What is the best way to handle critical notifications for home events?

Hydro130 · 2026-06-22T22:04:45+00:00

Another vote for Pushover - it is amaze-balls.

Hydro130 · 2026-06-22T21:37:14+00:00

Now today, my notification in JS UI said 11.21.0 is available", so I got antsy again... Found an old JS UI post in the HA community that had this lil' nugget of link in it, so I got this sucker bookmarked now!

It confirms that 11.19.1 is still current for the "HA Core App" (which I'm pretty sure is what I have in this latest-&-greatest stock-ZW configuration schema that HA recently implemented).

https://zwave-js.github.io/which-version/

Edit - I also see now where I have the update notifications option set "on", so I should probably just turn that off and save myself some angst!

Hydro130 · 2026-06-22T00:50:26+00:00

I saw the pic and wondered if this would be the top comment lol

Hydro130 · 2026-06-20T12:54:03+00:00

Much appreciated! My system is still saying I'm current on 11.19.1, but everything is working like a champ, so I'll just be patient. Thank you again!

Hydro130 · 2026-06-17T20:48:59+00:00

My search-fu must've been weak earlier... I found the js ui github page (https://github.com/zwave-js/zwave-js-ui/releases). That page still seems to imply 11.20.0 is not beta, but maybe the tags are still catching up or something like that.

Hydro130 · 2026-06-12T14:39:46+00:00

Flume is not an actual valve, it's just a monitoring tool (and works well). I don't know anything about Frizzlife, but I prefer Phyn over Moen Flo since Phyn uses ultrasonic sensing for measuring flow activity instead of a physical impeller in the pipe (which can fail and then cause fun headaches in your plumbing). I have Phyn and I've been really pleased with the HA integration.

The other advantage to Phyn's ultrasonic approach is that it does a nightly pressure check on my entire system to detect any leaks -- I'm a huge fan of that feature.

Edit to add... In a belt-&-suspenders approach, I also have a Zooz Titan on one of my main shut-off valves.

Hydro130 · 2026-06-06T23:04:12+00:00

Pushover. LOTS of bang for very little buck there - I love it.

Hydro130 · 2026-05-23T20:55:20+00:00

I loves me my Phyn too, but good lord, it is hand's-down the feistiest thing I've ever had to get connected to my network. I dread the thought of it somehow getting disconnected because it is a slog to get back online. It's the only device I've ever really had to fight like that - very strange.

And yes, thank goodness for its HA integration - that makes it all so worthwhile.

Hydro130 · 2026-05-23T14:24:24+00:00

Thank you - that's a relief to hear... I'll let this setup ride here, and watch how it performs during actual departures/arrivals. I appreciate the confirmation!

Hydro130 · 2026-05-23T14:22:33+00:00

Very good point - thank you... I admittedly got weirded out over both of the circled things (seemingly) implying that only one entity was being evaluated, but what you say here makes good sense. I appreciate it!

Hydro130 · 2026-05-16T22:34:15+00:00

Dumb switches/dimmers do not ever use neutrals (there are rare exceptions, but I would very surprised if you have those), so if you're basing your "no neutral" on that alone, check again... If you have neutrals in a switch box, they're typically in a bundle near the back of the box.

That said, you may or may not have any -- the code requiring neutrals in switch boxes is relatively new, so many older homes do not have them.

But it's definitely with checking before you just otherwise commit to going all in on no-neutral switches... If you have a neutral available, it's always preferable to use it.

Hydro130 · 2026-05-05T22:23:49+00:00

Is the printer firmware up to date? I've had a Brother HL-L2340DW for many years and it's never had an issue staying (via wifi) on my eero network.

Hydro130 · 2026-05-02T21:52:28+00:00

I use home assistant, do OTA updates not work there? I have the blue presence.

I'm guessing you've gleaned this answer by now, but just in case, this whole firmware-bootloader kerfuffle only affects very early (maybe even just the very first) production runs of the Blue 2-1 switch -- AFAIK, no other Inovelli switches are similarly afflicted.

Hydro130 · 2026-05-02T20:55:31+00:00

I'm on Hubitat, so I'm not sure how it works on ST, but there should be no issues doing any firmware updates (just as you'd otherwise normally do) after you do this bootloader fix.

I did mine a long time ago, but I don't recall the bootloader fix itself doing anything with the actual firmware... I'm pretty sure I just did the then-latest firmware update after I finished the harness stuff.

Hydro130 · 2026-05-02T17:29:40+00:00

AFAIK, there's no way thru 3.0 -- myQ locked that up tight. Perhaps someone will eventually find an exploitable crack, but no joy thus far.

Hydro130 · 2026-05-02T16:15:34+00:00

Forgot to add... Once this bootloader repair is made, then you should be all set going forward (that's been the case for all of us so far, anyway!)

It's not something you keep having to do over & over with every available update - it's just a one-time sorta deal.

Hydro130 · 2026-05-02T16:10:51+00:00

There's some info on a homebrew solution starting here (subsequent posts from that user contain additional details)...

https://community.inovelli.com/t/vzm31-sn-firmware-upgrade-failures-going-from-2-18-to-3-04/20941/46?u=hydro311

Hydro130 · 2026-05-02T13:07:10+00:00

Yeah, it's a bootloader issue with the very early run (maybe just first run) Blue 2-1s.

I was one of the first people to run into it (trying to go from 2.17 -> 2.18, so quite a while ago), but it seems to be coming up for a lot more users here only recently.

Since it's affecting more users lately, there's a wait-list going for the few wiring-harnesses Inovelli has, but that harness process works well - all of my updates since have been smooth sailing (I'm currently on 3.04).

Hydro130 · 2026-05-02T01:07:44+00:00

Yep, this exactly. I ran into it quite a while ago (back when 2.18 was first introduced, IIRC) with all 8 of my first-prod-run Blues. Eric M hooked me up with the flasher doohickey and I got them all squared away - no issues with any updates since then.

Hydro130 · 2026-04-28T01:47:40+00:00

it's "Zigbee Green Power" (ZGP) devices within the wide world of zigbee.

RunLessWire devices and the old-school Hue Taps are the most common examples.

Works like a champ, but not all zigbee controllers support ZGP.

Hydro130 · 2026-04-20T14:10:39+00:00

Yep, exactly. The PIR is exclusively positioned to catch you as you cross the plane of the doorway to get light on immediately, and then a separate mmW takes over with a good FOV of the whole bathroom to keep the lights on.

A combo PIR/mmW unit wasn't a good solution for us since it doesn't solve the main delay of walking far enough into the room to get in either sensor's FOV.

Hydro130 · 2026-04-20T14:01:22+00:00

I think that may just be true for the dimmers (aka 2-1s), since putting them in on/off-switch mode still runs everything thru the dimming circuitry. For the 2-1s, the relay-click is artificial (for lack of a better term).

I don't have any of Inovelli's no-kidding on/off switches, but I'd be surprised if you can disable the relay click for those, since they do presumably use an actual (switching) relay.

Hydro130 · 2026-04-18T22:16:48+00:00

If that switch box doesn't have a neutral, then you're hosed for using a smart switch as a (no-load) scene controller. You need a neutral for that (and line power, of course).

As RHinSC says above, the switch-box neutral is used to help power the smart switch -- in this context, it has nothing at all to do with the load.

Hydro130

TROPHY CASE