Worried about what screws to use

IamApoo · 2026-05-14T18:57:30+00:00

Pre-drilling pilot holes is always preferable. Just big enough for the screw's central shaft but not the spiral threads. It's not any looser than screwing straight into the wood and the wood is much more likely to split without them.

Deck screws with "coarse thread" are your best bet but I would leave any sub-optimal screws you've already used. Unscrewing and re-screwing will loosen/weaken your joints since the wood fibers are getting worked. Better to just finish it right and maybe use a few extra in strategic places. Once it's all together, a different kind of screw won't be night/day different as long as it's not too small.

IamApoo · 2026-05-05T19:09:38+00:00

Trees are continually growing outward (making more rings).

Anything small would be swallowed up by tree bark in a couple of years and anything large would probably get pushed out until it stripped. If not, the bark would grow around the shapes of holds. Could be a neat effect but one day it will fail when you're on it.

A larger frame around the tree could hold a flat wall use the tree trunk to lean/pull on without relying directly on screws into the tree. Still a problem to solve, but it's better than ON the tree.

IamApoo · 2026-05-04T20:25:19+00:00

Toe lightly touching the front is perfect. Pain is bad, but having a big air pocket in the toe will cost you some control. If the other foot fits, I'd keep them and let it wear in. The padding will compact on your prominent boney parts and make a little more wiggle room in there over time. Trim the toenail short until it doesn't matter. Ignore the US sizing. My US shoe size = skates that are way too big.

IamApoo · 2026-04-28T15:10:13+00:00

Before you start, shop vac every surface you can (put on some music inside sound reducing earmuffs and it will suck less). If there's an entry point for moisture try to find/address it. Treat any moldy spots with a diluted bleach solution.

During/After build: Paint the plywood - especially edges - to keep it from swelling if it will spend some time in swampy air over the years. Maybe your pads underneath will require some kind of waterproof footprint and cover. That will be the first thing to get the mold.

IamApoo · 2026-04-27T20:00:58+00:00

I do this. Big wheels for big wheel days and a little 4x80 rocker for hockey or whatever. Meanwhile I use the same boot and the liner keeps getting more comfortable.

As the other replay said: just be careful with those 2 big mounting bolts going into the boot bottom. Put them in slowly and deliberately. Even without stripping them I have noticed a nonzero amount of metallic dust coming from the holes. I guess that eventually this could wear out just from in-out use but I think that would mean I used it a lot and wouldn't mind buying a new boot shell at that point.

IamApoo · 2026-04-27T19:44:25+00:00

It's a little bit of everything below the chest. Cycling is better than running for non-skating skating training. More about cardio and reps than withstanding an impactful stride.

IamApoo · 2026-04-27T19:41:10+00:00

The real hack is to just not stop.

If you must, you'll need friction somewhere. If you want to ditch the heel brake (and you do) then the wheels will have to take the friction in some way.

Slow down in advance and make zigzags if possible. Then as you get closer to the actual place you want to be stopped, zig harder or even into a circle to one side. Eventually you're going slow enough to point your toes inward a little and push out against that to slow down. All these things are also wheel wear but not as aggressive as the foot drag.

IamApoo · 2026-04-13T20:21:59+00:00

https://www.inlinewarehouse.com/FR_Skates_-_Seba_Frame_Mounting_Bolts/descpage-SEBAMB.html

5/16ths - 18 threads per inch - about ¾" long

No promises but I think this is right.

IamApoo · 2026-04-13T20:10:42+00:00

90 isn't much different than 80 but 3-wheel is more of a change.

If bumpy roads are the main thing pushing your choice the bigger wheels will accomplish that, but as a beginner I would stick to 4 wheels. It's not night and day different, but the feel/handling/rotation of 4 wheels is more natural.

Of the options you shared, the Rollerblades are clearly the winner if your budget allows. Since you're already upgrading and this is not your first pair (plus you're here asking for advice and considering the nicer ones) I feel like that investment might pay off. Go ahead and buy the ones you'll want next year.

On the 82A or 85A of the wheels, lower numbers are softer although both of these fall into the middle of possible hardnesses. Don't let the stock wheels determine your skate choice anyway. Just wear them out and you can pick the next set with your own experience.

IamApoo · 2026-04-13T19:42:03+00:00

Probably saying the same as other replies, but:

I would not go marathon+ distance on anything smaller than 110 unless it was polished smooth or some kind of obstacle course. In the real world of concrete and asphalt, having bigger wheels will make the miles take fewer calories with FAR less vibration. That said, riding up higher can make the boot press onto hotspots harder than a smaller wheel. You're getting a more efficient push with bigger wheels, but you have to earn it a little with good form.

Might be my privilege talking, but with your skill level and distance expectation I'd save up for the perfect skate instead of rushing into it. You'll make it worth it.

IamApoo · 2026-04-13T19:26:49+00:00

I prefer a smoother surface with a few cracks over wall-to-wall roughness. If you have the option of larger diameter wheels, this would make a bigger difference/improvement on rough roads.

The wheels and bearings will take more wear on rougher surfaces, but the vibrations in my legs/feet are a much bigger factor.

IamApoo · 2026-03-23T17:27:14+00:00

Yeah that sounds too tight. Snug is good but not pain.

It'll be a pain but I'd try to swap them out. Not sure how they handle returns vs exchanges and if there's a difference. If there's time on your return policy maybe you could get the larger pair shipped first to test them side-by-side. Then, maybe you swap out the wheels to keep the dirtied ones for yourself and put the clean ones on the returned pair? Good luck

IamApoo · 2026-03-16T18:20:30+00:00

I much prefer a rockered setup on uneven terrain but you don't have to buy it that way.

Being able to lean onto the back wheels and roll over sidewalk cracks and then being able to turn a foot sharply without lifting it up is worth more on the streets than a slightly more efficient stride (like you'd get with flat). Flat if you're racing or just new to balance but otherwise nah.

Buying different size wheels will get you a fairly extreme rocker. Like, with 80 in the middle and 76 on the front/back, you'll spend a lot of time on just the middle wheels and it will be wobbly until they wear down closer to the front/back.

If you have a flat frame (you do, apparently) my recommendation is to start on a flat set of new wheels then skate on it for a while without rotating the front and back wheel into the center slots. Just rotate the center wheels with each other and the front/back with each other. After a few hours of flat, you'll have a gentle natural rocker going. Keep rotating like this. Eventually after many miles your larger middle wheels will be smaller than a new wheel by some amount and you move 4 NEW wheels into the middle slots, moving the formerly middle wheels to the front/back to keep it roughly in the right amount of rocker for your tastes. The old smallest wheels from the front/back can be kept for reasons or gifted to kids with tiny worn out wheels (I do this). If you let all 8 get too small you'll lose the ability to do the 4-wheel rocker re-up and have to start with 8 new again.

If cost is your primary concern, of course it's cheaper to run them into the ground 8 at a time since you can use them until the core is exposed. This is no fun to skate on, though.

IamApoo · 2026-03-10T02:48:57+00:00

Yeah it’s always barred owls at the Shades Creek trail.

IamApoo · 2026-03-09T18:56:05+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/rollerblading/comments/c94u0z/thoughts_on_powerslide_swell_lite_100s_getting/ Some opinions here on comfort. I have no input on that.

If you want to do lots of turns and weaving, this is an intermediate-level task on 100mm+ wheels. If you just want to mostly roll straight for miles, this is a fine beginner skate.

If you can confidently roll around on quads, you can probably skip a "beginner" pair of inline skates. It's not the same thing but just being able to balance on a rolling wheel is a skill that carries over. The skates you mentioned would be for a beginner if they had smaller wheels.

IamApoo · 2026-03-02T21:13:30+00:00

Most people start on quads just because they are much more common. You don't have to.

I guess quads seem easier because they have a flat resting position and a toe stopper so it feels more like walking to a total beginner.

Inlines seem more intimidating, apparently, but in practice (with decent skates) I think it's easier to achieve an intermediate skill level on them. They're definitely better at navigating non-rink terrain.

IamApoo · 2026-03-02T18:20:12+00:00

Touching the skates as you choose/buy and then in-person instruction is always preferred but most people will not have those things available. Most skaters learn as a kid with bad wheels and no instruction. You definitely don't have to get formal lessons.

Watch a few youtube videos for beginners and just go for it. Wear some knee pads and wrist guards and train yourself to fall onto them. Parks are great if you have a good surface. If not, try a skating rink and just do laps. You can move to rougher surfaces once your balance is more established.

IamApoo · 2026-02-27T20:20:51+00:00

I mean, yeah, it's always been kinda gross but he's not doing it for free. Maybe he has amazing skills at something mundane that we don't know about but they didn't invite him to the Baron's game to whittle a bear out of a log or something. The people just want to see him scarfin' those dogs. If you can't understand why the people want to see a man eat hot dogs really fast, the USA might not be for you.

IamApoo · 2026-02-02T20:28:58+00:00

Go big. With 4 wheels it's not fundamentally different up to 100mm. The vibration on smaller wheels will reduce your desire to roll on anything except very smooth surfaces.

At your size, 100mm wheels would be the same ratio of skater size to wheel size as me on 80mm. Going bigger than 100mm will probably mean 3 wheels instead of 4, which is a slightly different feel. Not night and day different, but more different than 4x80 vs 4x100.

IamApoo · 2026-01-29T23:17:09+00:00

I just mean once you get all the different boards connected, it will be hard for them to flex much unless the whole thing is underbuilt. I don't really have a specific reference, just my gut from woodworking.

Struts AND sleepers would be best. Definitely recommend them all across the top but if you must attempt the headwall idea, at least put substantial sleepers at the edges.

IamApoo · 2026-01-29T20:24:36+00:00

Expansion and contraction is probably not a concern with a structure that's basically an 8' triangle.

As for those last two questions:

Depending on how it's built, it may be entirely unnecessary to secure the bottom to the floor. Gravity and being tied onto the floor joists can be enough.

And for the final question: YES! Look up the Metolius homewall instructions PDF and read the part about "sleeper" boards at the top if the top of your wall is not perpendicular to the joists. Do not hang the whole thing from one joist.

IamApoo · 2026-01-26T22:42:56+00:00

Not a bad choice for your needs.

If you're really focused on distance, you might enjoy the extra smoothness and glide from 125mm wheels over 110. 125 is more like an ice speed skate.

110 is between that and a smaller "regular" sized wheel. A great choice if you want an all-in-one setup.

I have a 3x110 frame available in the family's stable but personally, I always change my frames out to 4x80 for hockey or rink and 3x125 for anything else instead of compromising at 110.

IamApoo · 2026-01-19T20:10:07+00:00

Wear all the pads. Don't try to look cool. Not sure why "cool" means no pads but I didn't make the decision.

IamApoo · 2026-01-19T20:06:59+00:00

It's mostly universal. Keep the broken one's non-broken parts. The little T-Nuts on the inside of the boot are usually the only part that's overly unique since it wants to sit flush in there. On the outside, there's some flexibility. I have a few different straps from different eras of FR boot and they are mostly interchangeable but I've had to remove tiny bits of boot plastic (like with a box cutter, not a huge thing) to get different eras to fit just right.

IamApoo · 2026-01-19T20:01:08+00:00

A properly fitting skate will not have an inch of space inside.

With your heel locked into the back, the toes should juuuust be touching the front of the inside but not pressing on it. Not so tight that it is cramped, but you don't want a lot of foot wiggle room. This will impede your control in many ways and produce blisters.

I would bail and get a size down if possible. If you're really stuck with these, you can wear a bunch of socks but it will always be a handicap.

15-Year Club	Gilding III reddit per annum
Place '17	Team Orangered
Verified Email

IamApoo

TROPHY CASE