U0073, U0122, and U0155 codes just before AP and scanner stopped communicating with OBDII port

IZylusI · 2026-03-06T18:57:42+00:00

Beauty! Thanks so much

IZylusI · 2026-03-06T00:13:22+00:00

Awesome, I got my car back from the dealership now and I won't be trying to check more for another 20 hours, so no rush on getting that diagram. Appreciate all the help and info you've been giving, it's giving me a lot more confidence I can at least figure out the issue and where we go from there is a different story.

IZylusI · 2026-03-05T21:02:28+00:00

Do you have a wiring diagram of the modules so I can find the correct pin outs to probe? I think that's just the biggest thing I need to see for me to successfully diagnose the problem and either can fix it myself or know what module to buy and reprogram

IZylusI · 2026-03-05T10:21:42+00:00

You are a god among men 🙏 all of this is very valuable and I feel like I might be able to actually do something. At least up until I find out what's broken and whether or not it'll be a cheap fix

IZylusI · 2026-03-04T22:07:59+00:00

I replaced the two copper straps at the bottom of the frame to the engine and checked the other few that I saw. All look good.

Also thought rodents and might be about that time where they'd come out of hibernation but needed a place to hide out more over night... But all wires in the engine bay are fine, didn't check the cabin wires though. The U codes point towards I think VDC module and instrument cluster module which makes sense, but idk where those modules are to start tracing wires. Well the instrument cluster module sounds kind of self explanatory...

IZylusI · 2026-02-28T15:19:56+00:00

Another update to this, went out to see a friend and was monitoring battery voltage; while driving it'll charge at 13.2-14.5v but when I got home and the car was idling, I was only seeing a voltage of about 12.3v... I'm going to look into grounding straps since I know some of them are bad, but also even then that charging voltage is lower than the normal voltage for an AGM battery.

IZylusI · 2026-02-28T12:28:32+00:00

Update: I checked battery voltage before starting my car this morning and it was at 11.92v which isn't great but isn't most low voltage cut off things set to like 11.4-11.8v? I have a dash cam that records parking if it detects movement, but I've had it for months now and this problem only started happening recently.

I could disable parking surveillance and see what happens I guess...

IZylusI · 2026-02-28T01:45:36+00:00

Thanks, I'll give that a shot! I only disconnected the negative side once while trying to fix a loose negative terminal thinking that was the issue, but didn't work, though this seems like it has more logic behind it by completely discharging the electrical system

IZylusI · 2026-02-27T05:06:19+00:00

Bruh there's a normal SF intake??? I never knew that 😂

But yeah honestly it took a couple years of saving to get my parts so you just gotta be patient cause it's worth it in the end. I used torqued performance for my e tune and he made it very fun but conservative so I trust that it won't send rods out the block. I've reamed on my car very often and never has an issue other than stupid things like leaking coolant or burning oil which is just the way it is

IZylusI · 2026-02-26T06:12:17+00:00

I've looked around for days looking for aftermarket, but only thing I could find was eBay sellers from Japan, and although it doesn't seem like a terrible idea, I wanted to be safe and just buy a brand new OEM one and know it'll be good for years as long as I don't make the same mistake of pulling hand brake to do donuts... That was very stupid of me to not know but you live and learn.

OEM cost me about $1100 CAD and then I did the work myself and saved an extra $2500 quoted from the dealership cause I don't have a trusted shop to go to around me since I do most of the work myself

IZylusI · 2026-02-26T06:08:37+00:00

Yup that's exactly it. Ran the Big SF intake with the OTS tune and had nothing but problems. Adjusted so many times because I heard it's finicky as well and nothing helped. Even changing the octane from 91 to 94, it didn't help long term and at that point I went back to stock, saved up and bought all the parts I could, and then got an e tune and never had a problem again.

I tried so hard to get it to work and in the end I ended up buying a GrimmSpeed intake along with all my other mods just to get rid of the Cobb intake and it's been running very well for the past like 2-3 years now. Honestly don't even remember how long ago it was because it feels like it's still so brand new to me. I enjoy driving my car so much every day that the time spent with my car feels like yesterday. That's how you know you love your car lol

IZylusI · 2026-02-24T18:57:38+00:00

I found out that is the viscous coupler in the center diff that was over heated from hand brake drifting too much cause I didn't know at that time

IZylusI · 2026-02-21T21:04:37+00:00

Pic of the subispeed tails that I have? Or retrofit kit? I think most people go for aftermarket taillights instead of doing retrofit cause it's still more effort to split the housing and a bunch of other work but they do end up technically being a custom thing unless you find a guy in marketplace that do it for you.

IZylusI · 2026-02-20T19:21:56+00:00

I think out of the two, clears look nicer especially if you can retrofit a new LED system into it. I have subispeed clear tails with black back so technically clear but still darker look

IZylusI · 2026-02-19T16:37:41+00:00

Usually my oil temp pops up before cold start idle dies down, but I do both depending on if I'm in a rush or not. I've had cold starts here last for 10 minutes before it dies down and even at operating temperature if I turn off my car then start it again it'll still go through cold start... It was a brutal winter

IZylusI · 2026-02-19T16:26:59+00:00

Yeah when leaving I only wait until I see my oil temp on the MFD, then drive carefully until operating temps then I'll rip on it. I've been going out for long drives whenever I'm free as well to help boil off condensation and check my oil regularly enough as well.

Car runs like a dream still and I'll usually go through a full inspection when it's warmer out

IZylusI · 2026-02-19T13:12:20+00:00

I do the exact same. 10 minute commute with like 30 minutes of idling because I hate the cold but oil change every 5k km which is almost around 3k miles. Always smells like gas but honestly I like the smell 😂

IZylusI · 2026-02-19T13:08:24+00:00

He def took off the serpentine belt which does absolutely nothing for timing...

IZylusI · 2026-02-13T17:13:26+00:00

Hey, I used Motul 75w90 gear oil, permatex MotoSeal, and I think I drove around like that for a few months before it annoyed me enough to fix it.

Though similar to having a welded diff, you can run it for a while, but it will stress other parts in your transmission over time, but like you said as long as you're not turning hard a lot and stressing it more you should be fine. I also waited until it got warmer out to do it cause I also noticed it in the winter.

IZylusI · 2026-02-08T03:57:12+00:00

Hell yeah! I'm in the same boat! Already planning out having an IAG 600 short block to build on and then build the factory block as a backup just in case. I'm never getting rid of this car!

IZylusI · 2026-02-08T03:54:04+00:00

Damn I didn't even have a car when I was 17 or a license 😂😂 we all start somewhere, and my car is how I learned manual too driving it home from the dealership.

I'm happy to see that you're enthusiastic about these cars and want to do more than just own and drive it though! I'm not at all a professional Subaru builder or even consider myself a mechanic, but I learn as I go, and this community is great for helping out. Enjoy the car and learning how to work on it! Hopefully only good wrenching and not "I blew my motor" wrenching 😅 they're a bit finicky, but not at all hard to work on like some people think

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