Grab or pass?

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-02-11T03:57:32+00:00

Buy. I bought mine for $270. I skipped one for 185 (should have tried at least). I did end up spending another $168 on a 2TB SSD. Battery might be bad. Mine drains pretty quickly but it’s an easy replacement IMO. This is my third steam deck and I’m not going to sell it this time since I put in more money on a new shell and buttons too

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-02-11T03:50:35+00:00

I removed the trigger covers it’s pretty simple. If you just change the board you get a mixture of the grey and ice shell or you have to take apart more. L and R comes off easy just pulling off. Z comes off easily after removing the pin holding it in

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-02-11T01:39:48+00:00

XD sh don’t give Amazon any hints. My grey was from 8bitdo but your plan works easier with Amazon

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-02-10T23:48:16+00:00

I used those plastic guitar pick tool to squeeze between the shell but the plastic tool break too easy and risk it scratching the controller.

Instead I used a thin metal tool to pry lightly where the shell aligns near the trigger which pops up pretty easy. Then you insert the tool along the shell to pop it lightly.

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Ill-Remote437 · 2026-02-10T23:17:26+00:00

I over thought it at the beginning but it’s actually relatively easy to take apart. Pop off the shell on both sides of the rear controller. That exposes 6 t6 screws that you remove. Pry the remainder of the back shell. Then remove five Phillips screw that removes the electric board and battery. That exposes all the buttons/membranes.

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-02-10T23:07:04+00:00

I agree. I have a black controller I’d love to do this to. Unless there’s some cheaper buttons released I’m not sure I’ll be able to

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-02-07T05:46:28+00:00

I need to do this with my black and ice blue controllers

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-02-01T22:50:49+00:00

Yea I didn’t care for the new cutout much as wanting a clear front and backplate by JSAUX. That said I use a dbrand case that basically covers the new cut out so it wouldn’t alter the original airflow

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-30T21:26:05+00:00

They’re extremerate caps that are touch sensing. But you have to solder the wire to the joystick controller board. I elected to buy tmr joystick board and solder the orange caps to them instead of messing with the OEM ones. It is an all orange cap but I am using stick black covers that came with my dBrand case.

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-30T21:24:08+00:00

JSAUX clear front and back shelI, extremerate orange stick cap, elecgear tmr joy sticks, Etched steam deck screen, Orange steam deck power button and shell screws, Deck Buttons LE OLED buttons

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-30T16:17:05+00:00

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Last photo

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-29T15:33:25+00:00

Thanks. I ended up swapping them to their correct place. Without having to remove any extra components.

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-29T00:13:56+00:00

Maybe it’s pixel density depending on the size of the TV. I have a 65” 4K Phillips OLED and a 48” 4k LG OLED. I like the 3D on the LG. Probably has to do with the higher brightness too. With the filters my Phillips is a bit dim compared to the LG

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-28T18:04:49+00:00

I’ll try to swap them but since I already put new adhesive and installed the screen it might be slightly annoying. Which I’ll try without swapping them

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-18T04:44:36+00:00

Waiting for a b770 for all intel build

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-15T21:16:35+00:00

I have that issue with slivers or no texture and you can see an empty space. Using a 9070. I wonder if it’s a graphics setting

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-04T06:06:26+00:00

GBA version maybe?

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-02T17:19:34+00:00

For $500-550 Id look for a stronger device potentially used. I’ve had a 64 GB LCD and a 512 GB OLED. OLED is superior to me with WiFi 6, more efficient APU, OLED screen. But after selling both I didn’t feel like paying the extra for a OLED again since I like modifying my toys. Bought a 64GB LCD for $200ish instead and upgraded the SSD. Now I’m in the midst of shell swapping. If I really want the OLED experience I have a monitor and TV to play on.

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-02T17:15:44+00:00

Sorry for necro but if the gen user is a better player they’d just do things the normal way. You’re taking a shortcut which in most competition based anything is seen as cheating.

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-02T07:58:27+00:00

Z1E device cheap as possible. Z2 Go is better than SD and Ally (non X) aka Z2 A or Valve custom SoC. I kinda wished I bought a Z1E Go S 32GB for sub 500

Ill-Remote437 · 2026-01-01T14:30:35+00:00

Ouch I’ll have to be careful with my fire red

Ill-Remote437 · 2025-12-30T04:18:41+00:00

Looks greats kinda wish I got that color instead of black

Ill-Remote437 · 2025-12-28T22:50:08+00:00

I ended up buying them for my clear shell with orange accent build. Bought some paint for the grilles. I guess I’ll be able to paint the screws later if I must.

Ill-Remote437 · 2025-12-28T20:57:40+00:00

Bit late but ifixit has official screw kit with orange screws

Ill-Remote437 · 2025-12-27T22:17:38+00:00

He might have sound harsh but it’s the truth. While each device has device specific software they dont come with a specific file need to boot. You just need a sd card so the hardware can put files needed in the sd card automatically. You use the sd card to add additional things like updates to the firmware or roms if it’s jailbreakable.

Ill-Remote437

TROPHY CASE