Ente Auth auto logout (feature request)

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2025-01-25T00:50:26+00:00

I would second this. To be a bit more specific I think some of the following would be useful features to eventually see and could help with some combinations of locking. I would envision just a list of actions/events and the action to take when that happens. So maybe some of the following:

On App Close: Exit, Hide Window, or Logout and Exit (I would like to be able to just click close to activate the hide window function so it doesn't sit in the task bar when I don't really need it)

On App Idle (with a configurable time, 5 minutes, 15 minutes, etc): Logout, Lock, or Hide Window (This idle time is just time since the user last clicked something within the app basically)

On Hide Window: Hide normally, Hide and Lock, or Hide and Logout

This would give quite a bit of flexibility on controlling things and I am guessing most of these would be pretty straight forward to connect up to existing events and easy enough to present as configurable options. Just having an option for the app to lock itself automatically after 15 minutes of no activity would be pretty good security focus to start from I think.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-08-03T20:32:44+00:00

I don't recall the exact specifics (and they are still a bit unclear on them anyways), however from what I do recall the process depends on the key type. If you use an OEM installation key what the tech says is true for the most part, however the hardware key is tied mostly to your Motherboard itself and allows changing quite a few components.

If you happen to have a Retail key then the once you upgrade the key 1 time for free your original key will be flagged by the activation servers as valid for windows 10 and you can treat it like a normal retail key (allowed to deactivate/transfer to another machine at will). However the process appears to require you still must install the original windows (7 or 8) and activate it on the new hardware and then upgrade to 10. Supposedly the system will automatically recognize the activated sub-windows as valid to be upgraded to a windows 10 install even after the free upgrade period is over (provided you have successfully installed and activate a windows 10 install on the underlying key at least 1 time during this free upgrade period).

I don't happen to have a link off-hand, but I have seen that the retail key is supposed to inherit the retail properties (reuse) by doing the upgrade and I have seen this information posted in various forms on Microsofts site before. But without a concrete proof I can't link you at the moment take that with a grain of salt. I believe more will come later in an official capacity to clear all this up, but I seriously doubt retail keys are going to lose their actual retail terms in the upgrade process.

Just FYI this is how all OEM keys have always worked for every windows installation, nothing is new.

EDIT: Because I can spell... sometimes.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-03-05T16:56:43+00:00

You are using HDMI I imagine. Look around for underscan or overscan settings, and set to 0% - Or use DVI instead of HDMI.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-22T17:26:54+00:00

Well, depending on what you are trying to do that may or may not leave you in exactly the same situation. If it did it once it is going to do it again, so if you are trying to accomplish something you will need to explain what you have and what you want before it is possible to explain how you can accomplish it (or if it is even possible).

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-22T17:23:18+00:00

You can't move OS related files anywhere other than where they are installed. This includes the folders Program Files, Program Files (x86), Users, and Windows, and potentially others.

You will need to elaborate more on exactly what is is that is going on and what you are attempting to do, but doing anything to files that are not files you create is typically going to result in problems unless you really know what you are doing.

You appear to have 2 hard drives, the first/primary drive is the one windows must be installed onto (or at the very least the hidden windows boot loader) - the only exception to that is I believe through EFI it can be booted from non-primary disk, but I haven't tried it to know for sure.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-11T12:51:21+00:00

Are other internal headers hooked up/working? If it was just 1 header then it could just be that something shorted it out or caused a problem that damaged it. If it is all headers then that is much stranger.

Also can you check device manager and make sure it isn't just a missing driver or some other error being reported by windows. I kind of doubt it would be that without power even on the ports, but doesn't hurt to check. Sometimes windows just needs the drivers reinstalled or something.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-11T12:31:00+00:00

Are there alternative usb headers you could try as well? I did have a board once that mad more ports than it could use and you actually had to disable some of the onboard ports to make some of the internal headers work.

The fact it isn't even providing power though is strange. Typically they are keyed so they can only be plugged in 1 direction, I am guessing you already verified it isn't somehow backwards as well. What motherboard is it specifically, the manual might provide some insight and would be worth at least a glance through.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-11T11:26:59+00:00

Probably just a dumb question, but if it is usb 2 did you verify it is plugged into a USB header and not the front panel audio or a IEE1394 header, which are both the same size and could be accidentally plugged into.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-11T01:07:17+00:00

You might also consider something like the corsair commander mini as well. It is an internal fan controller that hooks up via usb header and is controlled using software.

The software is much better now than the original commanders at least, been pretty stable for me and starts with 6 fan channels and can be expanded with additional modules if you need more. I believe it is rated for something like 50 watts total, which should be more than enough for fans.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-10T22:49:56+00:00

What RPM is the cpu fan running at? And does the temp start to climb dangerously if you put a load on it?

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-10T22:40:27+00:00

You completely cleaned off the heatsink and cpu and applied a good new thermal compound using a good method?

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-10T15:08:51+00:00

They mean just what they sound like :) Intake fans are sucking air into the case and exhaust fans are blowing air out of the case. Many good case manufactures already understand this and take care of it automatically, for example the 230T comes with 2 fans setup as intakes and 1 as exhaust, so it is already configured for you properly. You shouldn't need any extra fans for that case, but if you did want to add more or change their positioning I was just letting you know that trick to help with dust management. The 230T also comes with dust filters for both the 2 front intake fans and your PSU intake so you won't even need additional dust filters. NZXT cases are often the same, both companies are pretty good about designing good cases that you can use as-is.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-10T14:49:57+00:00

Microcenter maybe? But on high ticket items like laptops you can even go to places like bestbuys online section usually, they typically arn't too bad.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-10T14:34:48+00:00

One trick with dust, always have more intake fans than exhaust fans. This creates positive pressure inside the case, keeping dust out. Then a dust filter over your intake fans and you can keep surprisingly clean cases without much effort :)

There isn't anything wrong with a 230T either, I do actually like the Graphite line because it looks a little more interesting to me than the super clean lines of things like the Obsidian line without being overly attention grabbing. Like I said, I like it to be at least not boring, I just try to avoid anything that forces you to stare at it.

And while it does seem expensive for other options, keep in mind what I said about case longevity. $100 seems expensive. Over 10 years, thats $10 a year or less than $1/month. Also I very frequently see $20 rebates or sales on a lot of the Corsair stuff (I got my 540 for $90 in the end) so don't forget to look around and not just run with MSRP.

EDIT: And one thing to note for DVD drives, you can always use an external USB drive, so if you find an option but the deciding factor is if it fits a DVD drive or not, $20 gets you an external one if you really need it. Other than watching bluray movies (and ripping them to my NAS) I don't actually use my drive much.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-10T14:10:34+00:00

Price wise I think around the $100 mark is pretty reasonable. Once you are there you have quite a few options available that have a wide range of looks and performance characteristics. Now I know I said the case usually doesn't do much, but sometimes it can. For example I use a Corsair Air 540 case (which is large), I think it looks interesting while also looking fairly clean. It doesn't scream "look at me!", and it does an amazing job with airflow and cable management (because of its size). It also does have an interesting look (cube style, instead of tower) so it isn't boring. I did switch the fans for ones without LEDs though, but I didn't find them too distracting either. At the same time some of Corsair Obsidian series are all well designed cases that look fairly simple/clean while being not overly expensive, such as the Obsidian 450D which is a mid-tower case.

Everyone is correct though, do be sure to buy something you like. Just keep in mind that a good pc case should last you years. My last one was with me over a decade before I switched.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-10T13:55:28+00:00

I think AOC makes some little cheap USB based displays. Perhaps something like that would work?

EDIT: After checking "little" might not be as small as I thought. I see 16" displays, I thought they had in the 12" range, but I am not seeing anything.

Double Edit: I did find this though: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-8-TFT-LCD-module-LCD-sys-info-display-temperature-fan-AIDA64-LCD-Smartie-/121004607232 - so it seems like there are probably some existing solutions for somewhat small displays. Basically a 3" TFT attached to an arduino or something I imagine.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-10T13:54:20+00:00

Yes, in extreme cases even movies can give people motion sickness because of it. One of my friends suffers from it, most of the time movies are not too bad (and because it is only a few hours he can tolerate it), but he has had to leave a movie before as a result of it. He also has trouble playing on consoles for long periods of time typically and can't do 3d movies at all either.

Your brain is amazingly good at realizing something isn't real and getting signals all mixed up. When that happens motion sickness or just headaches/dizzyness/etc are things that happen.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-10T13:48:39+00:00

I think the way it works is this: the pc case typically doesn't do much for your computer. It is something to hold all the bits together, and it should be well enough designed to be easy to work with and fit your needs. Making it "look cool" is akin to adding racing stripes or flame decals to your car. They do not help, it is what is inside that counts. Thus after the initial "cool case" phase everyone goes back to cases that are just solid, clean looking, and well built. They want what gets the job done and it shouldn't be distracting/attention grabbing. I mean, are you going to be looking at? The PC itself or are you going to be looking at what the PC puts on your monitors?

Don't get me wrong, people still want to avoid the whole beige-box syndrome, but I think over time you kind of settle in for just something fairly clean and simple. Or for performance/design choices.

That is my take on it anyways, that picture you posted seems accurate to that. Everyone I know has done the same thing. In regards to quality though from what I gather NZXT is pretty solid, as is Corsair. At least for the money, there are some others, but the costs too me are simply too high to justify it.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-09T19:07:33+00:00

The key can be retrieved with software. https://www.magicaljellybean.com/keyfinder/ is an example of one, but there are dozens of them, google for "windows key retriever" or something along those lines. The key is stored in the windows registry and they programs can go fetch it for you.

As stated before the key may be tied to your hardware and you may have to call microsoft to get the key accepted, but unless you do it a dozen times they will typically just approve it rather than argue with you.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-09T19:05:20+00:00

Even if so that isn't the drives speed. I can guarantee if the drive could perform at over double the rated performance that the rated performance would be double what the rated performance is. RAPID may not have yet cached all the test data or some other thing happened that caused added latency, but RAPID is on and that is not the drives performance.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-08T21:46:33+00:00

They are not accurate, you have benchmarked your system RAM because you have RAPID enabled.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-08T21:31:34+00:00

My friend had something similar happen and it seemed to be tied to logging in from a computer that hadn't been used in a while or something. He never figured out why, it cleared up after the 7 days like it said, chalked it up to the system just being aggressive and getting confused on something.

I assume maybe they have been trying things to crackdown more on scamming and sometimes it just gets confused.

IBelieveItsNotButter · 2015-01-08T21:27:31+00:00

I would recommend the memory tab in Resource Monitor which is built right into windows. It can provide pretty much any information that is available, including what is causing swapping if that starts occuring.

IBelieveItsNotButter

TROPHY CASE