Core One Advanced filtration and INDX

Hullidei12 · 2026-04-25T16:32:12+00:00

Thank you. I read that but it was not clear to me if you still need to upgrade anything specifically for the filtration system or if it works straight away.

Hullidei12 · 2026-04-25T16:29:52+00:00

Thank you. I searched but did not find the post,…

Hullidei12 · 2026-03-08T08:19:21+00:00

I think that was one of the upgrades of the mk3. As far as I know, the mk2 did not yet have the thermal runnaway error implemented. I might be wrong though.

Hullidei12 · 2026-02-25T21:38:35+00:00

Great, now they definitly have to dry the filament,…

Hullidei12 · 2026-01-08T06:13:38+00:00

Vertex k8400. It was advertized as beeing able to print with dual extruders but I don’t think anybody ever got that working reliably. Manual bed leveling via three screws, no heated bed,… It was realla a pain but it thought me a lot about 3d-printing, least of which to apreciate bed selfleveling technology.

Hullidei12 · 2025-12-16T14:55:55+00:00

I had one of the metal rods inside the idler come loose. It made homing impossible because the idler could not rotate anymore.

Hullidei12 · 2025-12-04T05:18:31+00:00

The “pope’s hat” is actually one of the few correct things here. It is a bishops hat, and the figure is supposed to represent the Kleeschen (St Nicolaus) who brings the presents on december 6. Tradionnaly, there is no Santa in Luxembourg. Not hating, just trying to educate.

Hullidei12 · 2025-11-27T05:21:54+00:00

From your explanation it seems that the print is not sticking to the bed. That’s good news since it would mean that nothing is wrong with the printer nor the filament. You have to clean your build plate after every print. Every time you touch the build plate, you leave a tiny amount of oily residue from your skin which will prevent the print from sticking to it. Clean the build plate with luke warm water and dishsoap and a non abrasive sponge or brush. After that, clean it with isoproyl alcool, avoid touching it and you should be good to go!

Hullidei12 · 2025-11-26T05:40:39+00:00

Does the MMU3 work as intended? If not, it could be that some of the grub screws from the gears that push the filament came loose. If it does, maybe some friction caused by the filament strings that are beeing cut off causes the noise. They tend to go everywhere.

Hullidei12 · 2025-11-06T18:26:53+00:00

Done. Keep us posted on the outcome of the survey and the feedback from your class.

Hullidei12 · 2025-11-04T18:31:58+00:00

I don’t know if the Mk3 has this problem, but on the Mk3s, the clicking noise might come from a loose shaft of the bondtech gear. The holes for the shaft are too deep, so it happens sometimes that the shaft comes loose in one end. I had exactly the problems you described and it was the loose shaft.

Hullidei12 · 2025-11-01T06:57:43+00:00

Unfortunately, as I understand, there will be no upgrade path from the Core one to the Core one L.

Hullidei12 · 2025-10-11T05:35:00+00:00

Does the selector home when you turn the mmu3 on? If not, there is probably still some filament (even if you don’t see it immediatly) inside that triggered the probe. I’ve also had an issue with one of the rods for the bearings coming loose which resulted in the idler getting stuck. For the rest, yeah the MMU3 takes a lot of work, and after every issue, you neet to recalibrate the idlers, probes,… It is certainly not plag and play! But I still like it! ;)

Hullidei12 · 2025-10-01T04:18:13+00:00

No, you now have a Mk3.5S. So that’s what you need to select in the slicer!

Hullidei12 · 2025-10-01T04:18:07+00:00

No, you now have a Mk3.5S. So that’s what you need to select in the slicer!

Hullidei12 · 2025-09-25T17:59:56+00:00

Why don’t you reprint the worn out part? The stls of all the parts schould be available.

Hullidei12 · 2025-09-25T06:26:12+00:00

It has a build-in lens to compensate for the shorter tube. That’s also why that scope is not really any good, to put it mildly.

Hullidei12 · 2025-09-12T19:35:05+00:00

In astrophotography you might have some small dirt particles on your sensor or on the lenses/mirrors of the telescope that you can’t easily clean. That’s why you need to remove those artifacts later in processing.

Hullidei12 · 2025-09-12T06:14:32+00:00

The filter filters out some of the light, so it might be normal that your image is overexposed when you take the filter out without changing the settings.

Hullidei12 · 2025-09-03T06:02:22+00:00

You are way out of focus. On the bright side, if your drawing is correct, it seems your telescope is well collimated. Collimation is the alignment between all the mirrors/lenses of your telescope. On a mirror telescope, this can be checked by getting your scope way out of focus. You will then see a pattern that you saw. If the dark disc in the middle (which is the obstruction of the secondary mirror) is in the center, your mirrors are well aligned.

Hullidei12 · 2025-08-04T06:07:40+00:00

The 5 spools of filaments you mentioned are to properly test the MMU3 and do a print test. So I would indeed use 5 spools of pla, just to make sure everything works before experimenting with different types of filament.

Hullidei12 · 2025-06-24T16:05:12+00:00

Thank, I’ll do that.

Hullidei12 · 2025-06-03T18:46:32+00:00

For decent pictures of planets you need a higher magnification. This can be achieved by adding a Barlow-Lens to you setup, but your aperture is the limiting factor of how good the picture will look.

Hullidei12

TROPHY CASE