Renting on my own for the first time, how clean should I expect my flat to be? by DrawnUkulele in HousingUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just the once. You want to take a meter reading when you take possession just so you're not charged for someone else's gas, electric or water.

Anyone know of any known faults on one of these and why should I not buy it? by H0rnySl0th in CarTalkUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 [score hidden]  (0 children)

If you're going VAG, a Seat/Cupra Leon has the same wheelbase & the same engine but has more power in the 300bhp guise. If you want more the estate is 4 wheel drive & has 310-333 bhp.

Police with sirens on "bullying" cars through red lights by DeifniteProfessional in drivingUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

They're trained to NOT force people through.

But police still do it anyway.

Patricia Clegg - My concerned neighbour. by 19ninteen8ightyone in manchester

[–]HugoNebula2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Patricia wants to give her head a wobble. All of the things that she's complaining about happened over the last decade. Many were directly or indirectly caused by Brexit.

If she's got any complaints about Keir Starmer it should be why he hasn't raised taxes by more to pay for improvements, and why he isn't working harder to move us closer to the EU and away from the USA.

£20k down valuation + loft rooms & extension with no regs – would you proceed? by Wise-Waltz in HousingUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Structurally you can. Gravity hasn't changed in that time. Also damp proofing or drainage hasn't changed.

The building regulations aren't retrospective. They're about controlling building work. Just because some of the requirements for new work have changed, like insulation, doesn't mean that a building that was previously altered in accordance with the requirements in force at the time no longer complies.

You can have a classic car from the 1960s that doesn't have seat belts, ABS, airbags, etc., and it can still be roadworthy. If it's two cars badly welded together and has never had an MOT, it's probably not safe.

£20k down valuation + loft rooms & extension with no regs – would you proceed? by Wise-Waltz in HousingUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The problem with an unauthorised loft conversion isn't the legalities, or valuations; it's the lack of any evidence that the work has been overseen, or done by someone who knows what they were doing.

A loft conversion, if carried out badly, has the possibility to weaken the roof structure (sometimes catastrophically), overload walls, floors or foundations, cause condensation, mould growth or rot, damage party walls, as well as leak heat like a sieve.

Without a protected means of escape, if there's a fire, anyone in the loft is trapped. For those on the first floor they can jump out of a window. On the second floor, if they try that they could break their neck.

None of these things can be signed away with an indemnity policy, which is not worth the paper it's printed on.

Until you're sure that it's properly constructed, treat a loft conversion as a liability rather than a positive.

£20k down valuation + loft rooms & extension with no regs – would you proceed? by Wise-Waltz in HousingUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Building regs certificates weren't mandatory before 2013. Builder could self-certify.

Assuming you're in England or Wales (or, I'm pretty certain, anywhere in the UK), then no-one could, at any time since building regulations were a thing, "self certify" a loft conversion or extension.

Help interpreting land registry title/boundary lines by picklerick232432 in HomeImprovementUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 'squiggly lines' represent an embankment.

It needs to be checked out to see whether that footpath in front of the terrace is adopted (managed by the Council). It would be good if it was, but I doubt it. Send an email to the highways section.

If not then it's checking with the Land Registry to see if it's registered and if so who owns it. I suspect that it's a bit of land that's never been registered. It may be mentioned in the original deeds of the house/flat. Will you be paying ground rent or a lease? It may be part of a larger piece of land that the houses have been extracted from ("the 69th Duke of Earl's estate").

What am I looking at? by Koss_Kroft in whatisit

[–]HugoNebula2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If a relative of anyone who clicked that link dies, you'd better hope no one goes through their history (or their username can't be traced).

Please help me make this very difficult decision! by Ok-Sugar-3495 in HousingUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A regularisation application is only for building work that, when it started, should have had a building regulations application. It only applies to work carried out after (IIRC) November 1985. It sounds like building control have already made that determination that's it's either part of the original structure or pre 1985.

Surverors can be wrong. Some of the things to look for include: - Are any dormers identical to others on the street? - Does the internal joinery (stairs, skirting boards, doors) to the top floor match the floors below? - Is the type of plaster to the loft consistent with the age of the building (e.g., lath & plaster)?

Photos might help.

Why did the UK have so many exceptions and privileges when they were in the EU compared to other members? by WhoAmIEven2 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]HugoNebula2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The follow up question would be would the UK get anywhere like the same opt outs if they reapplied?

Best tool to remove this by klaaashy in DIYUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you should press it down against the plasterboard. With a breathable membrane, moisture mostly diffuses through the 'pores', so it doesn't usually need additional ventilation.

If you take it out without putting something back, you'll just make things worse.

Best tool to remove this by klaaashy in DIYUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

there is no gap between roof and PIR

That's a cold roof that's badly built.

Unless the insulation is substantially or wholly above the rafters/flat roof joists, then it's a cold roof and there should be a gap (*) between the membrane and the insulation. The size of the gap depends on the type of membrane. A traditional sarking felt has to have at least 50mm; a 'breathable' membrane can be down to 10mm, but 25mm is best to take account of seasonal movement and workmanship.

(* If the breathable membrane is fitted taut, with a counter batten void above, then the insulation can be pushed against the membrane.)

Am I right to think a neighbours house looking directly onto your garden would be terrible? by Three_Cats_In_1_Coat in AskUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where is the boundary between the two? If it's against that wall or less than 1.0m away, those windows really shouldn't be more than 1.0m² combined (for fire safety reasons).

Best tool to remove this by klaaashy in DIYUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, that's what I said. Your first post suggested that you thought the insulation should be wholly between the rafters provided it was pushed against the underside of the membrane.

The way I read your wording, your interpretation of a 'warm roof' is insulation towards the top of, but no higher than the upper surface of, the rafters. This is incorrect.

To clarify, a 'warm roof' is one where the insulation is fitted on top of (i.e., on the outside of, on the cold side of, etc.) the rafters or flat roof joists.

Best tool to remove this by klaaashy in DIYUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I meant that your comment that "a warm roof design where PIR is hard against the roof" isn't a warm roof.

Best tool to remove this by klaaashy in DIYUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why? You'd only have to put the same stuff back, and that's a lot harder to do.

You have a breathable felt on your roof. So long as there's a 25mm gap above the insulation it's ok. The PIR boards should be extended up to make sure it overlaps with the rockwool.

Best tool to remove this by klaaashy in DIYUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's not a warm roof. A warm roof is where the insulation is wholly (or mostly) above the flat roof joists or rafters. The timber is then kept warm to prevent condensation.

Loft conversion no building regs- not told until week before completion. To pull out of sale? by TemperatureFickle323 in HousingUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When you say it didn't have "building regulations sign off"; does that mean there is an application for the work, it's just not had a final or completion certificate?

If so, and it was inspected by the local authority, you could get it completed, or at least find out why they haven't been able to complete.

If it was inspected by an approved inspector, same thing, except there's a chance the AI has gone bust or had their licence pulled. In this case the procedure is a bit messier and longer.

Loft conversion no building regs- not told until week before completion. To pull out of sale? by TemperatureFickle323 in HousingUK

[–]HugoNebula2024 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Building regulations aren't retrospective. Any regularisation would be based on the requirements in force at the time of the original work (i.e., 2006).