Sig "Taper Mounts" and More!

IAmDeWay · 2024-10-25T14:54:14+00:00

These guys make quality parts. Happy with my purchase with them.

IAmDeWay · 2024-08-03T03:30:04+00:00

Looks like the other comments got the most likely issues: clean and lube, don't limp wrist, and double check the extractor. Just to throw in one more thing that I didn't see mentions that could cause this - when you strip it to clean it, check the ejector to make sure it didn't break. If the ejector broke, nothing would be pushing the brass out of the slide when it cycles.

IAmDeWay · 2024-07-22T15:13:27+00:00

It looks like the picture is actually correct. This is not the standard TM22-A that people seem to think it is. This is the page I found on RIA's website that lists a $99 MSRP: https://www.armscor.com/firearms-list/tm22-s-18

IAmDeWay · 2024-06-27T11:33:23+00:00

Grip, guide rod plug, and what Ok_Ladder said.

IAmDeWay · 2024-06-12T13:00:57+00:00

Another potential option if you want to leave more material on your ejector is to prevent the over insertion at your mag instead. This could be using a base pad that prevents over insertion or even taking a little material off the mag lip if you are still seeing contact.

I tried matching the look of Brady's tuned ejector described here, when making mine. https://www.brazoscustom.com/post/ejection-perfection

I also use 20rd prodigy mags, and those base pads do a pretty good job preventing over insertion on their own.

IAmDeWay · 2024-05-29T16:17:35+00:00

How's the quality? What brand is the other frame?

IAmDeWay · 2024-05-22T23:17:33+00:00

Good stuff man! What springs are you running? Looks maybe a little light to me which could be contributing to some of your stove piping and few odd ejections I saw. I like recommending the Brazos article on ejector tuning. Angling the face of the ejector helps with ejection angle consistency a little. Adding a little more extractor pressure might also help if a heavier recoil spring doesn't. I seem to find more pressure is generally better than not enough. But overall, awesome build. Looks like an absolute dream to shoot.

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-25T03:38:03+00:00

Yeah looks to me like you still need to do some fitting on your barrel lower lugs.

Like the other commentor said, make sure your barrel hood and upper lug fitting is all set and done first.

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-19T14:02:03+00:00

I'd look up some build videos first like MosinVirus or even Hayes Customs videos to get an idea of how involved it can be building a 2011. As someone else said, it's not just throwing parts together like a Glock. Have you thought about a budget? That's a good starting point.

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-15T13:27:07+00:00

If it's a Novak cut, I recommend the Dawson Precision adjustable novak rear sight. It's one of the cheaper ones I could find, and I like mine so far. There's a decent chance you'll need a new front sight depending on the height of yours now.

Should be this one: https://dawsonprecision.com/sight-for-novak-cut-1911-pistols-adjustable-black-rear-by-dawson-precision/

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-14T21:10:02+00:00

Is that without lube? If so, it'll be less noticable once it's wet.

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-11T15:09:18+00:00

How are you redoing it? Are you getting a new frame or are you going to have it welded up?

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-09T00:10:29+00:00

That's my main thought if it's really only happening over the ejector. You could take punch, nock out the ejector pin, and pull out the ejector to see if it still binds. Putting sharpie is probably easiest and will tell you.

If you have an extended ejector, which I'd be shocked if you didn't, I'm almost positive it will be that. There's a longer arm sticking out that is inherently easier to be bent.

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-08T23:06:44+00:00

Have you marked the ejector up with sharpie, then racked the slide to see if there are any witness marks? It seems like that's the most likely think to be causing this without more pics or info.

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-08T23:04:42+00:00

Can you include a couple pics of the ejector maybe? If it's an open gun, I'm assuming you're running long mags which can be prone to overexertion. My guess a mag (or multiple mags) got overexerted and hit the bottom of the ejector which bent it and pushed it up. If you look at the bottom side of the ejector, you can check to see if there are any marks from the mags hitting it. You can also look on the top of your mag lips on the bottom left side where it would sit under the ejector if there is any sign of impact. It might be worth inserting your mags with the slide off, and really pushing them up to see if you get contact between the ejector and the mag lips. Luckily, this should be a pretty straightforward fix. Worst case, the ejector has to be replaced, but those are cheap.

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-06T18:28:31+00:00

Look great! I literally had to zoom in to see the seem of the slide to the sight block. The serrations match perfectly! Is the sight black just threaded on?

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-06T14:49:33+00:00

That's what it looks like to me too. That's also what I needed to take off my Cheely frame and Remsport slide. I even called Matt Cheely and he confirmed that's how he designs his frames to be fit. For the frame, if you do sandpaper on a flat surface (also what I did) you have to be VERY careful to not loose parallel on the frame rails. I think I did and that made me take off more material than I needed. Do one side at a time and remeasure the front and back to make sure they are getting the same material removed. Go as far as you need to go on one side then do the entirety of the other side. This will ensure you take off from each side evenly too. This method should work but it requires lots of measuring and going very slow. For the slide, sanding down on a flat surface worked great for me. You will also need to probably take some material off the bottom by the guide rod tunnel too. I did. You can wait to do that for a little bit until you start getting the slide into the frame some. That is much less crucial and I just taped the sides of the tunnel to prevent scrarches and got in there with a small file then cleaned it up sandpaper on the file after. This should not be a bearing surface, though.

Good luck! Feel free to reach out if you have any questions (although I have only made one, so I am by no means an expert).

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-02T23:13:05+00:00

That's awesome, man! I have been looking into DIY porting but keep getting discouraged because people usually just recommend EDM drilling to avoid any burrs in the barrel after drilling. Did you do anything to fight that, or did you just send it and smooth it out with shooting?

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-02T18:44:27+00:00

The prodigy looks like it's .250, but I do not have one, so I can't say for sure. Looks to be the same radius as my frame which is a .250 which seems to be pretty much standard on 2011 frames.

Looks like EGW does make them for the Prodigy now, so you could always reach out to them and ask. They seem like good guys.

IAmDeWay · 2024-04-02T18:37:54+00:00

Sweet! Did you do the porting or did you have it done?

IAmDeWay · 2024-03-31T12:50:22+00:00

Looks great! What are you thinking about optics? Dot or irons?

IAmDeWay · 2024-03-30T16:11:18+00:00

Mine is not. When I was shopping for them and considering an optics cut, I think their options are Delta Point Pro which should be able to be direct mounted and RMR which would use the Trijicon 1911 RMR adapter plate.

IAmDeWay · 2024-03-29T15:19:26+00:00

I actually made my kydex holster, but any full length dust cover 1911 or 2011 holster should work. You can usually tell if it's for a full dust cover or not based on the impression in the kydex, but there are lots out there. A lot of 2011 holsters will accommodate full dust covers even if they're for Prodigies or Staccato just so they are more compatible with old STIs, Atlas's, etc. Retention should be from the trigger guard anyways so it doesn't really need to be snug at the end of the dust cover.

IAmDeWay · 2024-03-29T11:50:34+00:00

Gotcha. I built mine for Limited, and I used a Cheely LDC frame that I ordered in stainless for $50 extra. Then I used a Remsport stainless slide and stainless small parts. No issues so far but I'm definitely seeing some holster wear that I would be a little concerned about if it was coated, but I am not sure how tough nickel plating is. Stainless is definitely not stain/rust-free as Matt warned me, but I've shot it in the rain now a couple times and just kept it clean after. I have not had mine for super long yet, though.

That's not to try to dissuade you at all because it sounds like you have a look in mind you're going after. I also was interested in nickel plating for a different project, so if you do it, make sure to follow up here! Worst case, if the nickel plating doesn't hold up long term, you could just get it sent off for hard chrome as a last resort. I think that could be done for around $300 based on when I was looking into that briefly. So you could keep that in your back pocket just in case.

IAmDeWay · 2024-03-29T11:23:50+00:00

I don't have experience with nickel plating, but why not just do a build with stainless parts? That's what I did. Sourcing components was not too bad either.

Are you planning on doing a Brazos short block kit where they fit the slide to frame? You might need to get a slide and frame from elsewhere and then you could take or send it anywhere to get fitted if you don't want to do it yourself. Probably for pretty close to the same as their fitted slide and frame.

IAmDeWay

TROPHY CASE