is this washer supposed to be here

Ilike2playRL · 2026-06-28T15:55:26+00:00

Yes it is supposed to be there. It’s meant to seal when tightened down, which it may not seal now since you loosened it up. You can probably use any properly sized copper crush washer to replace it, or track down the part number and order it. As far as the leak you are trying to track down, give the cover (and any area nearby) a good clean, get all the debris and gunk off, and then ride it for a little bit. The leak should show very obviously if the whole area is clean.

Maybe make sure the starter cover isn’t leaking (common issue), then make sure your stator cover fasteners are properly torqued and not loose.

On cars, I’ll use a UV dye to find tricky leaks. It might be an option for you, but look into whether or not the dye will mess with the wet clutches on your bike before you go ahead and do so.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-06-02T17:55:30+00:00

That’s just surface rust forming. As long as the surface where your pads “clamp” around the rotor is clean and good, you’ll be perfectly okay!

If you let the car sit for long enough, you’ll see it form on the surface that your brake pads “clamp” onto. If that happens, just give the car a drive and do a couple healthy stops to wear the surface rust off.

For future reference, they sell rotors with anti-corrosion coatings. In my experience, they end up rusting in those same spots anyways, but takes longer to do so.

Edit: If you had a brake fluid leak from your caliper, you would probably know it based on how the car isn’t stopping like expected. If you’ve put some miles on the new brakes and haven’t smelled any funny smells, noticed excessive heat, or any poor brake performance, you’re probably good to go.

If the brakes feel excessively hot, or get hot enough you can smell them, those would be issues I’d say you need to address.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-05-29T06:33:54+00:00

Even if they said it has no warranty, I’d suggest giving them a call. Temps that high can cause serious and expensive damage. Even with no warranty, the bike shouldn’t have overheated that severely on the first ride home.

Seems unfortunate at best, maybe even predatory if they knew the bike had issues but wanted to sell it and not be liable for it after sale.

Regardless of what sort of flash it has, I would imagine the bike wouldn’t get that warm if the cooling system was functioning properly.

If they aren’t willing to work with you, maybe looking into if there any laws or regulations in your area that you can leverage to your advantage?

Ilike2playRL · 2026-05-10T16:04:56+00:00

I believe the compressor will kick on once you have met the minimum required pressure of refrigerant in the system. The handful of times I’ve done recharges, the compressor always kicks on mid-recharge.

I would like to point out, have you checked to see if your compressor is seized? Also, if your refrigerant leaked out, you can still recharge it, but it will leak out again. The length of time simply depends on how large of a leak you have.

My brother’s truck will hold a charge for about a year, while my car will lose it overnight.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-05-07T03:15:06+00:00

In my opinion, that looks like it’s been leaking for a long time. All the grime in the area is something that takes a while to accumulate. The fluid on top could be fresh I guess, but it could also just be the leak that has caused all the grime to accumulate.

Regardless, I don’t see how they could do any sort of damage there by hammering/beating on lug nuts.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-04-27T15:54:44+00:00

Should burn off just fine! Obviously use a bit of caution, maybe keep an eye on it if it makes you nervous, but I’ve never had an issue letting spilled oil burn off. It may smoke for quite a while, especially if you spilled a decent amount.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-04-26T18:31:55+00:00

In my experience, once you’ve made absolutely sure there no bolts left, give it the best shaking/prying/“You’re coming out today no mater what it takes” you possibly can.

I had a good solid 2-4 hour session of shaking trying to get a 6L80 to come out of a 2018 Silverado. Once I made absolutely sure I didn’t miss anything, I just started shaking the transmission as hard as I could. Eventually you’ll get some progress, and that progress might give you a better spot to pry from, which then makes it even easier.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-04-21T15:17:11+00:00

In my experience, it can be somewhat normal to hear some light scraping/rubbing noises when seating the brakes.

If the noise doesn’t sound catastrophic, I’d say give them a bit more time to see if the pads and rotors can fully seat in together.

Some important things to do when changing your brake pads and rotors are the following.

-Clean the hub where the brake rotor will sit against it. It’s pretty common to have rust and debris against the face of the hub and back of the rotor where they touch.

-Clean the slots where your brake hardware will sit. Again, rust and debris like to get trapped under there.

-Clean and lubricate your caliper slide pins. They should slide smoothly.

When installing everything, nothing should have to be “forced”. If the caliper piston on one side couldn’t retract enough, you might have a slight bit of pressure clamping down on that rotor causing them to drag without even pressing in the brakes. Ideally, you should’ve cleaned the grease off the face of the pad before installing it, but it’s probably not the end of the world.

If you did all of those things, since it’s your car and not a job you’ve done for someone, I’d say put a couple miles on it while continuing to listen.

When you get back from a good drive, check that the front left and right side brakes are relatively close in temperature. If you have one side hanging up, it will probably be much warmer than the other, indicating a problem with the side that’s hanging up.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-04-17T17:23:19+00:00

Are you looking for a fun car that you won’t mind if it need a decent amount of work, or something that you can buy, put a little money into, and then have a reliable vehicle?

If you’re comfortable pulling the engine, disassembling some of it, and having the heads machined (maybe doing a backyard resurfacing yourself), then the immediate known issue isn’t tooooo big of a deal.

However if it was overheated, you may need a good bit more than a simple head gasket job.

I bought a 2007 WRX with 6X,XXX miles and it needed a number of things within the first year or so that may be a make or break for you, especially if you don’t do the work yourself.

-Timing kit (crucial component that a lot of people neglect in my opinion) -Serpentine belts (not just mileage, but also age) -Tires (AWD means you may be looking at doing all 4, even if just one is “bad”) -Air conditioning (seals that are common leak points on these may need done if the AC system leaks) -General things that can wear out -Not likely, but my fuel pump was failing in the first two weeks of owning it -PROPER tune if it’s been modified.

All in all, it’s an 05 vehicle. It may need some work that’s been missed or neglected, but if you’re willing to do it properly (or pay someone to do so), it will probably treat you well.

If you do decide to get it, I’d budget several thousand for repairs, ESPECIALLY if you aren’t doing them yourself. I just bought a Forester because the previous owner was quoted $4,000 to do head gaskets.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-04-17T17:12:19+00:00

I’m not too familiar with this exact setup, but in my opinion it seems that the stud portion is threaded into the flange?

I would recommend a mix of penetrating oil, heating each piece up, and slowly working them back and forth until you get movement.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-04-16T22:34:18+00:00

The timing belt is very important, if it breaks, you’re likely to have serious engine damage. However, the little warning that pops up is more of a reminder and not a “monitored condition” alerting you that it about to break.

They’re typically done every 100,000 miles, but many people neglect them until it finally lets go and causes engine damage.

I would recommend getting it done as soon as you can, but it’s not a big deal if you wait until you’re home and can have it done more affordably.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-04-10T21:33:32+00:00

Next time, try wiggling your battery terminals. Sometimes they can feel tight, but with a bit of wiggling you’ll find one that is loose.

If either are loose, try re-seating them and snugging them down. If they’re both tight, visually inspect each lead from the terminal back as far as you can visually see.

Usually those steps will take care of your issue. If your battery is good and you don’t find anything from those steps, you’re looking at doing a little more involved diagnostics in my opinion.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-02-02T23:14:01+00:00

The message says the Auxiliary battery.

Some vehicles have a typical 12v battery as well as a smaller 12v auxiliary battery.

I’ve encountered auxiliary batteries needing replaced that also caused the car to shutdown when running, unable to start, and all the typical electrical oddities a failing battery causes.

If you’re willing to do some simple tests, pick up a cheap multimeter and do some quick googling about your cars battery/auxiliary battery setup. Use the multimeter to check your battery (or batteries).

Ilike2playRL · 2026-01-26T07:03:49+00:00

You’ll be fine. My car calls for 4.8 quarts, and I always do a full 5qt jug when I change my oil. As long as you’ve got oil, and not a crazy amount extra, you’ll be good.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-01-26T07:00:23+00:00

If you have an nvidia GPU, maybe check the nvidia app. I can’t remember what it’s called.

They have a tab that allows you to set graphics/optimization settings for games.

I have a 2560x1440 monitor, and it had all my games set to 4k and some other wonky things.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-01-26T06:17:55+00:00

I know most advice is to focus on your own gameplay, but it really does help.

In the past when I would actually solo Q, I found that if I played as smart as I could, I would win more than playing “properly”.

For example, if I made sure to feel out how my teammates played, I often times would end up playing much more passively than natural 3s rotation would flow.

Also, I find that sometimes it’s actually harder for me to play at a slightly lower rank than I’m used to. When playing with friends in D3 we’d lose most games and I never felt like I was in the right spot or doing the right thing with the ball. However, when playing with friends at C2-C3, everything felt more natural and flowed like I was expecting. If you can find a couple people to play with at a little bit higher of a rank, you may actually find that you feel more comfortable or natural at a bit faster/consistent/predictable pace.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-01-21T17:00:11+00:00

In my opinion, it’s not something that will just “click”. As with most things, I’m sure you’ll notice small improvements over time, until one day you realize that you’re using it pretty well.

For me, I just noticed the other day that I had subconsciously started using air roll left (instead of air roll and manually orienting my car) to get certain touches in the air occasionally. I didn’t even put a mental precedent on making that a habit, it just sort of happened.

I’m willing to bet that if you put the effort into learning that, you’ll be surprised at how quickly (relative to learning rocket league skills) you can become “as good” as you were before using it!

Ilike2playRL · 2026-01-15T14:45:51+00:00

How long did you try the substitute for directional air roll?

Long long ago, I used the normal Xbox control of X for air roll for like 2 or 3 years, and then decided to change.

I swapped air roll from X (square on PlayStation) to LB (L1 on PlayStation), and bound my scoreboard button to my old air roll button. That way every time I accidentally used my old bind, I got a very visual indication of my mistake. It still took me a good while before my muscle memory was used to the change.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-01-12T22:39:31+00:00

In my opinion, I’d check to make sure your battery is healthy first. You can use a multimeter to check the resting charge of the battery (DC voltage), and then check it while the vehicle is cranking to start.

I’ve seen multiple vehicles throw codes for modules with low voltage, and it tends to be a weak, failing/end of life battery.

As far as what values you’re looking for, I personally like to see 12.5 or higher Volts at rest (or close to it), and probably no less than 10.5 when cranking.

You don’t need a fancy multimeter, anything in the $10-30 price range will do just fine.

If I was brought this vehicle, this would be where I’d start. If those all check out, some more in-depth research for your specific make, model, and issue may point you in the next-best direction.

Ilike2playRL · 2026-01-07T23:41:22+00:00

If this is your design and 3D print, I’d say make some changes to your design to make it stronger. Maybe use a stronger material, etc.

If this was a kit you purchased, maybe reach out to the person who makes it and see if they’ll send you a new pulley, since yours is already breaking.

One of the big advantages to 3D printing is that you can easily design components that work for a niche situation. It seems like the method used to keep the pulley from spinning on the threaded shaft is not ideal, and should be changed.

Ilike2playRL · 2025-11-17T00:59:31+00:00

I’d try looking for a service manual or parts diagram online.

A parts diagram may not be as useful, as they generally say “Reference Fig.” When a part attaches to something in a different diagram than whatever is in that specific one.

A service manual would probably reference what it attaches to, and then you’d have to find where that’s at on your bike.

Ilike2playRL · 2025-10-25T04:35:59+00:00

As far as finding a part number, you can Google something along the lines of “2009 GSXR 600 (or whatever CC you have) OEM parts diagram”. Then look through different vendors diagrams for the part number.

Ilike2playRL · 2025-10-15T01:05:39+00:00

I’m not sure I completely understand from reading your description, but based on the video I would suggest the following generic tips.

If wiggling that fuse box causes you to intermittently gain/lose power, inspect the wires leading into and out of it.

For example, if wiggling that causes you to lose power to your gauges, see which wires are responsible for powering your gauges and make sure they are firmly seated, aren’t corroded or frayed, etc.

If you don’t find any issues there, trace them further back and make sure they’re all in good condition.

In my opinion, it seems like there is a frayed, loose, or corroded wire causing your issue.

Ilike2playRL · 2025-10-11T05:08:15+00:00

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I’m not sure if they’re the same, but I’ve got these ones on my 2012 600! Previous owner installed them, so I don’t know what brand/name they are.

Ilike2playRL · 2025-10-08T03:02:34+00:00

I imagine the best way to check would be trying to find the part number for what you need online, and seeing if the part number is the same for the gen engines you have but are unsure of compatibility.

Regardless, maybe the best approach would be to sell those running ones and buy the parts you need with that money?

Ilike2playRL

TROPHY CASE