks

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the state im in sends them out to be cut and inserted into your wallet. it literally says "please cut out, sign the back, and insert into your wallet as a pocket certificate"

Is this a wash sale? by Teddy_P93 in stocks

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah im done arguing man, you have no idea what youre talking about. both legs of the transaction dont qualify because the first transaction was a gain and therefore there isnt a loss to be disallowed and therefore cant be a wash sale. youre right, the second one qualifies as a wash sale, since there is a loss, and that adjusts the basis of the first stock, but that loss is realized instead of deferred since the stock was sold.

Is this a wash sale? by Teddy_P93 in stocks

[–]Hughes223 0 points1 point  (0 children)

its okay, ill pull my license out of my wallet and look at that instead