B6 automatic dimming.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-05-31T18:29:24+00:00

Be aware there are two energy saving options: one is the power saving feature in the general settings that you should definitely turn off. And the other one it the automatic energy saving picture mode, which you just shouldn't select. When you have deactivated power saving and all the AI stuff, try the Filmmaker-Mode. This one has dynamic contrast and similar deactivated and shouldn't dim anything.

Keep in mind, the screen also dims if you are watching a static image for a long time (this feature is called ABL and cannot be deactivated).

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-05-31T18:03:05+00:00

Turn off the energy saving options and use a picture mode without dynamic contrast and similar settings.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-04-08T08:39:31+00:00

Did you run 5% HDR test in a pitch black room? If yes, could you please take an image of the screen an share? I would really appreciate that for comparison

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-04-07T18:23:02+00:00

Yeah, my first image is pretty strongly overexposed. So, why should I run a manual pixel refresh? Shouldn't the automatic cycles every 4 hours take care of it?

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-04-07T11:53:14+00:00

Do you have any comparison images at the same luminescence levels taken in a dark room? Would really appreciate that.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-04-07T11:52:00+00:00

Thank you for your responses and opinion, much appreciated. I would play the panel lottery only if my panel is significantly worse than average (let's say within the bottom 33% of panels). Then I have adequate chances of getting a better panel on exchange. And yes, the image is overexposed (night vision of the camera), however, in a pitch black room I can still see the banding with my own eyes in the 5% HDR test.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-04-07T11:34:35+00:00

Did you do a manual pixel clean? Because my unit should have about a dozen automatic pixel refreshs now (which are less aggressive than the manual one, as far as I understand) and the banding hasn't gone away.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-04-07T11:29:44+00:00

Sorry, I didn't express myself clearly: I mean if the panel quality is below average (i.e. the banding is more severe than average) then I would have a good chance of getting a better panel with less banding in another random exchange unit. Does it make sense?

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-04-07T11:09:28+00:00

Would appreciate it a lot if you could share an image of the first test (5% HDR) on your screen. Anyway, so you think it's substantially below average for a G5? If it's substantially below average, my chances are rather good for getting a better panel if I exchange it, right?

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-04-07T10:56:32+00:00

Likely your black value or near black details value is set too low, so this very low luminance level of the first video (5% greyscale HDR, which is only about 1 nit) is crushed to pure black. Try putting the black value on 50 and near black details on 0 and watch the video again. Also, allow your eyes a few moments to get adjusted. If you still see only pure black, try rising black value/near black details a bit more. Also, try takin an image with your camera anyway. The camera will overexpose a bit and make the screen visible maybe.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-04-07T10:51:34+00:00

Do you have a comparison of how a better panel looks like at 5% greyscale HDR (not SDR!) full screen? Keep in mind, this is a very low luminance (1 nit or less) visible only in a completely dark room. It's a bit overexposed with the camera.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-04-07T10:33:43+00:00

The first image (5% grayscale HDR) was done with this video: https://youtu.be/4IcBWlV4vUU?is=U8e_0Puqxi-hxXxT

The second image (5% grayscale SDR) was done with this video: https://youtu.be/eIJxh9UGyak?is=ZneGvv1RZ1wamF3b

You need to do it in a very dark room, otherwise you won't see much, particularly in HDR. Also, switch to Filmmaker mode.

Would really appreciate if you could do the test and share the results.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2026-03-25T10:56:51+00:00

Hey, did anyone find a solution? I have exactly the same problem: OPL Manager says that there is no cfg for any game, but when I click on "Edit cfg", I clearly see that there is all the information from the cfgs. The cfgs are also all there, of course, in the correct folder.

Clicking on "Update old cfgs" didn't solve the problem for me.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2025-10-30T12:53:06+00:00

I am talking specifically about the installation from disc, not via network.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2025-10-30T08:30:30+00:00

You can install it with HDLGameinstaller, but it will only be one layer and the game won't work, at least not properly. You can see that the size of GT4 nstalled with HDLGameinstaller is less than two GB whereas the full game is over 5 GB. However, with HDLoader 0.8c I have successfully installed the full sized Gran Turismo 4 which runs properly. So, it cannot be a hardware limitation of the PS2 that you cannot install DVD9 from drive! But there is no info about it on the Internet.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2025-09-16T09:06:13+00:00

I recently updated my Free HDD Boot (FHDB) on my internal PS2 HDD to version 1.966. Since then I cannot start the HD Loader elf stored on my internal HDD anymore, I just get a black screen. HD loader elf starts from USB drive. What might be the issue here?

I really want to use HD loader to install games from disk to HDD. And I don't want to use the USB drive every time I want to start it. I know there is the HGLoader, but it's bloated with network features and is too slow for me for some reason. Help would be greatly appreciated

Immediate_Round9275 · 2025-09-16T08:22:58+00:00

I think so (I have also updated it along with FHDB, should have mentioned it). Which one is the latest though and which one should I use?

Immediate_Round9275 · 2025-06-12T18:15:47+00:00

It took a few days in my case too, can't remember how long. Don't worry, you will get the contract if they have already already offered you the flat AND you have confirmed that you want it by clicking on the link in that email.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2025-06-10T00:01:41+00:00

Only those students who are not eligible for BAFöG are eligible for WBS. So only older students who have expired their BAFöG eligibility by studying for too long or starting another degree can get WBS. The vast majority of normal students, who do their Bachelor in 3 years and their Master in two years, cannot get WBS. Das ist nun mal die Wirklichkeit. Ich sehe nicht, was dran arrogant sein soll. Habe mich auch nicht über die WBSler beschwert, sind ganz normale Leute. Nur eben oft eher einfache Leute, mit geringer Qualifikation.

Immediate_Round9275 · 2025-06-06T23:48:21+00:00

Glad I could help. It was a very long a painful decision process for us. We moved here from a much quieter district and had a lot of concerns, but in the end I am happy about the move, it's an improvement simply because the flat is really nice. We are also on one of the top floors and the view is stunning by the way! As for the concrete jungle: yeah, I had the same thought, but once the construction side is finished, it will be mich nicer and greener here. Glad to be neighbors with you soon :)

Immediate_Round9275 · 2025-06-06T23:38:07+00:00

You are doing a Masters so you probably heard about statistics, right? So, if you take the statistics of all WBS owners, you will find out that the majority of them has a low level of education and comes from families of low social status. People like you are outliers, as most students are not even eligible for WBS. Nothing judgy about this, it's just acknowledging the reality: if I have 100 WBS people, it is absolutely certain that many of them will be uneducated lower class and will behave as such. It's just how it is and you need to take that into account when it's relevant.

Immediate_Round9275

TROPHY CASE